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Really Really OT: Radon gas abatement

RRP
RRP Posts: 25,880
edited November -1 in EggHead Forum
Looks like my whole neighborhood is going into a group panic mode after one homeowner had their Radon gas test come back at a high rating of 20 where 5 or below is considered safe. Years ago our home tested at a 4. I started a new 96 hour test this morning myself to get a feel for our current level. I've heard abatement systems run from $900 to tens of thousands - though I think the latter was in a home with a beautifully finished basement. Any experiences out there in eggland?
Re-gasketing America one yard at a time.

Comments

  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 32,668
    ive heard its a problem with tight houses, so ive never thought it a need to check. i think you can just leave a window open to help reduce the levels, i have a door thats mostly open thru all the seasons and there is always fresh air moving in.
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • stike
    stike Posts: 15,597
    sitting here in a fieldstone basement all day.

    maybe that's my problem!
    ed egli avea del cul fatto trombetta -Dante
  • I have been involved in a few of them. I want to say the costs were somewhere around $500 - $700 for the tests (Columbus, OH.) The cost rose significantly when the tests came back at a level higher than the acceptable levels because then you had to deal with the radon mitigation of the space. Radon is a gas that is formed from the decaying soil matter. It, like mold, is present everywhere. I think the real headache starts when you have to do an abatement. Then, in my case, they sealed the lid on the sump pump, added another 4" PVC pipe to that, and then ran that pipe up and out of the basement to a inline exhaust fan that ran 24/7. They are required to vent the space above the roof line. Which means you have a 4 inch PVC pipe that runs straight up the side of your house to just above the roof line. The system is left in place indefinately. My case was in an apartment building. That was about 6 years ago. Things may have changed since then. When I built my house in Columbus, the common practice at that time was to ventilate the space real well prior to and during the test period so as to avoid the dreaded 4" pipe running up the side of the house!

    Good luck, and I hope your test results drop to an acceptable level.

    Warthog
  • Beli
    Beli Posts: 10,751
    You might be interested in this.

    US_homes_over_recommended_radon_lev.gif

    Good luck!!
  • I was asking my wife about it and she gave me basically the same answer as warthog. The key is to ventilate the area where you found it. My wife also said you can get false readings if the house has been vacant and closed up for while
  • Broc
    Broc Posts: 1,398
    Yeah -- That map made my day.

    I be Red... and just about live in my basement [finished off, TV, computer, recording studio...

    Life a **** -- and then the Radon gets you...

    ~ B

    :unsure:
  • interestingly one home may test high (above industry guidelines) and the home next to it may test in the acceptable range. there is no easy answer to it.

    there are several different testing methods. but reasonable methods should not cost more than $200 to $1000.

    as for the abatement of the gas, it usually is as simple as a direct ventilation system in your basement as some of the other posters have opined. i've had considerable dealings with test above normal and the subsequent abatement procedures. in all cases the cost to remedy always fell in the range of $900 to $2200 depending on the type of remediation necessary to meet federal and local guidelines. in all cases the properties were located in either southern california, oregon, or ohio.

    if you encounter contractors who are quoting higher estimates, i would give very careful consideration to seeking alternate bids prior to proceeding with any remediation.
  • It's been a long while since I've looked into this.
    Something I remember very clearly was that one effective method of mitigating a radon problem was very simply to install a 4" vent pipe as warthog mentioned. No fan, no power, just basically a plumbing vent. The pipe is open at the bottom which is a few inches off the cellar floor and terminates above the roof as a plumbing vent would. The stack effect maintains a constant draw on the air in the cellar.

    Now that I've said that, I've googled it and it looks like the passive system isn't always the correct solution.


    http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/consguid.html#reductiontech
  • I sold a house a few years back, and as part of the home inspection process the buyers home inspection company wanted to run a radon test. I preempted them and ran my own test with a store bought unit. The results were 7 ppm. 2 ppm over the accetpable rate. I got 2 estimates to mitgate, both in the $2000 range. So when the home inspection company came out to put their test box in, I just kept ALL the doors and windows open for 2 days.

    The measurement came back at 3 ppm. The buyers were happy and I was happy.