Problem with my 15year old Big Green Egg I can’t figure out

okesmokie

I think the ring mechanism is worn out. I have tried every thing to get it adjusted so the top part of the green egg will set down on the bottom. Its so bad the fire has to burn its self out before it will cool down. Replaced the Rutland Gasket about a year ago and its still in good shape and it seemed to be OK then. You guys with an old green egg ever had this problem with the ring mechanism?

Scottborasjr

I would guess it's time to replace the band's and the hinge mechanism if it has never been done before. Without a picture though that's just a guess.

RRP

okesmokie said:

I think the ring mechanism is worn out. I have tried every thing to get it adjusted so the top part of the green egg will set down on the bottom. Its so bad the fire has to burn its self out before it will cool down. Replaced the Rutland Gasket about a year ago and its still in good shape and it seemed to be OK then. You guys with an old green egg ever had this problem with the ring mechanism?

I upgraded my 15 year old Large with the spring assist band when they first came out years go. You will be so happy you did too! Not sure what they sell for nowadays - think I paid $65 back then.

RRP

The only problem you will have is if your egg is in a table. With the "new" hinge then when open the back takes up more space. I solved by raising my egg yet one more stepping stone, plus I had to cut a notch in my take top.

okesmokie

RRP said:

okesmokie said:

I think the ring mechanism is worn out. I have tried every thing to get it adjusted so the top part of the green egg will set down on the bottom. Its so bad the fire has to burn its self out before it will cool down. Replaced the Rutland Gasket about a year ago and its still in good shape and it seemed to be OK then. You guys with an old green egg ever had this problem with the ring mechanism?

I upgraded my 15 year old Large with the spring assist band when they first came out years go. You will be so happy you did too! Not sure what they sell for nowadays - think I paid $65 back then.

RRP this is off the subject but i bought that gasket form you and at that time you told me you didn't think i needed a top gasket as long as the top was clean. do you still hold to that?

okesmokie

okesmokie said:

RRP said:

okesmokie said:

I think the ring mechanism is worn out. I have tried every thing to get it adjusted so the top part of the green egg will set down on the bottom. Its so bad the fire has to burn its self out before it will cool down. Replaced the Rutland Gasket about a year ago and its still in good shape and it seemed to be OK then. You guys with an old green egg ever had this problem with the ring mechanism?

I upgraded my 15 year old Large with the spring assist band when they first came out years go. You will be so happy you did too! Not sure what they sell for nowadays - think I paid $65 back then.

RRP this is off the subject but i bought that gasket form you and at that time you told me you didn't think i needed a top gasket as long as the top was clean. do you still hold to that?

The gasket is certainly not the problem. i can get down and look and there is a eigth of an inch between the top and the bottom. i have spent hours trying to get that thin adjusted and the thought hit me the thing could be worn out but i ask my self i don't see how as sturdy as they make those things

fiver29

If the hinge is making it look like this in this video follow their directions to fix it.  If it is just completely worn out its probably time to replace it.

If you think its the gasket search you tube for big green egg gasket and you will find lots of videos showing step by step how to replace it.  I would do both the top and bottom.  Not just one side.  But that's just me.

If you do have to replace the hinge I'd also replace both gaskets since you will have it all apart anyways.  Again, just me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71Jplxn4yAg

RRP

okesmokie said:

RRP this is off the subject but i bought that gasket form you and at that time you told me you didn't think i needed a top gasket as long as the top was clean. do you still hold to that?

Yes- when properly applied then the Rutland is thick and only one side is needed - in fact I don't even recommend both sides!

As for adjusting here is my solution:

First carefully remove both springs from the hinge. That is easier to do when they are relaxed in the open position.

Next loosen all the nuts in the hinge and the two bent bolts in the band - so the bands are free to move easily. Now line up the edges to your satisfaction. Now here is a tricky part....maybe a child or wife can help you...place a 2 x 4 on the dome opening and exert strong constant pressure on it pressing the dome firmly against the base. I did this myself using two 4 foot long wood working clamps. Or another method is have your son sit on a board on the dome! While you re-tighten  first the band bolts and then all the hinge bolts. Replace springs. That should resolve your issue....however...

Are you familiar with the popular dollar bill test? Close your dome on a dollar bill and see if it is relatively difficult to pull out. Do this all the way around your dome. If you find a space of little resistance it actually will be a sizable space and will either be at the front or the back. If loose in the front then open the dome and based on how big you think the gap is in terms of the thickness of a 25 cent piece then place 1, 2 or 3 quarters stacked on the edge of your base. Now close your dome and carefully loosen the top band bolt, press down to reset the positioning and tighten. Remove quarters and your plane should be ok. I have only known one person needing 3 quarters 2 is most common.

jtcBoynton

The old hinge system does not have the ability to be adjusted as much as the new. The hinge is fixed to the bands. The front of the bands have a peg that fits in a hole on the ceramic - thus fixing their placement. 

noregard

That's old school cool!  I've never seen that before.

Zmokin

jtcBoynton said:

The old hinge system does not have the ability to be adjusted as much as the new. The hinge is fixed to the bands. The front of the bands have a peg that fits in a hole on the ceramic - thus fixing their placement. 

Well, with that style hinge it looks like the back is fine alignment and I don't see how you can have an underbite over bite problem.  Does your lid sit to one side or the other?  I would try the dollar-bill test if your lid alignment looks good. How are you shutting your egg down?  With the ceramic cap or other.

You might want to fire up the egg, throw some wood on, to get lots of white smoke going, and then shut it down.  Then look to see where the smoke is leaking from.  Maybe your bottom vent hasn't gotten sloppy and let's in too much air, and you still have air leakage from either the cap or the gasket, but the smoke should show you where.

Have you tried lubricating your hinge?  Maybe it is binding and not letting the lid go all of the way down on the front.

jtcBoynton

noregard said:

That's old school cool!  I've never seen that before.

You may also be interested in the side hinges - old school suitcase hinges. The system allows for a lot of play left to right when opening and closing the top. Front to back is solid. 

Zmokin

jtcBoynton said:

noregard said:

That's old school cool!  I've never seen that before.

You may also be interested in the side hinges - old school suitcase hinges. The system allows for a lot of play left to right when opening and closing the top. Front to back is solid. 

This pic combined with your other pic looks like alignment isn't bad.  But with all of that rust I see at the hinges, I would start by lubricating the areas of movement.

4Runner

That is cool.....now if BGE will reengineer the current hinge and make it old school they might just solve the alignment issue for good.

Zmokin

4Runner said:

That is cool.....now if BGE will reengineer the current hinge and make it old school they might just solve the alignment issue for good.

Well, you do realize that the old hinge did not help lift the lid, lid opening assist is by Arm Strong only.  The new hinge works like the hood on older cars where there is a spring assist so you aren't lifting the entire weight of the top, the spring is doing a large part of the work for you.  Personally, I prefer the new hinge and if mine loses alignment someday and I can't get it to comeback, I'll gladly fork out the cash for a replacement hinge and bands.

RRP

4Runner said:

That is cool.....now if BGE will reengineer the current hinge and make it old school they might just solve the alignment issue for good.

Having lived thru those old scissor hinges then I would never want to go back to those days and that design. On my small I went through 3 sets of those bands since the the scissors were attached to the bands using small flush mounted rivets which had a history of breaking. In addition propping open and then collapsing that style was a PIA! In spite of the spring hinge issues I'm sold on the style.

BTW after the scissor came the locking lever band and if someone tried to close it without unlocking and just tried to force it closed then the dome might fall out, or the band would bend and be ruined or both! No...trust me the spring hinge is still better!