Big Green Egg - EGGhead Forum - The Ultimate Cooking Experience...
Welcome to the EGGhead Forum - a great place to visit and packed with tips and EGGspert advice! You can also join the conversation and get more information and amazing kamado recipes by following Big Green Egg at:

Facebook  |  Twitter  |  Instagram  |  Pinterest  |  Youtube  |  Vimeo
Share your photos by tagging us and using the hashtag #EGGhead4Life.

In Atlanta? Come visit Big Green Egg headquarters, including our retail showroom, the History of the EGG Museum and Culinary Center!  3786 DeKalb Technology Parkway, Atlanta, GA 30340.

Gasket Replacement - Permatex Ultra Copper ques

certified_primecertified_prime Posts: 32
edited 7:40PM in EggHead Forum
So my felt gasket is gone. Lasted all of 2 months. Once the weather warms up, I'll replace it. (My egg now seeps some smoke around a couple edges during a low and slow, and it was a bit more difficult to manage a low temp and keep it stable, so I'm hoping a new gasket will be of some benefit during overnight smokes when constant temp control is critical).

I've researched threads on this forum that suggest making a gasket out of Permatex Ultra-Copper alone. One egger just applied a bead all the way around the bottom, put wax paper on top, and lowered the top. I assume that method would create a nice perfect seal all the way around, and account for any waviness between the top and bottom surfaces.

What is the added benefit of putting the Cotronics or the Rutland on as a fabric gasket (and using the Permatex just as an adhesive)? Is it anything other than just aesthetics at that point?


  • BobSBobS Posts: 2,485
    I will be interested in the answer. I have Rutlands on mine - installed with the Permatex Ultra-Copper.

    I recall someone posting a picture where they were trying to make a gasket, with the Ultra-Copper, as you describe, but I don't remember any follow-up on how well it worked.

    I wonder if the was paper actually released?
  • NC-CDNNC-CDN Posts: 703
    I have a tube too and was thinking of doing this as well. Didn't know about using the wax paper. Would love to know if it's been done (I'm sure it has) and how it worked and how it was done to make a nice seal.

    Mine leaks smoke too, but I have no probs maintaining temps, although most low n slows are done with a Guru.
  • srq2625srq2625 Posts: 262
    I saw that post as well and tried it. Maybe it was just me, but I couldn't get it to work for me. I just couldn't get a smooth even bead around the entire egg.

    So, I got a 5/8" x 84" Rutland Tape (#90) and some more of the PermaTex. Put some of the gasket maker down on the rim of the base, ran the Rutland around it, and cut it to size. Because of the way the Rutland end virtually exploded on me (it's fiberglass after all), I used some of the gasket maker to seal the ends together, put some wax paper on top of the glob and settled the dome down on top of it. The next day, the wax paper came right off - easy ... peasy.

    My Rutland tape gasket still leaks just a bit but not bad.
  • Here's the last post about how to do "an only Ultra-copper" gasket:

    I tried it 2 days ago, (used a heat lamp to get everything warm) but I did not take the dome off, like I wished I had now (couldn't get around the hinge that great) and I also didn't put it on thick enough, or else I squeeged off too much with my plywood tool I made.
    The egg leaks far too much, though maybe I could adjust the hinges to account for it.
    Tomorrow I plan on laying some nice fat (neat, hopefully) beads all around the whole base, on top of what is already there to thicken it up some.
    I think it should work ok.
  • I don't use any gasket and it does not affect low and slow cooks at all.

    You may have to readjust your intake air setting from what you are used to but that is no big deal.

    Now if you could not control a new intake air hole that would be a different story.
  • Update on the permatex gasket I installed that Ricklesss provided a link to.

    Not having any problems with the gasket.

    Suggestion - see if you can find a thin piece of scrap metal, ie. 1/8" carbon or aluminum and make a jig that rides on the ledge that the band sits on and is tight to the ID and OD of the base. I think it will provide a much smoother surface as compared to the wooden one I made. The depth of the slot should approximate the thickness of the two felt gaskets plus the distance down to the ledge. Can easily wipe any excess material off of the ID/OD just after applying. Can't remember the open time but it's just a couple hours. I did mine in the evening and used it the next morning. If you use a jig, you should get a uniform thickness and simply leave the dome open. Only have to apply to the base.

    Good luck with it if this is the way you decide to geaux.
  • How "Spongy" is your Permatex gasket? Would it be better to have a thicker one so that it compresses better and forms a seal?
  • NC-CDNNC-CDN Posts: 703
    My question would be this. Do you let it start to cure (set-up) and then close the lid to compress the permatex prior to it completely drying or do you just let it dry completely and still get a good seal due to the compression of the product when the lid is closed? I would assume if you watched it until it set-up a bit, then closed the lid on it with some wax paper it wouldn't stick too bad and would still have enough pliability to form to the EGG while the lid is pressing on the bottom and give a nice seal.

    Just curious. Hope my question made sense. If you did find a few spots with leaks you could top them up with more perm then eh.
  • My gasket also went bad in first couple months. I replaced it with Rutland using Permatex ultra copper. Haven't looked back and that was over a year ago.
    Large & MiniMax in Lexington, KY
  • Not spongy. You can press on it and deflect it locally with ssy your finger but I doubt you could measure any compression with the weight of the dome being distributed equally across the gasket.
  • I just let it set up with the dome open. If you use a jig and get it uniform, there is no need to use paper and close the dome. See above suggestion on jig.
  • Frank, I think that's a great idea, about making the squeegee so that it rides at a uniform height.
    I looked (briefly) at the edge and concluded it wasn't worth the effort of making such a tool,and also that "I could just do it by hand, and guestimate" the thickness. (wrong on both accounts,I do believe!)
    Since I need to add some thickness, I think I will make a new squeegee, like you suggest.
    I really do think this may be the way to go, using an all Ultra-Copper gasket, as the factory and Nomex gaskets just do not last all that long, generally speaking. Weak link, for sure, of the BGE.
    I wished I could just be happy about using no gasket at all, but: (1)I just don't like the "clang" the dome makes upon closing.. (even gently)
    (2) plus, mine just doesn't seem to seal all that well with no gasket,(especially with low-n-slo's), and (3) I'm sick of buying gaskets.
    You'd think, as high tech as the world is getting, there would be "The Answer" for a super high temp, adhesive gasket that doesn't burn up, or peel off.
    (Oh yeah, that's safe around food...)
    Sorry, rant off...
  • i'm the guy who"invented" the rtv gasket many years ago....any questions.... let me know... thanks! ranger ray
  • ranger ray wrote:
    i'm the guy who"invented" the rtv gasket many years ago....any questions.... let me know... thanks! ranger ray

    Hey ranger ray! Howdy! :)
    Did you post a thread about it?
    How did you do it? Did you make a "custom spreading tool" (squeegee, I love that word) or freehand?
    How long ago did you do it, and how's she holding up?
    Many high-temp cooks?
    You said I could ask...:laugh:
    The sun's shining so today might be the day to complete mine..
Sign In or Register to comment.
Click here for Forum Use Guidelines.