Cedar question for building a table....

Dex · July 2010

I am in the process of buying the materials to build my table. I will be using a red cedar.

I do have a question though. The lumber yard offers the red cedar that is smooth on 3 sides, and they also offer "clear red cedar" which is smooth on all sides, and has no knots at all in it. (which also cost more.)

Is anyone using the clear red cedar on their tables? I was going to use it on all the outer parts, and use the cheaper cedar (smooth on 3 sides and has knots) as my bracing that you wont see.

The clear cedar is a little thinner at 3/4" thick, but is the same width. I didn't know if having a thinner frame would matter since I will still be using 4X4 cedar post for the legs, and the thicker cedar for the bracing.

Your thoughts?

Pepper Monkey BBQ · July 2010

Hey Dex,

As a woodworking hobbyist I've worked with the red cedar that has knots. Sounds like you are looking at pretty good stuff and I don't see a problem with using it for the bracing. No need to use clear when it's hidden. I would suggest hand picking each piece because sometimes those knots can go through half the board or more. Make sure you take the time to select straight lumber and ensure the knots are not gigantic and I think you'll be fine.

Joel M

goldegger · July 2010

I used red cedar to build my table but it was rough cut on all sides. I had to plane it down before I used it. I am sure mine was not clear cedar because it had some knots in it but it was a lot cheaper than the clear cedar. I used the Naked Whiz plans with a few modifications.

Dex · July 2010

Here is the wood that I picked up. The Clear Cedar is even a different shade compared to the regular cut cedar.

I guess my only concern was the clear cedar was a little thinner.

Grillin & Chillin · July 2010

That is a GEORGOUS table! What mods beside handle on end? What was your total build cost if you don't mind me asking?

Mr. & Mrs Potatohead · July 2010

Clear is nice for the table top, but I guess I wouldn’t really worry too much about that if cost is an issue, but then…I like the looks of knotty wood! If cost is not an issue, the clear for the top and “Select or Better” (small tight knots) for the rest of the framing will be great.
Here in the Northwoods we don’t have red (or what we call Western Red) cedar, but have white cedar. I have used it a lot with many out door projects including all of the siding on my house and shop.
My table is framed with white cedar and has a top of 1”X 4”cyprise. I have no real finish on it other than a mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. So far it has held its own for just over three years.
I’ll see if I can find a pic, but it is nothing spectacular just functional.

Dex · July 2010

very nice table. Did you stain or just seal? Also, do you sand before you seal and between each coat?

Grumpa · July 2010

Beautiful Job!

Mr. & Mrs Potatohead · July 2010

Found a pic from early last spring.
Again…Nothing real fancy, but it works!
[IMG http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c232/colvinbackshop/BEEF1001a.jpg[/IMG]

Mr. & Mrs Potatohead · July 2010

I’ll try again, but I’m not sure what is going on!!!

goldegger · July 2010

The handle on the end and the copper pipe between the wheels is the only changes. The materials costs about $250 with the granite being about half the costs.

goldegger · July 2010

I just sealed it with clear polyurethane. The color is the natural red cedar. I did sand it lightly between coats and I put 3 coats of polyurethane on it.

Cedar question for building a table....

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