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XL Egg temp drift

Sirk98
Sirk98 Posts: 79
edited December 2017 in EggHead Forum
Hi all

I'll try to take some pics and add later. 

Basically, I have an older XL.  I swapped the base out last year (original one cracked on me).  I installed the Rutland Gasket on it at install time.

It was working fine.  But then I decided to upgrade to the newer band style.  Now, I always noticed a little bit of a drift on long cooks (say, 225 up to 275 over 8 hours).. But now...I have been having a bear of a time keeping temp without it drifting.  I dont know if its a gap from bad alignment, or if I really should install a gasket on the neck for the smokeware cap to seat better?  If I didnt have a minimax right next to it that sat at 225 for 8 hours without a move on the dome gauge, I wouldnt think this was 'that big a deal.'

I should also note that I have switched from lighting the XL with a single BGE starter cube to using a propane torch.  Otherwise, my startup routine is consistent...

I tried adjusting the alignment once before.  I think if I do it again, I should replace the hardware again. 

Here is an example of what I am seeing:
  • Light egg using torch (ran out of starter cubes)
  • When coals glowing, put KJ Divide N Conquer innards into the egg (I use this instead of platesetter) and close lid with no cap/vent wide open
  • When dome registers 175, put smokeware cap on (1/4-1/2 open) and shut vent to 1/8" (this is my 225 dome temp setting in the past)
  • Fire roars past 225
  • When it hit 300, I put ceramic cap on and shut lid
  • When temp dropped to 180 at the grate (I put in maverick probe earlier), remove Divide N Conquer setup and add more lump (I realized I needed more anyway, because of brisket cook I was planning)
  • Relight with torch, put innards back in once glowing coals established.
  • Again, when dome registers 175, put smokeware cap on (1/4-1/2 open); this time, I put my Auber controller on as well, set for 230 degrees.  Probe clipped to maverick at the grate
  • Temp blew past 230.  settled in around 260
  • After 40 mins, I put brisket on as it was crazy late now (11pm-- I have small kids that wake up very early :)
  • Wake up at 7am the next morning, brisket done. Grate temp 290.



Comments

  • Photo Egg
    Photo Egg Posts: 12,137
    First off, if you intend to do a longer cook, start with a full load of lump.
    Don't get your fire going and then top it off. Just wasting lump waiting for clean fire now and NOTHING is stabilized.
    Don't ever over shoot your your target temp with a big fire and then try and bring it back down. You will be fighting it all day or night.
    The above will help but issue is to much air venting from somewhere. Are you seeing smoke leak around your gasket or Smokeware Cap?
    Thank you,
    Darian

    Galveston Texas
  • GrillSgt
    GrillSgt Posts: 2,507
    If you didn't have an issue before changing your bands it's pretty clear you've got a gap. Time for the dollar bill test, considering you've got an XL I would use a ten dollar bill.
  • Carolina Q
    Carolina Q Posts: 14,831
    edited December 2017
    You have too much airflow. Is there a leak around the lower vent? Gap anywhere around the gasket? Does it pass the dollar bill test? Everywhere?

    Obviously, your old settings aren't working for you. Not a surprise as all eggs seem to be a bit different. Try closing the vents to half of what you were doing with the old egg  and see where temp settles then. From your description of vent settings, I was surprised you had been able to hold 225 on the old one. Would have thought a considerable higher temp.

    I hate it when I go to the kitchen for food and all I find are ingredients!                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

    Michael 
    Central Connecticut 

  • Sirk98
    Sirk98 Posts: 79
    Photo Egg said:
    First off, if you intend to do a longer cook, start with a full load of lump.
    Don't get your fire going and then top it off. Just wasting lump waiting for clean fire now and NOTHING is stabilized.
    Don't ever over shoot your your target temp with a big fire and then try and bring it back down. You will be fighting it all day or night.
    The above will help but issue is to much air venting from somewhere. Are you seeing smoke leak around your gasket or Smokeware Cap?
    Thanks for reply!

    I am aware that I should have had more lump to start.  I forgot that I could raise the deflectors on my setup, thats why I had less than an ideal amount.

    Once I overshot temp, I knew I had time to snuff fire and relight-- I took advantage of crappy situation and reloaded with the proper amount.  thats what I meant to convey
  • Sirk98
    Sirk98 Posts: 79
    GrillSgt said:
    If you didn't have an issue before changing your bands it's pretty clear you've got a gap. Time for the dollar bill test, considering you've got an XL I would use a ten dollar bill.
    I agree.  My issue is that a gap seems to appear as I tighten the top band.  Maybe I need to loosen both bands next time...
  • Sirk98
    Sirk98 Posts: 79
    You have too much airflow. Is there a leak around the lower vent? Gap anywhere around the gasket? Does it pass the dollar bill test? Everywhere?

    Obviously, your old settings aren't working for you. Not a surprise as all eggs seem to be a bit different. Try closing the vents to half of what you were doing with the old egg  and see where temp settles then. From your description of vent settings, I was surprised you had been able to hold 225 on the old one. Would have thought a considerable higher temp.
    1/8" bottom vent too much?  interesting

    I am also cautious about closing smokeware too much (starving fire of draft)

    what is a 'typical' smokeware setting for 225?
  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 34,583
    i think you just had too much lump lit, its harder to control.  for what its worth i have no gasket left and dont have issues with the temp rising. now the lower vent could be a problem, check the sealant on the lower vent.
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • Photo Egg
    Photo Egg Posts: 12,137
    edited December 2017
    I normally like to run the major temp control with my lower vent.
    On my XL, cooking low and slow, it means a sliver open at times. Thickness of a quarter at times. The correct increments is what it takes on your Egg.
    If you are using a BBQ controller that drives a lower vent fan then you basically close your top vent almost completely on a low and slow and the fan forces the air out of the Egg.
    I have never used a Auber controller so i don't know if you are using it just to read your temps or also control the vents or fan for Auto temp.
    Again, it's tough to control the XL if you let your fire/temps get to hot. The temps will drop when you initially drop on the cold meat but will slowly climb just as you describe when the meat starts warming up. Especially if you stoke your fire up right after you add your cold meat trying to regain your 225 temp.
    Thank you,
    Darian

    Galveston Texas
  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 34,583
    Photo Egg said:
     Especially if you stoke your fire up right after you add your cold meat trying to regain your 225 temp.
    had this happen with a big cook, about 35 pounds cold meat, gages reading under 200 degrees, fire roaring red hot below before i saw what was going on.
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • GrillSgt
    GrillSgt Posts: 2,507
    Sirk98 said:
    GrillSgt said:
    If you didn't have an issue before changing your bands it's pretty clear you've got a gap. Time for the dollar bill test, considering you've got an XL I would use a ten dollar bill.
    I agree.  My issue is that a gap seems to appear as I tighten the top band.  Maybe I need to loosen both bands next time...
    I am by no means an expert but this may be a two man job. Loosen the bands and have someone push down while you tighten. Tighten some as you go.
  • Carolina Q
    Carolina Q Posts: 14,831
    Sirk98 said:
    You have too much airflow. Is there a leak around the lower vent? Gap anywhere around the gasket? Does it pass the dollar bill test? Everywhere?

    Obviously, your old settings aren't working for you. Not a surprise as all eggs seem to be a bit different. Try closing the vents to half of what you were doing with the old egg  and see where temp settles then. From your description of vent settings, I was surprised you had been able to hold 225 on the old one. Would have thought a considerable higher temp.
    1/8" bottom vent too much?  interesting

    I am also cautious about closing smokeware too much (starving fire of draft)

    what is a 'typical' smokeware setting for 225?
    On my large, for a 250° cook, the bottom vent is open about the thickness of a credit card, maybe a hair more. The petals on my daisy wheel about halfway, maybe less. As I recall anyway. I haven't done a 250° cook in a long time, and I've never done one below that. I've never lost a fire yet due to "starving of draft".

    I don't have a smokeware cap. 

    I hate it when I go to the kitchen for food and all I find are ingredients!                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

    Michael 
    Central Connecticut 

  • @Sirk98 - I bought my XL from a buddy of mine in the spring. He had burned off the top gasket and the thing was leaking smoke like crazy between the top and bottom. I played around with some of the gaskets that are widely used on this site but for me that didn't solve my problem. I struggled and over thought this whole thing!  I ended up loosening my bands and seating the lid the best I could.  I installed the BGE felt gasket to the lid and base (I know this is blasphemy to some). Now I know longer have a smoke leak. I still don't pass the dollar bill test but I am able to maintain temps for long cooks. This is all that matters to me.

    I use the Tip top temp (https://www.amazon.com/Attachable-Grill-Temperature-Regulator-TTT-02/dp/B0764T8386/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1513027812&sr=8-1&keywords=tip+top+temp) coupled with a HVAC reducer (https://www.amazon.com/UNITED-STATES-HDW-MFG-HA/dp/B000BQT748/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1513027864&sr=8-1&keywords=UNITED+STATES+HDW+MFG/U+S+HA+GV0784-A+6x5+Reducer/Increaser) and have very pleased with the ability to hold temps without fuss. 
  • Sirk98
    Sirk98 Posts: 79

    On my large, for a 250° cook, the bottom vent is open about the thickness of a credit card, maybe a hair more. The petals on my daisy wheel about halfway, maybe less. As I recall anyway. I haven't done a 250° cook in a long time, and I've never done one below that. I've never lost a fire yet due to "starving of draft".

    I don't have a smokeware cap. 
    I may try closing vent even more... Thats a good idea.  As is, I see green in the little gap I have open normally for 225-250 setting.  Will try even more closed

    With my controller, I think I may have to get some foil tape as well.  I suspect there may be a little air coming in between fan and 'kamado plate' that is used to fit fan to Egg
  • DoubleEgger
    DoubleEgger Posts: 19,169
    Sounds like air gap. Loosen both nuts and push down on the dome pretty hard while you tighten the nuts. It’s a one person job as I had to do it a couple weeks ago.  I had temp creep on a test burn after reassembling my egg after a move. 

    The smokeware cap is going to leak some air by design. You adjust for that by varying your vent settings. If you can’t get to your required temps after adjusting the dome, then a cap gasket is the next step I’d take along with checking the silicone seal around the lower vent. 
  • Sirk98
    Sirk98 Posts: 79
    @Sirk98 - I bought my XL from a buddy of mine in the spring. He had burned off the top gasket and the thing was leaking smoke like crazy between the top and bottom. I played around with some of the gaskets that are widely used on this site but for me that didn't solve my problem. I struggled and over thought this whole thing!  I ended up loosening my bands and seating the lid the best I could.  I installed the BGE felt gasket to the lid and base (I know this is blasphemy to some). Now I know longer have a smoke leak. I still don't pass the dollar bill test but I am able to maintain temps for long cooks. This is all that matters to me.

    I use the Tip top temp (https://www.amazon.com/Attachable-Grill-Temperature-Regulator-TTT-02/dp/B0764T8386/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1513027812&sr=8-1&keywords=tip+top+temp) coupled with a HVAC reducer (https://www.amazon.com/UNITED-STATES-HDW-MFG-HA/dp/B000BQT748/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1513027864&sr=8-1&keywords=UNITED+STATES+HDW+MFG/U+S+HA+GV0784-A+6x5+Reducer/Increaser) and have very pleased with the ability to hold temps without fuss. 
    My Auber used to do a fantastic job.  I am just thinking that I either am starting with too much 'glowing coals' after using torch to light lump, or I have air getting in there some how...