How to protect table

Unknown · June 2007

Should I prepare ( protect) the surface of the table I bought today .I do not want ant mildew or mold ( or food stains ) to show . Thank you , Lyn

Tony · June 2007

Lynn elle,
I am keenly interested in this, too. I bought mine last week (with my Egg) and have cooked every night, since. It is getting various sauce stains, coal marks from the poker, etc., on it and I do not like that at all. I've asked my dealer twice, and he swears I should do nothing to it. I thought about sanding it down good with an orbital sander, then staining it with a rich darker red stain... but still don't know what to do to protect it. Varnish is no good, because it won't last... and will have to be redone at least once a year in my climate.[p]TD

Unknown · June 2007

Tony, O.k. So my husband is just in route to our home now with the egg package! Maybe we can figure out together a treatment for the table ? - Lyn

LoNOx · June 2007

Lynn elle,
Spar varnish is about the only thing that will last with UV rays and that is not with 24/7 exposure. I am building a table and putting a solid surface countertop on it. The cabinet is t&g beaded cedar that will have spar varnish on it.
When finished, I'm going to order a cover for it from:[p]
[ul][li]Mels BBQ Covers[/ul]

TomB in MD · June 2007

Lynn elle,
First, it depends where you live as to what works as good finish. Staining is very hard to prevent on wood unless you're going to essentially coat it in plastic, aka, "spar varnish" There are two principal differences between spar and non-spar varnish. Spar varnish has a higher oil content, making it both more flexible (good) and softer (bad), and spar varnish being planned for outdoor use normally has UV inhibitors (good).[p]The real downside to varnish (spar or otherwise) is that you really need to form a film (layer) on top of the wood. Invariably, this will fail, which results in peeling, usually mildew growing underneath the finish as it begins to crack and peel, etc. The only way to repair the surface is to sand it down (to bare wood normally) and refinish.[p]I live in MD. Here, due to full four seasons, unbearable humidity, etc, you will normally get one or two years out of your varnish before you need to refinish. A more hospital climate, under cover of a roof, etc, should last longer.[p]Depends on how much maintenance you want versus how important appearance is. I use Cetol, I don't know who makes it but I've always found it at stores that sell Benjamin Moore paint. Now that BM makes their own exterior finish I don't know that will continue, but BM's product will probably be good. There are many other brands. UV protection is nice because it does help the wood. But it will never look as nice as a new varnish finish. Looks light years better than a two year old varnish finish though. I just clean, light sand, and reapply a coat every couple years. Much less work.[p]Wood is a natural product, it gets old fast, can appreciate that kind of beauty too. Heck, people pay extra for 'aged' looking furniture. What you don't want is rot to wear it out prematurely. A cetol-like product is much better for this than varnish in my view.

Charbon · June 2007

Lynn elle,
I would go with a min wax stain like Medium Oak color. Follow with min wax spar varnish (green can) I also bought a cover and try to put on after use when egg cool. I don't plan on recoating too often but I don't think it will be hassle. The cypress wood doesn't really need much or any sanding. The result is impressive and my wife thinks I'm an expert refinisher as well as outdoor cook.

How to protect table

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