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First time post...and my table

Way Down South in Dixie
edited November -1 in EGG Table Forum
Below are photos of my table for the Large BGE. Sorry for the quality...they're from my blackberry. It's made of cypress 4x4 legs, 2x4 frame, and 1x4 decking with stainless screws. It's based off the Naked Whiz plans with a few mods. The brick base is made of Rutland fire bricks. If anyone would like the plans, I can pdf them and send them to ya.

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Comments

  • Gadfly
    Gadfly Posts: 121
    I am interested in your plans. In particular I like to see how you supported the fire bricks. (I was thinking of having a 1x4 in the middle of each brick in addition to the supports on both ends). Assuming this is a "new" large BGE (spring hing), what is exact distance from the top of the fire bricks (or is that a stone there?) to the top of the table?
  • Sure...I'll try to remember to post them tomorrow, but i just cross-membered 2x4's to support the bricks on the edges and in the centers. I'm sure it's way overdesigned, but I wanted to be comfortable with it holding. At first, I had them lowered so that they were flush with the decking, but somehow i screwed up my measuring when I added the top frame and raised them back up. The bricks are 1 1/4" thick, so they stick up 1/2" higher than the decking. In the end, the measurement from the top of the bricks to the top of the upper frame decking is 15" and with the feet, it's roughly 15 3/4". Here are a few more pics of the construction so you can see how I did it.

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  • Gadfly
    Gadfly Posts: 121
    Thanks! This looks like very much the way I was about to do it. Actually I was going to use one cross member for each brick's end (instead of sharing one for two bricks ends). Partially because I was going to use Naked Whiz option "B" which does not restricts the brick movement as option "A" (yours) does and I was worried 1/2" support might not be good enough.

    I see that you are lowering the cross bars to make the top of the bricks even with the bottom shelf. I thought about doing the same but in my case it means cutting 1/4" off the top of the front beam (again because of using option "B").

    On the other hand if I use the ceramic feet, maybe I get enough clearance for cleaning and I can go with plan A as you have.

    As for over-engineering, I am in the same boat. Software engineering habits die hard!
  • Haha...yeah, I'm an engineer as well, and you're right. Anyways, send me your email address, and I'll send you what I have drawn up, or if you have microstation or autocadd access, I can just send you the raw file. Just let me know.
  • Gadfly
    Gadfly Posts: 121
    I sent you Email (using the "send mail" option on your profile). Hopefully you got it by now.
  • chumdog
    chumdog Posts: 39
    can you email me the pdf of yoiur plans please?
  • Shoot me a message on here with your email address, and I'll send them on to you. I don't have a website to host the file on and I'll be glad to forward them on to you.
  • I like this table and am building one on saturday. so could I get the plans and material used in this work of art if you dont mind. :)
  • NC-CDN
    NC-CDN Posts: 703
    pro golfer wrote:
    I like this table and am building one on saturday. so could I get the plans and material used in this work of art if you dont mind. :)

    I think he based his off of The Naked Whiz's site.

    http://www.nakedwhiz.com/ceramicbuild.htm

    I have to make a new one one of these days. Just need to find some time and make room in my garage.
  • pattikake
    pattikake Posts: 1,175
    Nice Table, Welcome to the forum. Been trying to get a table built but they want $800.00 to 1,000 to build one if I could I would build one. But I guess I have to wait.

    Patti
    Wichita, KS
  • jls50
    jls50 Posts: 35
    Very nice. Could you send me your PDF plans.

    thanks



    shinliver@yahoo.com