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Gasketless folks - Help

I have been going comando (gasketless) since the factory gasket completely disintegrated a few months ago.  I have a new gasket but its been too cold out to put it on the Egg. 

When I fired up the Egg and the white smoke was going strong I closed the done and smoke pours out the sides and eventually stops when the smoke is clear.

I had allot of issues keeping the temps down on Yesterdays cook.  The bottom vent was open 2-3 screen holes wide (~1/8 of and inch) and the DW about 1/4 inch open.  Cooking indirect and using a maverick the grate temp was 350.  Could not get it lower without shutting it off.

A few weeks back I tried to realign the dome.  I loosened the bolts and got the dome to close tight but when I tighten them up the dome lists a hair. 

I am guessing this is letting in more air than I would like and resulting in the higher temp at the grate. 

Also those that are commando - do you use a Maverick (or other remote probe(s))?  How do you get the dome to seal then?

_______________________________________________________________
LBGE, Adjustable Rig, Spider, High-Que grate, maverick ET-732, Thermapen,


Garnerville, NY
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Comments

  • ChubbsChubbs Posts: 3,632
    I am going commando and have a butt on right now with both maverick probes. A little smoke comes out around gasket but not much. If you let you egg get to 350 or so with the platesetter in place it will take a while to get it back down. That ceramic PS holds heat like a sponge. I have no gasket and dome is slightly off center and I have been holding 259 grate temp for 2 hours so far.
    Columbia, SC --- LBGE 2011 -- MINI BGE 2013
  • robnybbqrobnybbq Posts: 1,620
    after 4 hours closed the grate was 350

    _______________________________________________________________
    LBGE, Adjustable Rig, Spider, High-Que grate, maverick ET-732, Thermapen,


    Garnerville, NY
  • robnybbqrobnybbq Posts: 1,620
    Come on summer.  I need to add a gasket.

    _______________________________________________________________
    LBGE, Adjustable Rig, Spider, High-Que grate, maverick ET-732, Thermapen,


    Garnerville, NY
  • Try replacing the carriage bolts with a couple of new ones.  Should help in re-aligning the dome and bottom.

    the city above Toronto - Noodleville wtih 2 Large 1 Mini

  • EggcelsiorEggcelsior Posts: 9,781
    It's finally time to replace mine. I have a ~ 1/8" gap towards the back part of my dome that I can see daylight through(this is without the bands tightened, just the dome sitting on the base). Did a cook yesterday then shut the egg down. Went out 3 hours later to cover the egg(typically the egg is cooled off by this time on a low and slow). Egg was still 250 on the dome thermo and when I opened it, the coals were still going. I have the feeling the gasket will pay for itself very quickly as I am figuring that I am able to get around 1/2 the cooks out of the same load of charcoal that I used to.
  • The only issue I have is that the lump doesn't snuff out as well when I shut the daisy down. Close your vents up some more

    Steve 

    Caledon, ON

     

  • I cooked a brisket at 250 for 10 hours, and 2 more hours at 300. I don't have a gasket either, but when I'm cooking slow I just build a small fire in the middle and put in the plate setter. I set my bottom vent a little less than an 1/8 and rotate the daisy wheel about an 1/8 to a 1/4 for around 250. Just have to play with it.
    Geaux Tigers!! West Monroe, Louisiana
  • SkinnyVSkinnyV Posts: 1,959
    Hmm I noticed  my lump bag going quick. My mini has been gasket less but also has a crack down the side. I checked 2.5 hrs after the cook and coals still has a little light.
    As of now can't tell if its gasket or the crack but I think its no gasket causing lump to burn out more. I will be putting a rutland on once my replacement comes but my lump has been going quicker.
    Seattle, WA
  • robnybbqrobnybbq Posts: 1,620
    I used to be able to keep the Egg ~ 240-260 solid - pre-gasket failure.
    Now I can not keep it below 340 it seems.  If I close the bottom vent anymore it will be closed all the way.  It was open 2 screen holes - 1/8 of an inch and the top 1/4 the way open.

    I guess my dome and base are not perfectly flat/smooth.  I can see daylight around most of the gap.  Will have to wait until the summer to do some more low and slows (temps below 350) when I can replace the gasket.  I still think its a poor design of the gasket and that the Egg I bought LAST year should have had the so called "High heat" gasket already on it.  Now I have to replace it and purchase the glue and a grinder wheel to do it and pray it comes out right.

    _______________________________________________________________
    LBGE, Adjustable Rig, Spider, High-Que grate, maverick ET-732, Thermapen,


    Garnerville, NY
  • Kind of like buying a new car and find out the manufacturer installed recaps !! :((
  • I used my large for the first time in a while last night, (been using the xl more) and I still have a gasket on it. I noticed that I was able to snuff out the fire WAY FASTER, and was left with much more fuel after the cook. I have been one to preach that one does not need a gasket, while this is true, I totally agree that temp control and fuel consumption is clearly better with a gasket.



    "Entrepreneurs are simply those who understand that there is little difference between obstacle and opportunity and are able to turn both to their advantage."

  • Ragtop99Ragtop99 Posts: 1,271

    robnybbq said:
    I guess my dome and base are not perfectly flat/smooth.  I can see daylight around most of the gap.
    I was wondering whether you had scraped all of the material off
    Cooking on an XL and Medium in Bethesda, MD.
  • robnybbqrobnybbq Posts: 1,620
    Its all off.  I scraped it all off.  There is some residue here and there nut its mostly smooth.  One issue I noticed is when I use the remote probes it makes the opening worse and I understand why.

    _______________________________________________________________
    LBGE, Adjustable Rig, Spider, High-Que grate, maverick ET-732, Thermapen,


    Garnerville, NY
  • Ragtop99Ragtop99 Posts: 1,271
    ^^^ If there is enough wire, you can drop them in through the top to reduce the air leakage problem
    Cooking on an XL and Medium in Bethesda, MD.
  • Ragtop99 -- ever check the temperature of that air coming out the top vent??  If you go with the rutland gasket it is thick enough to absorb the probe cable and still seal good.
  • Ragtop99Ragtop99 Posts: 1,271
    Charlie Tuna:  I haven't measured the air temp at the top.  I assume it is around that seen by the built in temp gauge, maybe a little hotter.  I've seen others run the wires down to the grate through the top.  This was just a suggestion for the OP until he can fix the gasket. 
    Cooking on an XL and Medium in Bethesda, MD.
  • When i'm cooking at 350 to 375 there are flames licking out the top vent at times -- also if you have a thermapen stick it in there or lift the dome up just enough and stick it inside the gasket -- you will be suprised how hot these areas get.  After burning up a few different manufacturer's probe wires i started looking around to see what temperature they are rated for --  and most will not stand up to temperatures found in the "hot spots" within the egg.  Thats why i double or triple wrap my probe cables entering the egg  -- cheap way to protect your probes... 
  • ChubbsChubbs Posts: 3,632
    +1 for wrapping cables from now on. Easy to do and better safe than sorry.
    Columbia, SC --- LBGE 2011 -- MINI BGE 2013
  • jlsmjlsm Posts: 796
    The Maverick 73 was rated 450, but the newer 732 is rated for 700. I still triple wrap the wires, though. 
    *******
    Owner of a large and a beloved mini in Philadelphia
  • robnybbqrobnybbq Posts: 1,620
    I have the ET732.  I wrapped the probes wires with HD Foil and the food probe still only lasted ~6-10 cooks.

    Wrapping the wires makes the opening where the gasket should be larger.  Looks like I will go back to a gasket once the weather gets warmer.  For now - no more low and slows until then.

    _______________________________________________________________
    LBGE, Adjustable Rig, Spider, High-Que grate, maverick ET-732, Thermapen,


    Garnerville, NY
  • I only use my probes (bbq guru digiq dx2) when I am cooking at low temps, such as 175-250. What are you guys cooking at temps that will melt the wires that requires you to use a temp probe/controller? I ask because at higher temps, the cook time is much lower and one is typically at their grill while cooking. Just my .02



    "Entrepreneurs are simply those who understand that there is little difference between obstacle and opportunity and are able to turn both to their advantage."

  • If i am spatchcocking a turkey i might use my probes to monitor what's happening.  I [retty much know my chckens just by time, but haven't done too many turkey. Also fresh turkey breast..
  • So where is the best place to source a Rutland gasket from?  I'll be do for a replacement in the spring as well.  I'm down to a Nomex gasket on the base only.  The top one pulled off one day when the two stuck together.
  • I got mine from RRP on the other egg forum -- cheap and super fast service..
  • Ace hardware. I use a rutland and love it. 
  • robnybbqrobnybbq Posts: 1,620
    I have a new high heat one from the BGE that I will install once it gets warmer out.  Is this one not good?  Doesn't the Rutland have fiberglass in it?  or not food safe?

    _______________________________________________________________
    LBGE, Adjustable Rig, Spider, High-Que grate, maverick ET-732, Thermapen,


    Garnerville, NY
  • EggcelsiorEggcelsior Posts: 9,781
    edited February 2013
    robnybbq said:
    I have a new high heat one from the BGE that I will install once it gets warmer out.  Is this one not good?  Doesn't the Rutland have fiberglass in it?  or not food safe?
    It's fine. It is the Nomex one. This is like asking what the best charcoal is. I am planning on installing it as well once I get the logistics of my plan put together. It is still possible to fry both, but I don't think you can go wrong with either one.
  • EggcelsiorEggcelsior Posts: 9,781

    robnybbq said:
    I have a new high heat one from the BGE that I will install once it gets warmer out.  Is this one not good?  Doesn't the Rutland have fiberglass in it?  or not food safe?
    It's fine. It is the Nomex one. This is like asking what the best charcoal is. I am planning on installing it as well once I get the logistics of my plan put together. It is still possible to fry both, but I don't think you can go wrong with either one.
    Oh, the Rutland is not "Food Safe" for the simple fact that it hasn't been tested for this application. You're probably doing more damage with the CO and charcoal dust you inhale from grilling, FWIW.
  • Ragtop99Ragtop99 Posts: 1,271
    edited February 2013
    When i'm cooking at 350 to 375 there are flames licking out the top vent at times -- also if you have a thermapen stick it in there or lift the dome up just enough and stick it inside the gasket -- you will be suprised how hot these areas get.  After burning up a few different manufacturer's probe wires i started looking around to see what temperature they are rated for --  and most will not stand up to temperatures found in the "hot spots" within the egg.  Thats why i double or triple wrap my probe cables entering the egg  -- cheap way to protect your probes... 
    I haven't seen that issue at 350*, but I do wrap my wires even at lower temps.  I mainly use the maverick for indirect cooks at 300* and below, but I can see if you're approaching 400* direct that it could be an issue.  I've worried if there is going to be a problem, it is going to be closer to the fire where the wire is not protected from the fire by my stone (Woo2 + stone; no platesetter).

    Cooking on an XL and Medium in Bethesda, MD.
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