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Cook\'s Illustrated on aging beef at home

RRP
RRP Posts: 26,455
edited November -0001 in EggHead Forum
Today the March/April issue of Cook's Illustrated arrived and the 3rd letter in Notes From Readers was on dry aging steaks at home. Their conclusion and I quote "...after four days (the longest length of time we felt comfortable storing raw beef in a home fridge)." and then further down "Our findings? Sure enough, four days of dry aging in a home frig gave the steaks a comparably smoky flavor and dense, tender texture."

All I can say is ah come on now Christopher Kimball - 4 days tops? Give us a break!
Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time 

Comments

  • More interesting to me is their finding that 4 days is a game changer. Brings into play buy meat on Saturday, eat well later in the week, even if it's not as good as the longer dry. The current 28, 35 day plans require a bigger investment in fridge space and planning.

    Doug
  • 4 days doesn't change any game, man. hahahaha
    sure, you get a little bump in a few days, but the payoff is after a couple weeks.

    there's absolutely no planning involved. this grew out of storage. the longer it was stored hanging, the more it aged. same today. put it in your fridge and eat it when you want. you don't need to plan for two weeks. just let it go.

    you don't plan when to use that fourth stick of butter do you? no. when you want it, take it out.
  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 26,455
    The added kicker was the picture at the bottom for the quick glance readers that said "Four days of dry-aging in a home fridge gave this beef the intense flavor and tender texture of steak costing twice as much."
    Excuse me, but I just find that hard to believe!
    Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time 
  • well, that just means after 28 days, the meat tastes like it costs FOURTEEN times as much, right? hahaha

    the funny thing is, if anything is going to go wrong in two weeks or three weeks (bacterially), it'll go bad in four days, too.
  • UKMatt
    UKMatt Posts: 113
    Has anyone tried it to see if they have any leg to stand on?

    The reason I ask is that CI is generally pretty good on their testing and I find them pretty reliable across the board, whether it's recipes, equipment or product.

    I'd be surprised to find they were totally off base.

    UKMatt
  • I completely agree about the bacteria. As I understand it two things are going on.

    1) drying which will be exponentially decreasing in nature as the thicker the dry layer gets the more it protects the inside.

    2) enzyme action which also will be exponentially decreasing as the enzymes and consumables get used up.

    depending on the steepness of those curves you would get a half of the change in much less than half of the time. And the fact that the two processes change at different speeds, means that some fairly specific length of time/temperature will be optimal to your persoanl taste.

    Tricky to know without a ton of experimentation.

    Doug
  • they aren't off base.. they are just being very conservative. there's no way in heck they are going to tell everyone it's fine to toss beef in your fridge and yank it out a month later.

    they aren't going to be giving any tips on making thousand year eggs or bleu cheese at home anytime soon, i'd bet.
    hahahaha
  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 26,455
    For sake of perspective this was not a featured report but instead the response to a letter from Frank Baxter of Spring, TX. Anybody know him?
    Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time 
  • If the drying and enzyme are most active at the start and decrease exponentially as time goes on, might there be some truth in the opinion that just four days drying makes a difference? Seems that just four days would provide somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 the change that would occur with a full 16 day aging process.
  • there are so many variables... i'll leave it to the scientists to crunch the numbers

    in my fridge, empirical evidence trumps all the cogitatin' an' ruminatin'
  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 26,455
    OK - let me come from a different direction...recently I aged a standing rib roast for 35 days using a Drybag. During that time the primal lost 19% of its weight meaning moisture. That action means a concentration of the flavor and tenderization - then how can a mere 4 days achieve similiar taste enhancement results as claimed? Answer: Logically it can't!
    Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time 
  • Did they really say "frig"? :woohoo:
    The Naked Whiz
  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 34,594
    been seeing lately in magazines that the writers getting paid might not have any knollege of the subject at hand but they have the job to do writeups on subjects they know very little about. alot of us like the beef being sold last day in the managers special section so i would say its a little better but to say its been dry aged is taking it a little bit over the edge. one of the better fishing magazines had awriteup on one of the most historical salmon fisheries in nh this year, instead of getting someone local to do the featured writeup they had someone down on conneticut do it, within two sentences you could see he never even drove by the lake but was giving advice like an expert on of that particular lake. probably the same thing going on here :(
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • I find this confusing. Certainly, the writers of CI know at least enough about the restaurant industry and meat aging to know that steakhouses age their beef for much longer than 4 days. I guess it's the motive here that confuses me. I'm sure they felt they couldn't write an article telling their readers to leave their meat in the fridge for a month. So why write it at all?
  • a peeve of mine. among many!
    hahaha
  • I did a little research and at least one dictionary says it also means "fridge". I wonder how many people see "frig" and hear "fridge" in their head. :-)
    The Naked Whiz
  • now if we could just get them to start saying "feb-roo-airy" insteada "feb-yoo-airy". no one says "Li-Berry" do they?

    I was having 'beverages' with a couple buddies of mine who are Kingsley Amis types. Real hardnose grammarians and useage-nazis.

    I mentioned the weatherman saying 'feb-yoo-airy' and they surprised me by letting it slide. about ten minutes later i said "center-if-ugal force" and he stopped me and said "it's pronounced cen-triff-ugal".

    and the debate was on

    those are the kinds of bar-fights we artists/designers have. :blush:
  • Two comments about your post:

    1. You have just noticed this phenomenon lately? Seems to me like reporting has been going down hill for quite a while now.

    2. I don't think you have to be a local to write a good story about a very local tradition, event, or place. What you do have to do is research and interview locals who know what they are talking about. I have to deal with reporters occasionally and I find that none of the ones I deal with have done any research on the topic. Worse yet, they are not willing to do any research before they write some piece of !@#* that has the sole purpose of getting their wacked out readers in a tizzy.

    Do I sound bitter about this? Seeing you name in print in an obvious hack job kind of has that effect.

    In fact, the other day I got a call at work from the paper asking me to subscribe. I laughed and told the guy that there is no way I will ever subscribe to that paper. He asked why, and I told him that I thought the reporting was horrible and irresponsible.

    Sorry for the rant. Guess I will stop now. :whistle:
  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 34,594
    one of the papers up here printed a story with a guy holding a small perch up while getting his picture taken. the guy was a jokster, told the reporter it was a trouser trout. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: and that story got printed in the paper picture and all, i dont even think theres an editor anymore :laugh: its really bad, especially the technical stuff like i see here in the welding journals
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • Trouser trout. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

    I once saw a story on weightlifting before it was as popular as it is now. The weightlifters said one of their favorite workouts was schlong dipping. That got printed. This was in the early 80's, so the problem with bad or no editing has been around for a while.

    The stuff I get quoted on is technical. The reporters don't want to see any side of the story except the one that fits their own bias or the clear bias of their readership. Unfortunately, we do not have the same distribution channels to get out our side of the story. Oh well, I guess we manage somehow.