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Egg band/dome bolts

ThunderBunny
ThunderBunny Posts: 132
edited November -0001 in EggHead Forum
Afternoon all! My table is almost done and I will soon be embarking on putting my new large BGE together...so excited :laugh: I know Egg specs require torquing those large bolts at the spring assembly to the point of bending, but how tight is too tight for all the others. I can see myself torquing down just far enough to the point of hearing the ceramic cracking....and then throwing a major tantrum.
Also, what about a ThermaPen - worth the scratch?
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Comments

  • Weekend Warrior
    Weekend Warrior Posts: 1,702
    Welcome to the forum (a little late :) ) The small bolts that attach the bands to the hinge just need to be "snug" tight. The carriage bolts that tighten the bands are the most important. They need to be torqued until they just start to bend(the tabs on the bands will bend slightly in this process also). The bolt that secures the band around the dome is the most critical. You will snap the bolt before you will crack the dome. After you've cooked on the egg a few times, check the carriage bolts for tightness again and then every couple of months thereafter. You don't want that dome falling out of the band. :ohmy:

    Mark
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  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 26,455
    while I don't disagree with your answer I will take it step further and I've never had a problem in 10 years. That is after you torque it until the bolts start to bend then run a second nut up behind the first. That is an old mechanic's trick called double-nutting and trust me once you have tightened that second one that band is going no where!
    Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time 
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  • Ripnem
    Ripnem Posts: 5,511
    And we only do any of this bolt tightening business with COLD eggs. ;)

    Meant for Thunderbunny, Ron.
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  • Weekend Warrior
    Weekend Warrior Posts: 1,702
    Yeah, a second nut definitely wouldn't hurt. All three of us forgot to answer his Thermopen question. A resounding yes from me! Invaluable, very accurate and very, very fast. DON'T believe the claims of less expensive competitors who claim "Instant Read", it's B*ll Sh*t.

    Mark
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  • Ripnem
    Ripnem Posts: 5,511
    Mark,

    Couldn't agree more.

    It should be the second thing you get after the egg. Not including lump :P
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  • ThunderBunny
    ThunderBunny Posts: 132
    Double-nutting eh? Not only is it a great tip, but it sounds like a great punchline to a dirty joke :woohoo:
    And a Thermapen it is! Thanks fellas....
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  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Great idea, I do this as well for other applications.

    I get my large BGE tomorrow. What size nut is the correct size to use?
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  • 2Fategghead
    2Fategghead Posts: 9,624
    5/16 hex nuts

    SPRING ASSISTED BAND INSTRUCTION MANUAL PARTS LIST LARGE, MEDIUM & SMALL EGG (2) Bands (1) Handle assembly (1) Hinge mechanism assembly (1) Hardware bag: (2) ¼” x ½” clinch studs (8) ¼” x 5/8” clinch studs (8) ¼” Keps nuts (2) 5/16” x 2” carriage bolts (2) ¼” Acorn nuts (2) 5/16” flat washers (2) 5/16” hex nuts


    http://forte-products.com/img/BGE SAB Manual 7-16-07.pdf
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  • Doug in Eggmonton
    Doug in Eggmonton Posts: 1,999
    What WW Said and yes, yes yes the thermapen is worth the scratch many times over.

    Doug.
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  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Thanks. I got my new egg, and assembled it last night. Just happened to have a couple 5/16" nylock nuts, and used them to double nut.

    Unfortunately, it was pouring rain last night, so first cook will have to wait until tonight.



    2Fategghead wrote:
    5/16 hex nuts

    SPRING ASSISTED BAND INSTRUCTION MANUAL PARTS LIST LARGE, MEDIUM & SMALL EGG (2) Bands (1) Handle assembly (1) Hinge mechanism assembly (1) Hardware bag: (2) ¼” x ½” clinch studs (8) ¼” x 5/8” clinch studs (8) ¼” Keps nuts (2) 5/16” x 2” carriage bolts (2) ¼” Acorn nuts (2) 5/16” flat washers (2) 5/16” hex nuts


    http://forte-products.com/img/BGE SAB Manual 7-16-07.pdf
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  • 2Fategghead
    2Fategghead Posts: 9,624
    F308gt4, Good deal. Glad to help. ;) Tim
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