Detailed Table Report (lots of photos)

WileECoyote · April 2008

I reviewed well over a hundred table photos and at least a dozen sets of plans, many of which can be found on TNW’s excellent site, however nothing fit my needs exactly so I broke out the straight edge and pencil to sketch my own table plans. I initially envisioned something cheap and simple to keep costs low. I had just spent way more on the egg and accessories than I had originally planned and the wife was starting to raise an eyebrow at the growing pile of grilling stuff, none of which had been necessary for my old and recently-abandoned gas grill. After several trips to the local Lowes hardware store I decided to make a few small upgrades to the table but I was still set on using basic materials and simple construction methods which would be practical for almost anyone to build. I estimated that my table would cost about $200 and be fully built in a single weekend. I should have known better.

The table project went the same route as my egg purchase. One thing led to another and before you know it I was adding a new feature or tweak to the table almost every night, making at least a dozen trips to Lowes, Walmart, flea markets, etc. to pickup additional parts and accessories. I finally had to quit out of sheer exhaustion. I just couldn’t bear to spend another night up in the workshop away from my lovely wife, who just happened to drop a few hints that the workshop might become my permanent residence if I spent any more time up there working on the table. So here is a description of my egg table project complete with lots of photos for your review.

Features:
[ul][li]Spacious table with lots of counter space (approximately 6’ wide x 3’ deep x 3’ tall)[/li]
[li]Two fully enclosed shelves to store nearly everything including lump, wood chips, cookware, electronics, egg tools, etc.[/li]
[li]Three sliding front doors allow easy access to contents, can be left open or closed during use without getting in the way, outer doors can be removed if needed[/li]
[li]Lots of stainless towel bars and hooks for hanging towels, grilling tools, gloves, etc.[/li]
[li]Front and back stainless grab handles allow table to be moved easily in any direction[/li]
[li]Tile top, cedar rails, vinyl siding, and urethane finish make it virtually weatherproof and should last for many years with very little maintenance[/li]
[li]LED lights for egg, counter top, and shelves, can be switched on or off independently[/li]
[li]Power vent fan can be switched to three modes: blower, exhaust, or off[/li]
[li]Rechargeable battery powers lights and vent fan, automatically recharged by solar panel during the day[/li][/ul]
Materials & Cost:
(quantities and prices are approximate and do not include tax)
[ul][li]Legs: top grade pine 2"x6"x8’ (qty. 2, $18)[/li]
[li]Shelf support rails: top grade pine 2"x4"x8’ (qty. 8, $32)[/li]
[li]Shelves: project grade oak 19/32" 4’x8’ plywood (qty. 3, $50)[/li]
[li]Egg support: split firebrick 9”x4.5”x1.25” (qty. 8, $16)[/li]
Counter top:
[li]1/4" 3’x5’ cement hardi-backer board installed over plywood base (qty. 1, $10)[/li]
[li]16"x16" ceramic floor tile (qty. 8, $32)[/li]
[li]Gray thinset mortar bag (qty. 1, $10)[/li]
[li]SpectraLOCK acrylic epoxy grout system including small pail kit and Hemp dye carton (qty. 1, $35)[/li]
[li]Automotive-grade EPDM rubber camper topper seal kit for the inside edge of the egg hole when not in use (qty. 1, $10)[/li]
[li]Counter top side trim: top grade cedar 2"x6"x8’ (qty. 2, $16)[/li]
Sides, back, and front doors:
[li]1/4" 4’x8’ furniture-grade luan plywood, doors have two layers of plywood for additional strength (qty. 2, $20)[/li]
[li]Almond vinyl siding 12”x12’ (qty. 5, $30)[/li]
[li]Almond vinyl siding J-channel 12’ (qty. 3, $15)[/li]
[li]Aluminum siding starter track 8’ (qty. 3, $12)[/li]
Front doors:
[li]Stainless sliding drawer tracks 18” (qty. 4, $45)[/li]
[li]Stainless sliding drawer tracks 22” (qty. 2, $30)[/li]
[li]Brushed stainless handles (qty. 3, $12)[/li]
Air vent:
[li]Almond siding dryer vent (qty. 1, $6)[/li]
[li]12 volt DC fan (qty. 1, $5)[/li]
[li]PVC pipe elbows to direct airflow (qty. 3, $6)[/li]
[li]Wheels: 4" hard rubber casters taken from a 1000 lb. moving dolly (qty. 4, $10)[/li]
Wood treatment:
[li]Two coats of Minwax Polyshades oil-based urethane and Pecan stain (qty. 2 quarts, $20)[/li]
[li]Wood putty for all screw holes (qty. 1 jar, $3)[/li]
Fasteners:
[li]Coated deck screws[/li]
[li]Stainless steel bolts[/li]
[li]1/2” staples[/li]
Trim:
[li]Brushed stainless steel towel bars (qty. 2, $16)[/li]
[li]Brushed stainless steel accessory hooks (qty. 2, $8)[/li]
[li]Brushed stainless steel grab handles (qty. 4, $16)[/li]
Electronics:
[li]Stainless battery-powered 4.5 volt LED grill lights (qty. 2, $30)[/li]
[li]Black plastic battery-powered 4.5 volt LED shelf lights (qty. 6, $6)[/li]
[li]12 volt rechargeable battery taken from an old Craftsman drill (qty. 1, $2)[/li]
[li]12 volt solar panel with charging circuit (qty. 1, $12)[/li]
[li]Black plastic project box (qty. 1, $2)[/li]
[li]SPST toggle switches (qty. 2, $6)[/li]
[li]DPDT toggle switch (qty. 1, $3)[/li]
[li]15 ohm ½ watt resistors (qty. 2, $1)[/li]
[li]22 awg stranded copper two-conductor wire (qty. 30’, $3)[/li][/ul]
Approximate total cost not including tax: $548

Approximate time to build including design, experimenting, finishing, and many trips to the store: 50 hours

Photos:

[ol][li]Front of the table with all doors closed

[/li]
[li]Left door open to adjust draft vent

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[li]Left and middle doors open to reach accessories in the middle

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[li]All three doors open for best access to the shelves

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[li]Left door removed for extended grilling sessions

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[li]Left door removed and right door open for two shelf openings

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[li]Right door removed for frequent accessory handling

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[li]Middle door protecting the egg from wind or drafts

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[li]Rear of the table with counter top light and grab handles

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[li]Rear wall of the table

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[li]Left side with towel bar and egg light

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[li]Left side with power fan vent beneath the egg light

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[li]Left side egg light mounted to side rail

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[li]Left corner with egg light, towel bar, and hook mounted

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[li]Right side of the table

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[li]Right side showing towel bar and solar panel

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[li]Left side of counter top

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[li]Right side of counter top

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[li]Looking into the egg hole from the front

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[li]Looking into the egg hole from the left side

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[li]Shelf cut out with support rails to hold firebrick (from above)

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[li]Shelf cut out with support rails to hold firebrick (from front)

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[li]Firebrick installed (from above)

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[li]Firebrick installed (from front)

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[li]Right door removed

[/li]
[li]Right side showing track cutout for sliding door

[/li]
[li]Switch box for controlling lights and fan

[/li]
[li]LED lights on bottom shelf

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[li]LED lights on top shelf

[/li]
[li]Top shelf looking at inside of power fan vent (fan is not installed yet)

[/li]
[li]Plug for rechargeable battery in lower right corner

[/li][/ol]
Lessons Learned:
[ul][li]Building your own table is quite fun and it provides a great sense of accomplishment however it is easy to get carried away. Think this through and plan your budget / workshop time carefully lest you end up in divorce court.[/li]
[li]A quality table will last you forever so take your time and do it right, or at least as right as the budget and wife will allow.[/li]
[li]I initially hesitated to add the tile top, vinyl siding, and sliding doors since this more than doubled the cost of the table however I am really glad that I did it now. It looks great and will last a lot longer plus the storage areas are kept clean and dry when not in use.[/li]
[li]I haven’t figured out where I am going to put everything inside the table yet. It might have been better to use the table for a while before bolting on all the bars, hooks, and handles but I think it will work out ok.[/li]
[li]Use ONLY split firebrick and the BGE feet as a base for the egg, keeping the shelf cutout beneath the firebrick. More on this important topic to be posted in a separate thread soon.[/li]
[li]The electronics package was an awesome addition and reasonably cheap too. It is so much easier to grill at night now and the LED lights don’t get hot or attract bugs like normal lights would.[/li][/ul]

Well that is it for now. I am just about done rebuilding my egg so I will take some pics of it and post those in another thread soon to show how it looks inside the table. Hope you enjoyed this report.

Celtic Wolf · April 2008

WOW if ever someone needed a web site..

Nice table though....

Spring Chicken · April 2008

Lots of good ideas. There's even enough room for a second BGE when the time comes.

I'm with CW, you need a web site or a blog site to show off your table and future cooks.

Spring "Still In Sleep Mode" Chicken
Spring Texas USA

Clay Q · April 2008

Looks like you had a good time building your own table. Lot's of interesting features, custom work and personal touches. I'm sure your going to have fun using it.
Enjoy your custom table, looking forward to a follow up! :cheer:

citychicken · April 2008

geeze if she didn't kill you for the time you spent building the table - your post might have pushed her over the edge.

thanks for the most thorough set of plans ever posted here. great ideas.

Wonka · April 2008

BEAUTIFUL table! How did you end up cutting the circular hole in the tile? I've had my materials sitting in my garage for two months while I ponder that question.

Eggtucky · April 2008

dude!!!...get a website!...took me 3 mins to dl that post using DSL! YOu must be lagging the whole forum!!..lol...very nice and COMPLETE job...but waaaaay too much info on a forum :blink: :blink: love the table btw

BamaBackdraft · April 2008

Good looking table! I'll give you $600.00 for it :woohoo:

:cheer:

!

WileECoyote · April 2008

Thanks for the comments gang.

Wonka: I know what you mean. I also delayed my construction while I researched options for cutting the tile. I was planning to cut the tile with my Craftsman scroll saw using special diamond-coated tile blades but then I decided to check with a local floor tile store to see if they could help. Their main installer agreed to meet me out back of their store early one morning and he cut the tile for me in about an hour including setup time. I only needed 4 tiles cut and I had marked them in advance by setting them in place and using a thick pencil to trace the egg hole on the bottom side. He used a commercial wet tile saw and cut a bunch of long straight lines perpendicular to the curve, then he made a series of small cuts parallel with the curve to break off all the teeth. Once the majority of the hole was cut out he used tile nippers to clean up the curves and it came out pretty good. He did this work at 6:00 am with his hands immersed in cold water in 30 degree weather so I gave him $40 for his help. You can probably find a local tile store to do the same for a lot less, especially if they don't need to setup their equipment just for you.

I already own and manage a number of websites so I plan to create a BGE area on one of them eventually. Right now I don't have enough content for it and I don't have the time to maintain it but maybe I will get around to it this summer.

WileECoyote · April 2008

I just changed the photo resolution to cut the total file size down from 6.5 MB to 3.0 MB so the post should load a lot faster now. I tend to ignore that since most people have high speed connections these days but the forum does seem to take a while to process the post on the first load so I made the photos a bit smaller. Hope this helps.

Cajun · April 2008

Very nice Job!!!

Looks well thought out and well put together.

Cajun

ChefBrian · April 2008

V ery nice work. Got me to thinking about a few things I would have not. I have a temporary table set up for cooking a while until I decide what I really need in my table. I am looking forward to the "Great Table Build" myself soon.

Ross in Ventura · April 2008

Good Job and good concept you should be proud of your self!
My Best,
Ross

WileECoyote · April 2008

For those that didn't see it, I also posted pics of my egg which was painted gold to match the table. Here is the thread.

[Deleted User] · April 2008

Wow! That is one helluva table!

not to be an old fart/party pooper, but picture #22 has me concerned.

It looks like you have cleats on two ends and one 5/4 x 4 in the middle on which you have set your firebrick splits.

Now you will be setting your large on top of that.

My concerns are:
1 - I don't know if the splits alone will carry the load that will be imposed upon them, rather than having a piece of plywood under them.
2 - the support members in the middle and on the ends are oriented such that their weakest axis will be carrying the load. I believe it will deflect and maybe break. You might want to consider shoring it up before you put the Egg in.

this is mine in progress. Please note the orientation of the framing members and the quantity. At this time I was still considering recessing a stone to set the Egg on. Because I wasn't sure of the exact stone I would use, I ran the lower shelf straight thru and sat the stone on top.

WileECoyote · April 2008

Thanks for the note Flashback.

The main support rail which runs under the center of the egg is a solid 2x4 which is firmly bolted to the frame cross-members on both ends. I think it alone could handle the 150 lb. weight of the egg but I wanted additional support rails to hold the firebricks. The secondary support rails at the front and back of the firebrick cutout are also solid 2x4 although I didn't run them down the entire length of the table.

I didn't originally design the shelf to be cutout. It was a solid sheet of 19/32 plywood supported by the three 2x4 frame rails until a few weeks ago when I did some testing with various base materials under the egg. I found out that a single piece of tile is not an adequate base for the egg and my shelf was burnt / charred in less than 2 hours of cooking at dome temps under 400. So to make a long story short I did a lot of technical research and found that it is best not to have solid wood under the egg at all, thus I cutout the shelf to form a recess which would hold the 18x18 firebrick base.

I am closely monitoring the firebrick and support rails to make sure that they do not weaken or get too hot. If it looks even a little questionable then I will just install additional support rails, probably solid iron rebar rods or flat iron stock. I plan to post a new thread with the results of my research on the egg base, stone, tile, firebrick, etc. but it will take me a little bit to get it all typed up and cross-checked. I am also running it by BGE corp. to make sure I didn't miss anything. If my findings are correct then I expect BGE will want to revisit their recommendation of using only a concrete paving stone.

[Deleted User] · April 2008

Ok, just so long as you're still keeping an eye on everything.

The splits will be load bearing on their weakest axis also, that and they will be performing in a way that they were not designed to do. Bricks are designed to be strong in compression (stacked) but they don't need to be strong in tension (which is created when you span between supports) because they are meant to be stacked. Having one slab of stone supported on 4 sides and the middle is different than having 8 little slabs, each supported on 2 ends.

Doesn't mean it won't work, just want you going in knowing what might be a problem. Sounds like you have plan "B" ready anyhow, so good luck and I hope it all works out great!

The beauty of the Egg table design problem is that there is no one right way to do it. Everyone has a variation on the theme that works for them!

WileECoyote · April 2008

You raise a good point about the firebrick being unsupported in the middle. I did that intentionally to minimize the contact between the wood and brick. The brick will get very hot and based on my research it is unsafe to have it in significant direct contact with wood. By opening the bottom it allows the air to cool the brick faster and it minimizes the chance of the wood being charred or ignited. I don't think the support is an issue since the weight of the egg is distributed evenly across 3 feet which rest on a total of 4 bricks, so there is only about 40 lbs. of weight supported per brick and 20 lbs. of load on each end of the brick.

Still, I do see this as a possible risk since the brick may become more brittle over time and if it does crack then it would probably crack in the middle. Just to be on the safe side I will run a piece of thick flat iron under the middle of each row of firebricks and bolt the iron to the shelf. The iron will provide additional heat absorption without increasing the brick to wood contact area and still allowing the air cooling to take place.

Thanks for pointing that out.

Detailed Table Report (lots of photos)

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