Calling Woodworkers Help Please

Richard Fl · August 2010

I just dug this butcher table out of storage after 10 years. It is 30 X 60 and 1 1/2 thick. Believe it is maple. Was used in a butcher shop for many years before it came into my hands 10 years ago. The wood is not grease impregnated and very dry.
It is being sanded to remove many knife marks and years of stain. When done it will be used in the kitchen which has cherry stained maple cabinets. I will be using this table as a table NOT as a cutting surface. My dilema, do I use mineral oil on it as I do many cutting surfaces? Stain it and then poly urethane and if so what kind--Pool man you around-- . Frank you around? Thanks for any suggestions. Yes it was hot today. 106F heat index at the ocean. Richard

Haggis · August 2010

If you intend to use it as a eating table rather than a preparation table, there is no particular reason to worry about what you finish it with. Do whatever you like. Maple, of course, is hard enough that it doesn't absorb much stain so you're probably stuck with a blond-ish tone, but there is certainly no reason that you are limited to mineral oil.

Why not try a stain of your choice on the underside and see if you like it?

h20egg · August 2010

Agree that maple is one tough wood to stain. If you're not too particular about trying to darken it, I've had good luck with tung oil. Rub it on, VERY light run with 400 grit between coats, about 6, and a nice finish. What I like about it is you can easily restore/repair it. I redid kitchen 8 years ago and worried about the splash, but built new cherry cabinets with the tung. It's held up well, just clean with a damp cloth. The worst mess is around the island, 8" off the floor, where my greasy basset hound rubs. Little soapy water, looks like new. In 8 years I see no need to reapply.

I used to use a lot of polyurethane, but older version have yellow cast over time, I'm told newer don't. But, I still find the PU not very natural looking. Good luck, try the underside first whatever way you go. And, with a sander you can always take anything down.

FlaPoolman · August 2010

Richard, Helmsman spar urethane is what I used on my table if thats the look you wanted. I would treat it as a butchers table after the sanding to make it easy to resort back if your plans change.

BBQMaven · August 2010

Richard,
Most woods used for cutting boards are very dense and may not take stain very easy. While this may present a problem with a "quick" stain and finish, it does give you the option of multiple applications of stain to gain the color you want.
What does the table's future hold? is it for serving from? eating on? or prepping food? Reason I ask, if liquids end up on the surface it could leave "water marks" (even if it is just condensation from a glass)... you may consider a sealer that won't allow "rings" to form. Some sealers will show scratches while other will not.

Frank from Houma · August 2010

Richard

First - nice table

Second - it's really a matter of personal preference but I don't like staining wood. Some kind of sealer would be all I would put.

Third - I think it will be difficult to match the cabinets and you may like the contrasting woods. Maybe you should try it out as is before you do anything to it.

Last - if you decide to try some stain, absolutely try it on the back first to see if you like it.

Good luck with it

Carolina Q · August 2010

No hard finish, please. Oil only! Tung, Mineral, Boiled Linseed. The wood sounds like it is, or certainly should be, very dry by now. Give it a good oil soak, rub off whatever isn't absorbed, and enjoy.

Richard Fl · August 2010

Probably prepping and cutting, but will use another surface for the cutting.

61chev · August 2010

I have used a salad bowl finish on our butcher block it is safe for food use

Richard Fl · August 2010

Wood is very dry. Which is better mineral or tung. Used linseed on rifles in the '60's and a lot of work rubbing for a shine.

Carolina Q · August 2010

I'd probably go with tung oil. You can always put a hard coat on later if you prefer that look. Probl'y 20-25 years ago, I built my kitchen table (8/4 hard maple top) and put multiple coats of poly on it. Still regret that I didn't simply oil it, though I have to say it has held up quite well with the poly.

thebtls · August 2010

Minwax makes a product that will color maple, maple DOES accept color when prepared well, the issue will be the darker you make it the more the marks will show because you will never sand out all of the knive marks and you probably don't want to destroy all the character. There are a number of wipe on poly finishes that would be perfect (no brush marks) but you would be stuck with natural maple as the finish. Lots of options frankly, not all listed here.

Carolina Q · August 2010

I used to stain stuff. Trying to make cheap pine look like something it wasn't. Long ago, though, I decided that if I wanted walnut color, I would just use walnut. Or purple heart, or cocobolo or... maple. I think oiled maple looks great! Just my 2¢ though.

grillmandan · August 2010

Sand it all the way down to a 300 finish and us tung oil. Hand rub w/tung every other day for 3 or 4 days.

Hungry Celeste · August 2010

Amen, bro. Let that wood soak up some oil, and it will be lovely forever.

Calling Woodworkers Help Please

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