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Installing my seal in a few days--a few questions

doubleapexdoubleapex Posts: 61
edited 9:25PM in EggHead Forum
The bottom gasket has already burned off, just glue left. The top one didn't fry as bad--should I leave it on or remove it and go with just the new bottom seal?

Scrape, lightly sand and apply some sort of acetone before the new seal is installed??

Thanks guys!


  • Grandpas GrubGrandpas Grub Posts: 14,226
    Sanding, grinding, gouging the egg surface will void the warranty. If you question make a quick call to BGE Service. Also don't use petroleum based cleaners. The cleaner will absorb into the ceramics and will make the new adhesive harder to hold.

    BGE suggests using acetone to clean the surface. For me using isoproplyl alcohol - 91% alcohol (walmart) works well. I use a very stiff putty knife that won't gouge the ceramics. Get some heavy duty paper towels or old rag and keep the egg surface wet while rubbing off the surface.

    The cleaning of a large gasket and adhesive should not take much longer than 30 minutes.

    I work in shorter areas at a time. Here is a picture of the different stages.

    If the upper gasket looks OK and is tight you may not have to replace. You are going to have to use your best judgment on this...

  • Capt FrankCapt Frank Posts: 2,578
    Follow GG's instructions. I have replaced the gasket on all of my eggs with Rutland and Permatex "Ultra Copper", bottom only. I did not bother removing the top gaskets.
    Ping "RRP" on this forum, he can set you up with the Rutland and very good instructions :) :)
  • Grandpas GrubGrandpas Grub Posts: 14,226
    Where are you finding the ultra copper blend?

  • doubleapexdoubleapex Posts: 61
    thanks for the tips...I totally would have sanded the rim! Will just use my putty knife and the isoprophyl instead!
  • ChokeOnSmokeChokeOnSmoke Posts: 1,905
    Grandpas Grub wrote:
    Where are you finding the ultra copper blend?

    I got mine at a local auto parts store for like $5-$6.
    Packerland, Wisconsin

  • Capt FrankCapt Frank Posts: 2,578
    Any auto parts store :)
  • Grandpas GrubGrandpas Grub Posts: 14,226
    I picked up some red but it says it will stay plyable. I got to wondering if that would problematic. I plan on using Ranger Ray's method, silicone only.

  • Grandpas GrubGrandpas Grub Posts: 14,226
    Thanks, the only place I didn't go... :)

  • FrobozzFrobozz Posts: 98
    You really should have little trouble removing the old gasket with a paint scraper. I used acetone to remove stuck-on remnants and it did the trick.

    I used a Nomex gasket with 3M spray-on adhesive and found the whole process to be incredibly easy once I cleaned the old gaskets away. The good thing about the spray-on adhesive as opposed to adhesive-backed gaskets is that it's easy to re-lift and relocate the gasket without losing adhesion. I replaced both gaskets without even taking the lid off -- I found it easy to do and it worked fine.
  • Grandpas GrubGrandpas Grub Posts: 14,226
    Thanks. I have replaced 9 gaskets so far but have always put felt back on. For me Isopropyl (91%) works better than acetone. I do use acetone as a final wipe up. Suposidly 3M Super 77 is a liquid rubber cement. On this gasket change I want to try using silicone only.

    It will be interesting...

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