Big Green Egg - EGGhead Forum - The Ultimate Cooking Experience...
Welcome to the EGGhead Forum - a great place to visit and packed with tips and EGGspert advice! You can also join the conversation and get more information and amazing kamado recipes by following Big Green Egg at:

Facebook  |  Twitter  |  Instagram  |  Pinterest  |  Youtube  |  Vimeo
Share your photos by tagging us and using the hashtag #EGGhead4Life.

In Atlanta? Come visit Big Green Egg headquarters, including our retail showroom, the History of the EGG Museum and Culinary Center!  3786 DeKalb Technology Parkway, Atlanta, GA 30340.

BGE Table - Wood help

JDJD Posts: 30
edited 1:47AM in EggHead Forum
I'm trying to build a table for my egg... I'm good on the design, but...
Can anyone help me with what type of wood they used to build a table (pressure treated pine, regular pine, red oak, etc.)? Also, what type of finish did you use to stain or seal it?[p]ANY suggestions are welcome! Thanks for your help!


  • JD,
    I used 5/4 cedar for my table top for my large egg table and 3/4 exterior plywood with an oak veneer and oak trim for my small egg table. I used 4x4 cedar posts for the legs on both tables. I then used Spar varnish to seal the the tables. Below is a link to my tables on the Naked Whiz's web site.[p]Large egg table[p]

    [ul][li]Small egg table[/ul]
    Everyday is Saturday and tomorrow is always Sunday.
  • Celtic WolfCeltic Wolf Posts: 9,773
    JD,[p] I am going to use Maple or Oak. I think pine is too soft.
  • BOBFBOBF Posts: 177
    JD,[p]I am using cypress for an XL table. Stained with a natural stain. Sealed with Teak Oil and then polyurethaned. Look I am an absolute amateur and am not finished, but it is looking pretty good so far. Used 4X4's for the legs.

  • JD,
    I built mine out of Mahogany (1x4's mostly and 2x4 legs) and just used a watersealer on it. The watersealer was Behr brand that they carry at Home Depot. I would've used Thompson's Watersealer, but I couldn't find it that day.[p]I live in New England so I want to make sure I'm using a good exterior wood- like something they would use on boats or to make house shingles. Good exterior wood I couldn't find at Home Depot, had to go to a real lumberyard for that.[p]Make sure you put wheels on it! That table was gettin' heavy before I put the 140lb egg in it. I need to move mine around a lot (keeping it in the garage for now) but even if you don't think you'll have to move it once in awhile, be safe and put the wheels on.[p]I'd post a photo, but I'm new and don't know how.

  • I forgot to mention- I have found polyurethane finishes don't weather well and Oak hasn't done too well outdoors for me either. Polyurethane looks fantastic at first, but then the finish gets cracky and thins out and the wood gets grey. Any wood outdoors will require maintenance, but I think you're better off with a penetrating stain or sealer. [p] The oak rocker on my screened porch started out with urethane but now I'm thinking paint is my best hope to salvage it.

  • Flashback Bob,[p]I would suggest using Cedar if you can get it... Best wood for outside. I have 12 cottages by the ocean, they have all been sided with cedar. Haven't touched them in 8 years. They look as good today as the day they were built. Behr has some good outdoor finishes... Poly is no good for outside. Varnish is the same as poly really... An outdoor stain with antiUV and anti-mould would work the best. Redo the stain every 3-5 years...[p]
  • JD, As mentioned earlier cedar, cypress and white oak are good and less expensive choices for outdoor use. Teak and mahogany are excellent choices, but are costly. These woods are all strong and easy to work with. Cypress and cedar weather well and are often left unfinished. UV is the great enemy of outdoor finishes. Marine varnishes have more UV inhibiters but are still susceptible and will were require redoing every three years or so when left outside with full sun and weather exposure. Once the UV breaks starts to break down the finish it is vulnerable to water damage, so if you can keep your table out of direct sun light and protected it from rain and snow you can extend the life of the finish. A cover will help as will storing it under roof.[p]Regards, Bill

  • BOBFBOBF Posts: 177
    Flashback Bob,[p]Thanks for the heads up on the Polyurethane. It was recommended by the guy at Lowes. I will just finish the top deck of the table with stain/sealer and Teak Oil. The lower part will not get the exposure and should hold up - not much choice now anyway since it is already done.

  • tach18ktach18k Posts: 1,607
    Retired RailRoader, Question, How did you seal the stone in the top so the weather doesnt seep between the stone and table top? Did you put any weep holes under it to allow any moisture to drain?

  • outleft.jpg
    <p />JD,
    I did mine out of western red cedar from Lowe's. I finished with Sikkens Cetol 1, 2-3 products. I did a LOT of research on outdoor finishes before I selected this, and it has held up very very well. I really wish I had used this on my deck as well. It's kind of hard to find, and a bit more expensive, and there was only one place in Charlotte that carried it (and wouldn't you know it was on the complete opposite side of town). Look on at the "exterior finishes" for more detail and to find a local dealer.[p]Hope this helps![p]- Mike

  • wobinwobin Posts: 211
    Charcoal Mike,
    Mike, is that a large or medium egg?
    Thanks Glenn

  • wobin,[p]That is my one and only large.[p]I want a second small to go with......maybe someday....[p]Cheers![p]- Mike

  • JD,
    I used western red cedar (not really red--actually a tan color) 2X4's. 8-footers were about $5 each. The 1X4's that I wanted to use for the shelves were warped so i ripped and planed the 2X4's and made them into 1X4's.[p]I have religiously used a cover since I haven't yet treated the wood-- as was previously mentioned I'll use an exterior deck stain (no color) rather than polyurethane.

Sign In or Register to comment.
Click here for Forum Use Guidelines.