Springs pulling lid open to a crack

Huub · April 2016

Hello guys,

Long time lurker, new member here. I've gotten a lot of useful info, tips and recipes on this forum before and I love it.

I have a BGE large. I got if off the Internet, secondhand. I absolutely love it, my kitchen stove is basically gathering dust.

I did notice a problem with my egg, the springs pull open the lid when the lid is down. I am also experiencing a slight underbite on the lid.

I tightened the hinge bands, after replacing the bolts that were in there (the original ones were worn). I tightened them to the point that the new bolts are bending under the load. I read that that's normal, and actually essential for proper operation.

I also reset the springs as per this thread: http://eggheadforum.com/discussion/1033301/egg-underbite

Neither action worked, and I removed 1 of the 2 springs, to get the lid to stay closed. This actually works well, but I'm afraid that sometime in the future the single spring won't be able to keep the lid open, with damage as a result.

Has anyone else experienced the same issue? Is there a solution, short of replacing the hinge assy?

Thanks guys.

caliking · April 2016

It's possibly because the egg was pulled by the handle to move it around (if it was in a nest). I noticed that the XL's at the Athens fest had some wobble when the lid was being closed when we were cooking on them.

You may be able to take the band assembly off and gently twist it back to the right configuration.

RRP · April 2016

Regarding the leaking dome issue as you described I believe your dome and base as out of whack “plane” wise. That is, when closed the base and dome should come together in the same plane. Unless your dome or base or both have manufacturing defects then here’s how to correct the leaking.

Close your dome and then loosen the bolts which secure the bands which typically are on the side one above the other. When loose enough you should be able to force the dome and base together. I have suggested placing a board across the top opening of the dome and have a child or spouse sit on it! Just don’t make fun of your wife and no pictures allowed! If no takers to sit then I personally have used a 2 x 4 on that same top opening and then using 2 4’ wood working clamps the force the dome and base together. Mere gravity will not be sufficient.

Here is a link to a picture of the clamping method:

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Ronald44/media/IMG_0415.jpg.html

Now whether human weigh or clamping the next thing is to tighten your band bolts. That should shift your dome and base together thereby eliminating your leak.

Please let me know if this fix worked for you.

Huub · April 2016

Thanks for the tip, I'll get to that in the morning (7.30pm here). It looks that that might be the case, as the opening in the lid is always on the same side in the same position.

Thanks

Huub · April 2016

Thanks RRP, my wifes weight can't compete with a set of working clamps. I tried this solution before, but I'm afraid my hinge assy is bent out of shape as caliking suggests. When i loosen the bands, they shift out of plane far enough that they don't line up with the dome at all.

I'll see about forcing the hinge back into alignment.

bhedges1987 · April 2016

Get it as close as you can and never mess with it again

pgprescott · April 2016

Show us a picture of the bands. I would guess they are pushed too far up/down on the ceramic haunches. They need to be parallel and the leading edges should line up with the transition between the gasket and the ceramics. It is human nature to think they should be pushed further onto the haunch, but that is usually the culprit for misalignment issues.

Huub · April 2016

Thanks for the replies guys, pictures below. Now that you mention it, the bands are too far apart. I'll see into the hinge after my morning coffee.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5017260/uploads/editor/8z/2nbk3yo0ng8g.jpg

pgprescott · April 2016

This is definitely your problem right there. They need to be parallel and lined up with the edge of the ceramics both top and bottom. You should never have to mess with the pre-assembled hinge mechanism at all. Your dealer should have some plastic spacers that you can use to make the band spacing quite simple.

Huub · April 2016

Thanks Prescott, I've contacted the nearest dealer to get the tabs. They're pretty far away and i don't really want to drive for a few hours just for 3 pieces of plastic, so I'll ask if they'll mail them.

Is there any use in trying to bend the hinge back into shape without the bands placed properly?

pgprescott · April 2016

Huub said:

Thanks Prescott, I've contacted the nearest dealer to get the tabs. They're pretty far away and i don't really want to drive for a few hours just for 3 pieces of plastic, so I'll ask if they'll mail them.

Is there any use in trying to bend the hinge back into shape without the bands placed properly?

I wouldn't touch the hinge. Not totally sure what the situation is based on the photos, but I would get the bands in the correct alignment and go from there.
I assume the new band bolts are the correct grade of bolt? I think they are supposed to be grade 5?

Huub · April 2016

It's a EU 8.8 grade bolt, as far as i can tell that's equivalent to a grade 5 US.

Huub · April 2016

My dealer sent me an adjustment kit. (the clips and spacers) I had to do it a few times to get it right, but it works like a new egg. The problem was a combination of the 2 mentioned earlier.

My hinge was slightly bent, which prevented the hinge from over-centering, and thus preventing proper closing. Readjusting everything with this bent hinge prevented me from getting the proper hinge geometry.

I placed the hinge on my workbench and worked on it until the clips went on without problem.

Installing everything afterwards was easy and the egg closes perfectly.

Thanks everyone.

Springs pulling lid open to a crack

Comments

Categories