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Spring hinge just installed

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sdbelt
sdbelt Posts: 267
edited November -1 in EggHead Forum
image-display?photo_id=601673&size=md
<p />Tonight I installed the new BGE spring hinge on my Large. If you don't much care for all my dribble-drabble, but want to see the pics, here's a link:[p] Hinge pictures[p]As you can see from the parts picture, the spring hinge has the springs already assembled. That was nice, as I had wondered how the consumer was expected to do that step.[p]Once installed, the dome does lift up much easier, particularly after the first 6" of travel. The dome seems to open wider than before, which is also nice. The last 6" of travel are the zone in which the dome will not fall down, but will rest open. I wanted to know how much leeway there was at the top, so I measured it. Now I know, and plan on simply pushing it all of the way back. Just before the safe zone, the dome will slowly fall down, until it gets to that last 6", in which I imagine it would crash down rather nicely. (I didn't test that ;-)[p]Compared to the auto-lock band, this band is a bit harder to install. There are 6 bolts, where before there were only 2. At first I wondered why there were more bolts, but as I tightened the two tension bolts, I may have discovered the reason. When the band is loose, the bolts on the side opposite the tension bolts create a pivot point in the upper band, and you can really feel the band moving, before the hinge begins to move. Even when the band was pretty tight, I could still feel this coming from the left. It wasn't until I had it fully tightened did that sensation of the band pivoting at those bolts, go away. It seems this may give some comfort to those that have had band loosening problems (though I never have). I can't speak for BGE and why they chose to add these bolts (manufacturing cost perhaps?) but if nothing else, it has this positive side effect. Another change I like is that the tensioning carriage bolt is now just that...a carriage bolt. It's no longer a phillips head. It locks into place in a square whole on the hinge, so that tightening the tension bolts only needs one tool.[p]I chose to install the band upside down. Presumably this will accomodate my table (which will be completed some day). The only impact I could find by doing this, is that the BGE logo, now stamped on the wooden handle is upside-down. I took a picture of it before flipping it over, which was accomplished quite easily with a phillips screwdriver.[p]Aside from the phillips, a 7/16 ratchet/wrench and something to cut the zip ties (I used dikes) are the only tools needed. [p]The only negative thing I can really draw from this new hinge, is that it might be a pain in the rear to re-install, given the spring loaded hinge. The final step was to remove some zip ties that keep the hinge from alwyas being sprung open open during assembly. So if we ever need to re-install the hinge, we'll have to do something similar (like zip tie it shut again...not real hard.)[p]So I like this new band. After only having it installed for 45 minutes I'm not fully comfortable with it, but like the auto-lock, I assume I'll gain more comfort with successful usage over time.[p]Hmmm, I may just have to cook lunch for myself tomorrow.[p]Enjoy![p]--sdb
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  • YB
    YB Posts: 3,861
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    sdbelt,
    Nice pictures and description of the installation of the spring loaded hinge...I have had mine for about a month and love it...I can't hardly wait it get one for my small and medium eggs... Steve take the two screws out and turn the wooden handle over and the BGE logo will look right.
    Larry
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  • sdbelt
    sdbelt Posts: 267
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    YB,[p]Already flipped over...just thought the picture might be amusing.[p]See ya,[p]--sdb
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  • elFloyd
    elFloyd Posts: 50
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    sdbelt,[p]Does the hinge kit include upper/lower bands all the way around? My BGE has the original, non-locking bands. These are bolted together at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'cloce positions, where it looks like your new hinge is bolted at the 2 o'clock and 10 o'clock positions.[p]I would hate the idea of upgrading to the auto-hinge before I could upgrade to the spring hinge.[p]Cheers

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  • sdbelt
    sdbelt Posts: 267
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    elFloyd,[p]Yes, you get both of the bands necessary. There wasn't anything I reused from the "old" auto-locking hinge.[p]--sdb
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  • Bamabob
    Bamabob Posts: 246
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    sdbelt,
    The new hinge looks real good.Thanks for the upside down idea,I was trying to figure how I was going to change the height on the tables I build to accomidate the extra hinge area.BTW Jim in Atlanta BGE said the band is made in 4 pieces so they can pack the hinge inside new EGGs and not have to ship them in separate boxes.Good Cookin' Bob
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  • sdbelt
    sdbelt Posts: 267
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    Bamabob,[p]I knew there was some other reason. Still, I like this side effect.[p]Thanks![p]--sdb
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  • Smoke-N-Smirk!
    Smoke-N-Smirk! Posts: 63
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    sdbelt, Cool!, Where do I get one and how much?

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  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 25,898
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    sdbelt, don't I already detect rust on those springs??? If so that may be a real Archilles heel in the future! Springs subject to rust will break and what happens to your dome then? Also contrary to popular belief all springs aren't created equal - just finding the same length one at the hardware store doesn't mean the tension will be the same. Any other opinions out there?

    Re-gasketing America one yard at a time.
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  • Marv
    Marv Posts: 177
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    RRP, Great thought, maybe BGE will sell extra springs for the.....just incase needed time[p]Marv

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  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 25,898
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    Marv, yup! Replacement springs on the same shelf as the replacement felt gaskets next to the replacements for the plastic faced thermometers! Do I see a pattern here?

    Re-gasketing America one yard at a time.
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  • Marv
    Marv Posts: 177
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    RRP, We hope not, but does make us wonder doesn't it?[p]Marv

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  • sdbelt
    sdbelt Posts: 267
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    RRP,[p]The springs are made from a different material than everything else. They sorta have a bronzy/brassy color to them, with a bit of a luster. So that's why they look like they might be rusted, but they are not.[p]And I agree, material type and thickness, length, and number of windings all go into defining a spring, and getting a replacement for these would appear to be a challenge locally. Somehow, I suspect it's a non-issue for me, since Phoenix is generally a metal friendly climate (not much rust around here).[p]Good eyes! I'm going to go flip the hinge now...[p]--sdb
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  • Mop
    Mop Posts: 496
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    sdbelt,yes, 'wire diameter, wire hardness as well as the number of 'coils' do play a part as to the life of a spring but first and foremost the spring should be properly spec'd out for the particular application.[p]I`m curuios as to the parameters that were required and what testing was performed to come to decide on that particular spring....[p]I also think there should be some sort of a spring guard or sheild for WHEN the springs break, no doubt it will be the lower coil that breaks to allow the rest of the spring to fly upwards.[p]If and when I decide to splurge on that band type, I`ll connect little 'tether' cables to the lower section of the springs so I don`t end up taking on in the head for bge....[p]
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  • Unknown
    Unknown
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    RRP,[p]You forgot about the replacement lid...

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  • hammerg26
    hammerg26 Posts: 8
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    Do they sell the springs separately, or do you have to buy the entire ring?

    Hammer
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