Big Green Egg - EGGhead Forum - The Ultimate Cooking Experience...
Welcome to the EGGhead Forum - a great place to visit and packed with tips and EGGspert advice! You can also join the conversation and get more information and amazing kamado recipes by following Big Green Egg at:

Facebook  |  Twitter  |  Instagram  |  Pinterest  |  Youtube  |  Vimeo
Share your photos by tagging us and using the hashtag #EGGhead4Life.

In Atlanta? Come visit Big Green Egg headquarters, including our retail showroom, the History of the EGG Museum and Culinary Center!  3786 DeKalb Technology Parkway, Atlanta, GA 30340.

What type of wood for the table?

I'm going to build a table for the Large egg in the next couple of weeks and am shopping around for wood. I am using Naked Whiz's table as my guide.
I talked to the specialty lumber store and they suggested white oak, teak and mahogany as good outdoor woods. Pricing on these, especially mahogany and teak is up there.
My other choice, a more value oriented choice, would be to build the legs and frames out of a cheaper wood and do the top with the more expensive wood.
Any suggestions are appreciated.


  • BizGreenEggBizGreenEgg Posts: 284
    Cedar. Some guys have used Ipe but it's $$$ and can be difficult to work with.
    Large BGE & mini stepchild & a KJ Jr.
    The damp PNW 
  • nolaeggheadnolaegghead Posts: 26,676
    edited June 2013
    You can use any kind of wood you want as long as you seal it well (on all sides before you assemble).  Do not use treated wood for the top.

    If you can find recycled old growth cypress, it's cheap and as good as it gets for water and rot resistance.

    Redwood, cedar, oak, teak, Sipo, mahogany, cypress are all commonly used outdoors.  Seal it, cover it and take care of it and it'll last for years, although you'll need maintenance now and then.
    This is my signature line just so you're not confused.  Love me or hate me, I am forum Marmite.
    Large and Medium BGE, Kamado Joe Jr, Akorn Jr, smoker with a 5k btu AC, gas grill, fire pit, pack of angry cats, two turntables and a microphone, my friend.  Registered republican.
    New Orleans, LA - we know how to eat 

  • WolfpackWolfpack Posts: 2,650
    Ipe- hard to work with, heavy as lead, and expensive- what's not to love? But you won't have to build another one
    Greensboro, NC
  • Drewdlc17Drewdlc17 Posts: 124
    Go ahead and buy a nicer wood. Otherwise you will regret it in the future. Good luck!
  • henapplehenapple Posts: 15,986
    Ipe really isn't much tougher to work with than oak. Consider a solid or tile top. Clean up is easier and has more heat resistance.
    Green egg, dead animal and alcohol. The "Boro".. TN 
  • Vegas EggusVegas Eggus Posts: 135
    I would go with a solid top. Probably granite. Have the BGE table that I stained and put Spar on it. It is two years old and needs redone despite keeping it covered when not in use. I have also accidentally dropped coals out of the chimney starter and burnt the top in a couple of places. It is really hard to keep clean and looking good.
  • KennyLeeKennyLee Posts: 782
    I like cedar for cost, weatherability and easy to work with.  As someone said above, if you used treated, don't use it on top, but maybe for bottom shelf and/or trusses.


    Cedar table w/granite top

    Ceramic Grillworks two-tier swing rack

    Perpetual cooler of ice-cold beer

  • MotobossMotoboss Posts: 19

    Believe it or not I bought Tiger Maple from a lumber mill cheaper than any other hardwood from the big stores. I used cedar 4x4 for legs and had a solid top and solid bottom shelf made along with all the stringer boards for under $ 250.00. After assembly time all I have left to do is sand and finish before it's ready to use. Check for local lumber mill or Amish saw mills....<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

    Being a painter by trade, for what it’s worth, I do not recommend using Spar Varnish to finish any outside furniture. It is a maintenance problem and with neglect will deteriorate severely. Spar is a topcoat sealer that dries on the surface thereby being  damaged easier by weather expansion and contraction.

    Outdoor material needs something that will absorb into the wood to prevent moisture from wicking onto the wood. Teak oil, boiled linseed oil or similar absorbing, waterproof oil's is your best bet. Apply a coat or two every few years and the furniture will last for years. Maintenance application is as easy as putting on a coat of water. I am using the Cabot Aussy Oil in Amber tone and believe it will be a good looking, long lasting finish. After through drying time I will hand rub several coats of J&J hard wood paste wax on the top for a complete water repellent finish (think solid finished flooring)



    Is this thing on? I see smoke.........
  • StoicDudeStoicDude Posts: 80
    Thank you for all your suggestions guys. I am still figuring out what I will do. When I'm done, I will post it for sure.
  • JGM411JGM411 Posts: 7
    Cypress, Cedar, Redwood are traditional woods for outdoor use.  Teak, White Oak and Ipe would also be on my list.

    Cypress mills beautifully and it grays out slowly if you use no protection.  it's a look.  I have a planter box that has been outside for 3 years and it still has not grayed out completely.

    Teak has a lot of oil in it and is hard on saw blades.  Ipe is beautiful but heavy.

    White Oak is heavier than cypress and it mills up nicely. 

    I used red oak for my table because I had a bunch of it lying around.  I suspect that if I don't re-seal it with a marine grade spar varnish, I will see it blacken.  I would not recommend red oak.

Sign In or Register to comment.
Click here for Forum Use Guidelines.