Big Green Egg - EGGhead Forum - The Ultimate Cooking Experience...
Welcome to the EGGhead Forum - a great place to visit and packed with tips and EGGspert advice! You can also join the conversation and get more information and amazing kamado recipes by following Big Green Egg at:

Facebook  |  Twitter  |  Instagram  |  Pinterest  |  Youtube  |  Vimeo
Share your photos by tagging us and using the hashtag #EGGhead4Life.


In Atlanta? Come visit Big Green Egg headquarters, including our retail showroom, the History of the EGG Museum and Culinary Center!  3786 DeKalb Technology Parkway, Atlanta, GA 30340.

Ceramic Tile on Egg Table, anyone know how to do it?

SqueezeSqueeze Posts: 707
edited 3:47AM in EggHead Forum
Just got a new table and am thinking that I really like the look of the tiled tops that I see on TNW's table page. How do you do it and are there any how-tos anywhere. Thanks![p]-Kevin

Comments

  • Chef WilChef Wil Posts: 702
    LinkPhoto?GUID=37b72fac-9645-7679-26a6-29e34c2a4369&size=
    <p />Squeeze,
    I am not pro at ceramics and woodworking, but I can tell you I put dark green ceramic on my table and have not had any problems (YET) I used liquid nails to glue ceramic to the table top, I did not use any fillers, cuz I heard they get ugly, I just butted them close together.

  • chucklschuckls Posts: 399
    Squeeze,[p]I haven't done it yet, but I plan to tile my table with glass tiles. Since I already have "broken in" the table, my plan is to get some thin underlayment from Home Depot, some tile adhesive, and some grout. All that's missing then is a round 'toit.[p]Remember to post pics of your table when you're done![p]Chuck[p][p]
  • SqueezeSqueeze Posts: 707
    Chef Wil,
    Did you put the tiles directly to the wood top? Was the wood stained or sealed before you did it? I am wondering if I need to screw some Luon (sp) on first as a backer. Just wondering....

  • nikkignikkig Posts: 514
    BrickFinal.jpg
    <p />Squeeze,
    It wsa a very easy process. Here is a step by step on how we did our table. If I remember right, the place we got our tiles sold us the stuff to stick them to the board. We did use grout, just not a light color. We also put a sealer on the grout, and have no problems with stains. Every once in awhile, I just go out there with some soapy water and scrub it down. [p]~nikki

    [ul][li]Our Egg[/ul]
  • ShelbyShelby Posts: 803
    Squeeze,
    I went to Home Depot and asked how. Was given easy directions, etc...came out great.[p]

  • Chef WilChef Wil Posts: 702
    Squeeze,
    I had used a finish that had stain built in, then I decided to cover it, I just light sanded the area then applied the liquid nails.

  • Bob VBob V Posts: 195
    If you really want to do it right, you should use cement backerboard (blueboard) as the base for the tile. No matter how well you seal, if it is outside plywood will eventually give way. The cement board provides a flat, impervious surface for the tile, and can be cut with regular saws.[p]Bob V
  • Spring ChickenSpring Chicken Posts: 10,206
    Bob V,
    I was just about to post the same message. You are absolutely correct about using the backer board under the tile. I should also point out that in areas where the temperature is extremely cold (Anything north of Waco TX) you should use porcelain tile instead of ceramic tile. Ceramic will crack in extreme weather conditions. Be aware that porcelain tile is extremely hard and you may have a problem cutting curves without proper equipment. You will also want to put a sealer in the grout lines to protect from moisture and food or grease stains.[p]Spring Chicken
    Spring Texas USA

  • Citizen QCitizen Q Posts: 484
    Squeeze,
    If this table is going to be out in the open, exposed to the elements, you have to get it right if you want it to last more than a couple of years, especially if you experience freezing temps in the winter. You should start by covering the table with a CEMENT backer board, secured with screws every 8 inches. Find a nice Type IV porcelain tile rated for exterior use and you'll also need an exterior use rated thinset mortar. LATICRETE makes the best thinset that I've used, it's available from most tile retailers and wholesalers, but you can save some money if you can get to a Lowe's, they carry the brand but they may not stock the exterior formula so you may have to order it.[p]You will also need an exterior rated grout, I would space the tile 1/4" and use an unsanded grout. When the grout has properly cured (hopefully indoors) you will need to seal it well, 3 or 4 coats of a good penetrating sealer, so buy the $30 bottle, not the $7 junk.[p]Good Luck,
    C~Q

  • Spring ChickenSpring Chicken Posts: 10,206
    Citizen Q,
    That's what I tried to say. You just said it a heck of a lot better. Thanks for pitching in with the details.[p]Spring Chicken

  • tach18ktach18k Posts: 1,607
    Citizen Q, I have found that unsanded grout over 3/16 inch does not perform well and cracks over time, I prefer a sanded grout, and for outdoor use you can color a good thinset and use that as grout.

  • tach18k,
    Thanks for catching that, you are absolutely correct, I should have said SANDED grout.[p]You can use thinset as grout, but I'd recommend applying with a grout bag and masonry pointing tool rather than a grout float and immediatly cleaning any excess to avoid having to clean up with a chisel. Don't ever use the thinset mortars that are precolored and formulated to be used as grout, they don't work either as mortar or as grout.[p]Cheers,
    C~Q

Sign In or Register to comment.
Click here for Forum Use Guidelines.