Another table question

Mayberry Smoker · September 2007

Thanks for the answers to my previous question about the pressure treated lumber, I took it back and got regular pine boards. My next question is this, do you leave gaps between your boards that form your table top and bottom shelf, and if so how big of gap, or do you butt them up so they touch. Thanks for the help.

DynaGreaseball · September 2007

Mayberry Smoker,[p]Not really sure why I did, but I put a 1/4" space between them. It made them come out even on the front and back. I think it's a matter of preference.[p]

jwirlwind · September 2007

Mayberry Smoker,
Do not space the boards. In time, the natural moisture will leave the wood and it will shrink leaving more gap than you want. [p]MC Jerry

Fidel · September 2007

Mayberry Smoker,[p]I used a screw as a spacer on either end of the decking boards to create a uniform small gap between the boards. kind of like the little cross shaped spacers you use when laying tile to create grout space. If nothing else it allows rain and the inevitable ash/crumbs/other detritus to fall through.[p]I really think it is personal preference. If you use a good urethane or other sealant I don't think there will be much natural shrinkage - at least I haven't seen any in my table and it has been out there through the hottest part of the Atlanta summer.

DynaGreaseball · September 2007

Mayberry Smoker,[p]Hey, be sure to click on Fidel's name. He's got a pic of his table on his profile. And it's a beaut!

Just Plain Mike · September 2007

Jwirlwind,
Perhaps you should reconsider a decision against pressure treated. I am afraid some folks may have scared you away unnecessarily. Pressure treated wood should be safe as long as you don't burn it in your smoker or use as a cutting board. Several years ago, PT wood was treated with CCA but the industry is now using chemical treatments that are not as toxic. However, even if you wanted to use CCA treated wood, it would be safe as long as you don't prepare your food in contact with the wood such as you would if you used it as a cutting board. [p]Here's a link with background info.[p]http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/infpre.html[p]You can also buy kiln dried wood if you want to stain it or treat it. If you are going to have this table exposed to the elements, I'd seriously consider treated pine over reqular pine. It's not should not rot and is resistant to damage from pests.

Fidel · September 2007

DynaGreaseball,[p]I appreciate that comment. The pic was taken before I sanded all the lumber stamps off and applied the sealant and added hooks for hanging all my utensils. I guess I need an updated pic![p]I can't believe I waited so long to build it. I used the nest and mates for a long long time and thought I had plenty of space. Now I find myself wishing I had built my table even bigger. I love having all the work space.

DynaGreaseball · September 2007

DynaGreaseball,[p]This is my brother's table. It was built about 10 years ago. When he asked me if I thought he should build a new one, I told him "NO". It has kind of a weathered patina with interesting asymmetrical lines and angles. I might add that it has been exposed to the weather day and night for 10 years in the mountains of Georgia. [p]

I'd say think practical in your design.

SmokinGuitarPlayer · September 2007

Mayberry Smoker,
I think best that you leave a small gap between the top and shelf boards.
Expansion/ contraction and also it'll let any rain/snow/spills / etc. drain through.
Post some pics when you get done with it.

stike · September 2007

Just Plain Mike,
there's no real reason for using PT wood as a finished table surface, though. you get no benefit from it. cedar or any other properly cared for wood will last indefinitely used as a table top. and the other woods will work better, look better, and can be finished in a number of ways, left natural, stained, painted. [p]maybe it's just me, but PT is (treatment aside) very poor wood. it's fast-growth, sodden, given to twisting, toxic to work with, etc. etc. if you are building something structural, and it's in close contact with damp and the ground, sure. but a table top three feet up in the air isn't going to become rot or insect infested anytime soon. just seems you'd be paying a premium for for bad wood, and gaining no benefits. [p]you can't finish PT until it dries out, and it's such bad wood (giant growth rings, green cast) that your only good looking option (IMNSHO) is to paint or stain it. [p]don't mean to sound like a total buzzkill, but it's like undercoating. it sounds good, until you really consider exactly what is being promised, and whether it really is needed (or even a plus).[p]

Grill Goddess · September 2007

Mayberry Smoker,[p]My husband decided we needed a table for prep and buffet for serving (everyone shows up when they smell or see the egg going). He knows I like the nest's ability to turn into the wind to stoke the fire quickly.[p]So he included a lazy suzan which the egg sits on. He used the brackets from the nest, on top of a wood lazy suzan that he built. A piece of starboard on the bottom with a center bolt assembly allows it to move 360 degrees very easily, all while sitting in the table. The egg sits up a little higher, but still manageable.[p]How could I not love it?[p]Carol

Unknown · September 2007

stike,
Good points. I am not promoting any particular wood. Just trying to set the record straight that unless you are going to eat the pressure treated wood, or use as a fuel, there is no real danger. In my opinion, is not nearly as attractive as other options out there. I would probably use it if it were exposed to the weather, otherwise, I'd likely select something that looks better.[p]

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