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First post...gasket install....
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55drum
Posts: 162
Been lurking for years on this great site and decided to share my latest attempt on a gasket installation.
Like most of you, I burned my original within a short period after purchasing an XL egg. Dealer of course gave me a new one but I was already aware of the problem with the factory gasket thru this forum and never installed it. Instead I went with a Rutland gasket and used a couple of different adhesives which worked ok for a while but required spot repairs every so often.
I finally reached the point where a complete redo on the gasket was necessary..even though the Rutland was still serviceable...I decided to start from scratch with a new one only this time I would try adhering the gasket to steel as recommended by Rutland.
The rim of the egg measured 1" wide with a 26.5" outside diameter...I don't have the tools to cut a sheet of steel for this purpose so I went to a local metal shop and had them cut it out of 1/8" stock....charged me $52.00 but it fit perfectly
I then layed out the retaining tab locations..didn't want any interference from the hinge assembly..
I next cut the the tabs out and MIG welded them to the ring (the tab length can be anywhere from 3/4" to whatever)
After welding..I broke out the grinder to take the ring down to bare metal per Rutlands instructions and began applying the adhesive and gasket...when I got to the ends of the gasket..I gobbed some extra adhesive to the gasket.
The final product fit real snug..
I've only had about 4 or 5 cooks on it so I don't know how this will work long term...but next time I need to do some maintenance on the gasket...I can lift the whole assembly off the egg to do whatever....GL
Like most of you, I burned my original within a short period after purchasing an XL egg. Dealer of course gave me a new one but I was already aware of the problem with the factory gasket thru this forum and never installed it. Instead I went with a Rutland gasket and used a couple of different adhesives which worked ok for a while but required spot repairs every so often.
I finally reached the point where a complete redo on the gasket was necessary..even though the Rutland was still serviceable...I decided to start from scratch with a new one only this time I would try adhering the gasket to steel as recommended by Rutland.
The rim of the egg measured 1" wide with a 26.5" outside diameter...I don't have the tools to cut a sheet of steel for this purpose so I went to a local metal shop and had them cut it out of 1/8" stock....charged me $52.00 but it fit perfectly
I then layed out the retaining tab locations..didn't want any interference from the hinge assembly..
I next cut the the tabs out and MIG welded them to the ring (the tab length can be anywhere from 3/4" to whatever)
After welding..I broke out the grinder to take the ring down to bare metal per Rutlands instructions and began applying the adhesive and gasket...when I got to the ends of the gasket..I gobbed some extra adhesive to the gasket.
The final product fit real snug..
I've only had about 4 or 5 cooks on it so I don't know how this will work long term...but next time I need to do some maintenance on the gasket...I can lift the whole assembly off the egg to do whatever....GL
Comments
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The gasket on an Egg serves two purposes.
One as a cushion between ceramic pieces (base and dome)
and the second to create an air tight seal between the molded imperfections in the base and dome.
Now you have metal “on” ceramic and “no” seal between your ring and the Egg base.
Your bottom photo looks like an air leak nightmare not to mention bare metal rust.
I give you huge credit for money spent, your labor and originality.Thank you,DarianGalveston Texas -
I second what Darian said. I'll remember this thread though as the Rutland on steroids!Re-gasketing America one yard at a time.
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Very cool design, you should post more often.
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Cool concept.
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I have found the Rutland cement to be less then effective. I have also found high temp silicone holds the gasket like a vise and never lets go.
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Now you have metal “on” ceramic and “no” seal between your ring and the Egg base.
Your bottom photo looks like an air leak nightmare not to mention bare metal rust.
Appreciate your comments...I should've explained better
Rust....amount of smoke,grease,soot generated in my cooking will probably keep the rust away and its under a roof...... I could always remove the ring and with a little sanding..paint it with heat resistant paint if need be
Cushion...don't see the concern here...physics of closing the lid are still absorbed by the gasket...the ring doesn't move or slide around at all
Leaks....yes..that is a big air hole...but the weight of the lid flattens the steel back down and seals it..
But you made me think (something I don't like to do) ....I see no reason why I couldn't remove the ring...flip it upside down and install another gasket to it ....this would provide additional cushioning and probably a true airtight seal... -
I have found the Rutland cement to be less then effective.
I agree....hoping that sticking it to steel vs ceramic will hold up better... -
Problem is the Rutland is a latex product and the water in it CAN wick into the pores of the ceramic before setting up properly, whereas that obviously isn't the problem adhering to metal.Re-gasketing America one yard at a time.
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Welcome to the forum!! Nice pics too!
While I admire your ingenuity, I guess I don't understand the "why" of this. I installed a Rutland gasket in November '09 and, other than some smoke, charcoal dust and a few food dripping stains, it looks like it did the day I put it on. Adhesive was Permatex UltraCopper and it hasn't budged. Took about 10 minutes to install. Good seal, good cushion, durable. Cost was about $10. If it ever DOES need replacement, I will do the same thing again. Just my 2¢.I hate it when I go to the kitchen for food and all I find are ingredients!
MichaelCentral Connecticut -
I'd say adding yet another layer may lead to alignment issues due to thickness. OTOH how about just a thin bead or two of Permatex on the bottom of your metal ring. That would work. BTW I'm jealous that your base is that flat and perfect that a metal band makes perfect contact 360°! :laugh:Re-gasketing America one yard at a time.
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I used the high temp silicone per RRP as well.
Worked great.
Was also thinking that "if" I ever needed to replace gastet the silicone material could be cut with a sharp blade run along the base. No need to grind or sand. This would be a real bonus.Thank you,DarianGalveston Texas -
So...you don't work for the State, Government or Military. :woohoo:
Permatex UltraCopper is good stuffff.Thank you,DarianGalveston Texas -
I was thinking that as well, but I didn't mention it because I didn't want to discourage you.
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55drum, Very interesting gasket application. Tim
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What if he apples the gasket adhesive you prefer to both sides of the steel ring omitting the rutland gasket. :ermm:
I am worried about getting the correct dome to base alignment needed. Nothing wrong with trying it out. Worse case is starting all over right? -
sure - but in that case both sides should be the more giving Permatex. I'm afraid the Rutland adhesive by itslf would be too brittle when hard and dry.Re-gasketing America one yard at a time.
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Well this fix lasted for one year averaging at least three cooks a week...last night removed the old gasket and wiped it down with acetone....palm sanded the steel ring and wiped it down as well....then attached the old gasket only this time using "Furnace Cement" by Rutland.....time will tell.
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Well this fix lasted for one year...
Any reason your not using Permatex Ultra Copper as the adhesive?
Packerland, Wisconsin -
I had planned on trying the Ultra Copper until I spotted the Furnace Cement...if I have another failure that will be my next choice for sure....
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Keep us updated, interested to see how it turns out and lasts...
Packerland, Wisconsin
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