Welcome to the EGGhead Forum - a great place to visit and packed with tips and EGGspert advice! You can also join the conversation and get more information and amazing kamado recipes by following Big Green Egg to Experience our World of Flavor™ at:
Want to see how the EGG is made? Click to Watch
Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | Pinterest | Youtube | Vimeo
Share your photos by tagging us and using the hashtag #BigGreenEgg.
Share your photos by tagging us and using the hashtag #BigGreenEgg.
Want to see how the EGG is made? Click to Watch
Rutland Question
When you install the Rutland gasket do you guys leave the dome open till the RTV sets? I'm thinkin (that's bad for me to try) that if you close the dome that it will want to slide the gasket.
Thanks.
Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution...
Large & Small BGE
Stockton Ca.
Comments
-
You have to remove the dome and the bands to strip the old gaskets and install the Rutland. I let it set for a minimum of 24 hours (depending on temp) before re-installing the dome.
Mike
I'm ashamed what I did for a Klondike Bar!!
Omaha, NE -
I installed my rutland gasket two years ago and did not have to remove the dome. As long as you can COMPLETLEY clean the surface, there is room to apply the Copper Permatex you should have no problem. Mine is on the bottom. This is a good time to check proper closing clearences between the dome and the bottom surface of your egg. You don't want that area back near the hinge to hit the new gasket first, because it will eventually grind or rub it's way thru the new gasket. And this is common anytime the bands move, and they will loosen up as the egg gets hot, then cold!! Check the closing sequence from the side of your egg to determine that the two surfaces are hitting at the same time... It not you might have to loosen the bands and raise of lower each piece before re-tightening..
-
Charlie tuna said:I installed my rutland gasket two years ago and did not have to remove the dome. As long as you can COMPLETLEY clean the surface, there is room to apply the Copper Permatex you should have no problem. Mine is on the bottom. This is a good time to check proper closing clearences between the dome and the bottom surface of your egg. You don't want that area back near the hinge to hit the new gasket first, because it will eventually grind or rub it's way thru the new gasket. And this is common anytime the bands move, and they will loosen up as the egg gets hot, then cold!! Check the closing sequence from the side of your egg to determine that the two surfaces are hitting at the same time... It not you might have to loosen the bands and raise of lower each piece before re-tightening..
Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution...
Large & Small BGE
Stockton Ca.
-
Hey @bud812 where did you get the rutland? From the guy on the other thread? Thinking it might be time for a new XL gasket.B_BFinally back in the Badger State!
Middleton, WI -
Don't know about the other guy, but you can get them for $9.99 shipped on Amazon.Black_Badger said:Hey @bud812 where did you get the rutland? From the guy on the other thread? Thinking it might be time for a new XL gasket.
B_B
Just a hack that makes some $hitty BBQ.... -
I bought mine from RRP on the other forum. Good guy and fellow egger. Between gasket , copper sealer, and the 3m brush less than $25. Follwed the directions on the Naked whiz size worked like a charm.
-
bud812 said:
do you guys leave the dome open till the RTV sets?
I have an XL, so removing the dome is simple and the way to go as it's so much easier to clean the lid rim when it's off. Hear it's harder with other sizes.I waited 2 hours after I applied the gasket and then gently laid the lid back on to cure for the night. Reattached and tightened everything the next day. Worked well.Got my Rutland from RRP, the only way to go if you have an XL. The kits you can buy at hardware stores and online aren't long enough for an XL.Packerland, Wisconsin -
@ChokeOnSmoke This is RTV: http://amzn.com/B0002UEN1AIt is a high-temp silicon sealant that is "normally" used on engines.LBGE with a massive wish listAthens, Ga.
-
dpittard said:@ChokeOnSmoke This is RTV: http://amzn.com/B0002UEN1AIt is a high-temp silicon sealant that is "normally" used on engines.Packerland, Wisconsin
-
Ah. Ok. I'm no expert, but from my experience and reading tons of posts over the years, I'd spring for a $6 tube of Permatex Ultra Copper. It's proven.ChokeOnSmoke said:dpittard said:@ChokeOnSmoke This is RTV: http://amzn.com/B0002UEN1AIt is a high-temp silicon sealant that is "normally" used on engines.
They're both RTV.
RTV is Room Temperature Vulcanizing silicone.
Look at the label on Ultra Copper and you will see the acronym RTV too.
I do agree with you though, Ultra Copper is the way to go. I have two tubes of it for my large and small. Prolly too much but 3oz didn't seem like much when I bought it the other day. LolJust a hack that makes some $hitty BBQ.... -
cazzy said:They're both RTV. RTV is Room Temperature Vulcanizing silicone.Packerland, Wisconsin
-
And RTVs do not have to sit all day long or two days or a week to cure. They do their biz very soon. No need to remove the dome and the drama. Seriously, this is what is used for gaskets in cars, airplanes in the engine. There is no real cure time there.
______________________________________________
Large and Small BGE, Blackstone 36 and a baby black Kub.
Chattanooga, TN.
Categories
- All Categories
- 183.2K EggHead Forum
- 15.8K Forum List
- 460 EGGtoberfest
- 1.9K Forum Feedback
- 10.4K Off Topic
- 2.2K EGG Table Forum
- 1 Rules & Disclaimer
- 9K Cookbook
- 12 Valentines Day
- 91 Holiday Recipes
- 223 Appetizers
- 517 Baking
- 2.5K Beef
- 88 Desserts
- 167 Lamb
- 2.4K Pork
- 1.5K Poultry
- 32 Salads and Dressings
- 320 Sauces, Rubs, Marinades
- 544 Seafood
- 175 Sides
- 121 Soups, Stews, Chilis
- 38 Vegetarian
- 102 Vegetables
- 315 Health
- 293 Weight Loss Forum