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OT: Any Carpenters here? Help Needed!

DexDex Posts: 85
edited 3:41PM in EggHead Forum
I know this belongs in the table section of the forums, but I know that not everyone looks there so I am posting here.

Well I messed up. I'm trying to find the best way to fix this problem

My table is almost done. I decided to put casters on it, which means I had to cut down my legs so the table wasn't too high. Well I wasn't thinking, and on one of my legs, I ran the circular saw the wrong way against the straight edge. Now I am stuck with this. Any suggestions to fixing this cut?

DSC00187.jpg

Of course... it has to be on the side that the Egg sits on so there is more weight on it. I will Dr. it up the best I can for the looks, I am more worried about it being sturdy. What can I do? How can I fill it?

DSC00188.jpg

So far the only thing I can think of is filling the cut with a wood filler, then cut a 1x4 to length and screw it to the leg on the inside for additional support.

Of course I would rather not because of the leg now looking funny compared to the others, but if thats what I have to do, then so be it.

Do you feel that I need to do that? Or would wood filler and the uncut portion of the leg be enough support?

Comments

  • WessBWessB Posts: 6,937
    Would seem easier to me to just replace the 4x4..
  • DexDex Posts: 85
    Almost impossible. I can not access all the screws in it because of the rest of the table already being assembled and glued together
  • "Sparky""Sparky" Posts: 6,024
    If replacing it(the leg)is not an option,you can get some cedar shims and fill the gap with them.Then you just cut them off flush,and the finish will make them all but disappear ;) You may still need a little wood putty,but the shims will support the weight without adding extra lumber.
  • RipnemRipnem Posts: 5,511
    Yup, like sparky says. get some glue in between the shims and your golden.
  • BeliBeli Posts: 10,751
    My dear sparky boy.......I thought sparks meant electricity not lumber... :P :whistle:
  • misfitmisfit Posts: 358
    Dex, I hate it when that happens. Wood filler is more cosmetic rather than structural. Bondo does work wonders, but then you would be dealing with a pink stripe. I would be inclined to finish the cut and epoxy it back into place, adjusting the other legs if need be.
  • GrumpaGrumpa Posts: 861
    Shims will work great and a custom cut piece if 1/8" thick stock (saw blade width) will work even better from a strength standpoint. Follow up with some sanding and you are good to go.
  • "Sparky""Sparky" Posts: 6,024
    HAHAHA,I've also been known to drive a nail or two :P Well,,,,,with a nailgun anyway :whistle: :laugh:
  • SRB DaveSRB Dave Posts: 10
    My father once told me, "When working with wood there are no mistakes just opportunities for better design." I would find something to fill the gap, thinking some type of metal shim. I would go with metal as there would be less chance of deterioration. Go to the Ace hardware and look for the long threaded rods, By those rods my Ace also has an assortment of sheet metal and/or aluminum shims. Find something close to the correct thickness. Glue the shim in place. Then finish with some 1x4 around the outside of the leg to cover the joint on all legs. Walla-finished, and adds a decorative element.

    Good luck! Let us know how it turns out...

    d

    PS – Looks like a well done table!
  • Humphrey Chimpden EarwickerHumphrey Chimpden Earwicker Posts: 3,743
    i would do that, but instead of shims just cut a sliver off some of his scrap, that way it'll be square and the color would match better
  • Spring ChickenSpring Chicken Posts: 10,246
    I've pulled stunts like that but I just say a few #%&!'s and fix it and life goes on.

    First of all, don't worry about stability. It's stable enough even with the gap.

    Your saw blade is probably 1/8" thick. I would get a piece of 1/8" (or slightly less) stock about the same color and glue/fit it into the slot. Allow some overhang which you can sand off later. Most likely it will hardly be noticable but you can easily dress it up by cutting some very thin trim molding around each leg. No one will ever notice.

    Spring "Sawdust Maker Trainee" Chicken
    Spring Texas USA
  • Old SaltOld Salt Posts: 28
    I would finish the cut then carefully align and drill some 1/2" holes (1 1/2" deep)in both ends, put some 3" pieces of 1/2" dowell rod (glued) in the holes and glue and clamp the leg together. But then again I can be a bit anal retentive. The shims and glue will probably work fine
  • Unknown
    Impossible - NO! Difficult - maybe!

    I'm with Wess - replace the 4 X 4. If you don't you'll be reminded of the mistake every time you look at it. I don't know about you, but that would bother me more than the original mistake or any repair job.

    Something you could do is cut all the legs to that height where you made the cut. Then place a 6 x 6 block on the bottom with router edge before you put the caster on. That would give you 2-3" back of the piece you cut off and it will look like it's supposed to be there. Is 2'3 inches enough?

    Here's how I did my table - notice the blocks on the bottom.

    DSC03133.jpg

    Michael
  • misfitmisfit Posts: 358
    That's a good fix. Measure twice, cut once.
  • FlaPoolmanFlaPoolman Posts: 11,675
    Beli. the name has more to do with his afterparty antics :whistle: :laugh:
  • ChubbyChubby Posts: 2,956
    Wess...

    I'm think'n I'll wait about another hour or so, and suggest he might just as easily replace the 4x4...or maybe cut and fit a shim?

    Waddy'a think... :whistle:

    Chubby
    I spent most of my money on good bourbon, and bad women...the rest, I just wasted!!
  • DexDex Posts: 85
    My choice would have been to replace the 4x4, but because of the internal bracing, I can't back the screws out of the post, and I have all the joints glued.

    Shims will probably be my best option. I will have to rip some of my scrap cedar down to 1/8" strips.

    At least I made the mistake on the inside of the leg
  • Clay QClay Q Posts: 4,435
    I'll add that polyurethane glue(Gorilla glue, Elmer's Blue MAX) is a gap filling adhesive and is also waterproof.
    Cross cut a section of 4 x 4 to fit and attach using polyurethane adhesive with a clamp. Lightly dampen the end grain with water on a rag before glue up and the polyurethane will react better.

    Good luck.
  • BeliBeli Posts: 10,751
    :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: heard a few......
  • Pilcher ManPilcher Man Posts: 87
    If you're not a perfectionist, smear some wood glue onto a wood shim and tap it into the cut, you still might need a little wood filler here and there. Cut off the excess shim and sand. If you think you need a 1x4 on the side, put one on all four legs to make them match. Finish it, and get to cooking.
  • Capt FrankCapt Frank Posts: 2,578
    Spring Chicken is right, that leg will be plenty stable just as it is, so your real problem is cosmetic.
    If you can rip a strip off some scrap and stick it in there with glue, so much the better. Otherwise wood filler. These days it come in an assortment of colors.

    Capt Frank
    Homosassa, FL
  • otisdogotisdog Posts: 187
    Cut some diff. thicknesses of shims and experiment to get tight as possible. Put them in with glue and leave a little oversize. After it dries trim down and sand. It will be just as strong and look ok
  • thebtlsthebtls Posts: 2,300
    You have received some great advice here...the key will be to get the entire kurf filled so the laminate or 1/8" stock would be best suited. Hobby store potentially or a molding shop...the shims are fine too but you'll have to work them down on the belt sander, then use a glue that doesn't expand when it dries like carpenters glue...last resort, corner irons...will add some cost but could be considered 'decorative ' too...sorry for the goof, but we've all done that...I tried to cut off my thumb last year, i'll trade you that goof for yours! Keep ON Eggin'
    Visit my blog, dedicated to my Big Green Egg Recipies at http://www.bigtsbge.blogspot.com You can also follow my posts on FaceBook under the name Keep On Eggin' or the link http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Keep-On-Eggin/198049930216241
  • DexDex Posts: 85
    I stopped by JoAnn Fabrics and picked up a sheet of 1/8" Basswood that I can sand down to fit in there.

    Do you feel this will work?
  • PhrettbenderPhrettbender Posts: 78
    I would cut all legs to the same length, then add another shelf on the lower portion to make up the difference. It would not give much room for a shelf, but it would hold the baking plate safe and handy.
  • Jai-BoJai-Bo Posts: 566
    WessB wrote:
    Would seem easier to me to just replace the 4x4..

    I will 2nd that, unless you used nails on your table???
    Hunting-Fishing-Cookin' on my EGG! Nothing else compares!
  • DexDex Posts: 85
    Well I went to JoAnn Fabrics and got a sheet of 1/8" basswood and sanded it to fit the cut. I got as much in as I could, snapped it off and sanded it down. Used wood filler to finish it off. Here is what I have so far.

    DSC00196.jpg

    My plan is to take some of my cedar boards, rip them to about 1/8" think or so and make a band (which will be 3/4" wide) around each leg so they all match. It should look nice if all goes as planned. :whistle:
  • PhrettbenderPhrettbender Posts: 78
    Good idea to make the bands, add a little decoration and hide the cut. Before ripping the bands you could rout a bead or corner on them to add a bit more style, even do the same around the edges of the table portion so they match.
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