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Newbie Here -- Determining height from bottom shelf

I've had a medium BGE for about 6-7 years now.  Every once in a while it's just not big enough, so I just bought the large.  I'm making a table for it.  The majority of the table will be Trex composite lumber (it's what my deck is made of, and I have left over lumber). 

My question is this, the dimension ("A") given in the BGE Large Egg plans from the top of the top shelf to the top of the bottom shelf is 15".  I'm planning on resting the BGE directly on 3 pavers that are 1" thick.  Do I subtract the 1" from the 15"?

Thanks

Comments

  • jtcBoynton
    jtcBoynton Posts: 2,814
    You really need an air gap between the egg and what is below. The air gap is far more important than pavers in terms of fire safety.
    Southeast Florida - LBGE
    In cooking, often we implement steps for which we have no explanations other than ‘that’s what everybody else does’ or ‘that’s what I have been told.’  Dare to think for yourself.
     
  • Oh, there will be an airgap.  The BGE will sit on three pavers, there will be three gaps, per this picture:


  • jtcBoynton
    jtcBoynton Posts: 2,814
    Since you are still planning the table, I would recommend using a table nest setting on a layer of fire bricks (or pavers). This will provide a lot more protection. The table nest provides a 2" air gap and little heat transmitted through the metal legs. 



    Southeast Florida - LBGE
    In cooking, often we implement steps for which we have no explanations other than ‘that’s what everybody else does’ or ‘that’s what I have been told.’  Dare to think for yourself.
     
  • The question remains though, do I subtract the brinks and nest from the recommended 15"?

    Thanks
  • grege345
    grege345 Posts: 3,515
    You would add an inch for the bricks wouldn't you?  Account for the handle to be at about belt height I think my shelf is 17" below top but I wanted the egg sort of recessed. I also had to cut out for hinge. Easier to add/adjust height (tile,extra brick etc.) beneath egg after the fact. Otherwise you have to drop the shelf post construction if you don't like it. 
    LBGE& SBGE———————————————•———————– Pennsylvania / poconos

  • cook861
    cook861 Posts: 872
    Welcome we like to see pictures of your cooks
    Trenton ON 1 mbge for now
  • Tspud1
    Tspud1 Posts: 1,514
    Each time you raise the egg up, it will stick that much further out above the table top unless you put a notch behind egg for the hinge to drop down into.
  • Tspud1 said:
    Each time you raise the egg up, it will stick that much further out above the table top unless you put a notch behind egg for the hinge to drop down into.
    So, I want to get this right before I start cutting.  If the plans call for 15" between the top of the "shelf" and the top of the table.  If I allow an inch clearance on the bottom, I subtract that from the 15", but I shouldn't have to cut a notch, should I?  =8-\
  • Tspud1
    Tspud1 Posts: 1,514
    In this picture, it is 17.25" from bottom shelf to table top, that includes the small platform under egg. See how much lower the egg sits with a notch behind egg.
  • KennyLee
    KennyLee Posts: 806
    edited April 2015

    Since you will have 3" of pavers under your Egg (if I am reading this right), you can add that much to your shelf depth.  I would recommend 17", giving you an inch of leeway for hinge clearance on top. 

    I've built several tables for a large assuming a 2" paver/table nest underneath and always go with 16" shelf depth.  Works perfectly with a little extra.

    And no need for a table nest at all with your setup.

    *Edit.....after looking again, you may only have 1" under your Egg (three 1" thick pavers all around?).  In that case, I'd go with the standard 15" depth.  That will give you a little added clearance on top.  You can measure your legs and ultimate height accordingly.

    LBGE

    Cedar table w/granite top

    Ceramic Grillworks two-tier swing rack

    Perpetual cooler of ice-cold beer