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Any reason I should NOT get a Stoker?
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Above I discussed the free air passing through the DigiQ blower when the fan isn't running. The one advantage of the Guru is that one can use the slider to cut the air flow of the larger fans.
When I got my DigiQ I was told to get the 10cmf fan. I did the same when buying the Stoker.
On my large with the Guru I shut the slider down to 1/4 open so I would guess I am running 2 or 3 cfm.
On the Stoker I got in the habit of starting the stoker early in the lighting process and I close the dome just after lighting. I close the DFMT to almost close and doing this I eliminate the overshooting you are experiencing. I now to the same with the DigiQII also.
GG -
Does the stoker either have the blower "on" or "off" or can it achieve different speeds through pulse width modulation? If it is all or nothing I'm thinking the smallest fan would be what I'd want for a large Egg so I'm not blowing ash all over the place. Since I'll only be using this for looonnnggg cooks, and those cooks will be at lower temps, I can't imagine needing "tons" of airflow.
Am I on the right track or is there some other reason I'm not considering that would make the 10cfm blower better than the 5cfm? -
With our 3 XL Eggs, we use the 5cfm with no problem
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The 10cmf fans do not blow ash in my eggs, however, doing it all over again I would go with the 5 cmf's for both the stoker and DigiQ.
It would be interesting to me to know the air cfm movement of an egg at 400°.
GG -
maybe this is something stokerlog could calculate... if it knows the cfm of the blower and it knows when it turns on and off, it could compute the average cfm over time. so if it's a 10cfm fan and it's on 30% of the time I would call that 3cfm average flow. But who knows how accurate that is
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At times I have real problems starting or getting my medium up to temperature. The problem is a too small designed fire box and fire ring.
To help overcome the problem I made a tunnel that directs the air flow directly under the fire grate. It is pretty amazing how much air the lump draws at 350° - 400°. Once the lump burn has extablished a good air draw up into the lump I no longer need the tunnel and remove it.
I have found the aluminum foil is not necessary.
GG -
It works great I call the Wife and she goes and Changes it, lol. :laugh:
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Today I was doing real meaty pork Ribs and I needed to leave for a few hours and I knew it would be no problem with using the Stoker to control my temp, however, something else came up and I knew I would be delayed a couple hours longer.
No problem because I was using the Stoker, I just lowered my pit temp using my phone, to 180 degree holding temp and finished what I need to do.
When I got home, everything was OK thanks to the Stoker -
GG and Jeff, please don't get me wrong. I wasn't criticising Jeff for looking at PVS before mastering temp control manually. I was merely stating my position in case the Stoker basher(s) start lecturing me :P
If you look at my past posts you'll find that I love my Stoker. I am not set up for wireless yet, but have built stereo headphone extension cords out of CAT5 cables so my Stoker unit is dry, warm (think Canadian winter) and secured indoor.
Garycanuckland -
No worries, Gary. I actually agree that in order to appreciate the Egg a person should use it for a while with no external controls. The Egg is simply amazing at how steady it does hold temps. I've had hours on end where the temp was +/- 3 degrees without touching a thing. Pretty sad that my electric oven can't touch what this thousand year old technology does. Even if I were to use a stoker for every cook going forward, I've already built the appreciation for what the "naked" Egg can do.
That said, where I live (Omaha) there is about a 100 degree swing from the hottest to the coldest days. I've found that my summer settings to achieve 250 don't cut it in the winter and vice versa. Being able to command a temp and let the stoker worry about it takes away any small hesitation I might have on a busy day to get some smokin' goin'. That's got to be a good thing. Plus, there's the gadget-whore side of me that is literally fantisizing about all the situations where I'll be pulling my phone out and saying something like "hang on a sec guys, I gotta check the ribs... oh, what's that? your smoker isn't controllable from your phone? sorry to hear that. LOL" Yeah, I can be a jerk. But if the ribs are good enough my friends will put up with damn near anything :laugh: -
Canugghead wrote:I wasn't criticising Jeff for looking at PVS before mastering temp control manually.
Gary
Completely understand and there is nothing wrong with learning and letting the egg cook on it's own. Many people do not spend the money for a PVS.
Love your CAT5 cabling. I was thinking of looking at some sprinkling system control wiring and doing the same thing. I have a nice waterproof yard cabinet to put my egg stuff and there is a nice shelf the stoker & router can sit on. Some extension cables out to the probes & fan would be very nice and would clear up egg side work space.
If folks don't want to spend the money on a PVS a $40 Maverick ET-73 sure helps to sleep through the night. I use the ET-73 on the cooks when I am using the DigiQ and other cooks where the egg being used without a PVS. It's nice to have remote monitoring (with alarms).
Be well my friend.
Kent -
So have any of you had luck with those ethernet to wireless converters? I don't have any good way of getting a cable to my deck but I'm well within wireless range. Was looking at something like this:
LINK
But all of them that I see appear to be for N only... my wireless network is B/G only, so I guess I'd have to upgrade that too... man, it just snowballs doesn't it?
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I haven't gone wireless. But no, you don't need to upgrade to N. Most (if not all) N routers/adapters should be backward compatible with b/g, see technical details ...
http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Wireless-Gaming-Adapter-TEW-647GA/dp/tech-data/B0024G48VA/ref=de_a_smtdcanuckland -
I was able to update my firmware but still cannot get it to work outside my lan. I forwarded 80 to 8080 and included the IP address on the stoker 192.168.1.102 I also Re-Enabled the DHCP on the stoker but no luck.
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Isolated01 wrote:I was able to update my firmware but still cannot get it to work outside my lan. I forwarded 80 to 8080 and included the IP address on the stoker 192.168.1.102 I also Re-Enabled the DHCP on the stoker but no luck.
In the DD-WRT setup you need to forward port 8080 (or any port that isn't blocked) TO port 80 for your stoker's IP address. It sounds like you went the other direction.
You want your WAN address 1.2.3.4:8080 to go to 192.168.1.102:80 I think you are sending yourself to 192.168.1.102:8080 on your LAN which isn't correct. -
This is what I got. I can access my stoker from within my lan at 192.168.1.102 and I should be able to access my stoker with my Routers I.P. address from outside my lan but its not working. I dont know whats wrong?
Not going to mess with this much longer. My BIG GREEN EGG COOKBOOK just got here. -
Delete that. You don't want a range. Click on the Port Forwarding tab (not range).
Port From = 8080
Port To = 80
IP address is of your Stoker. -
I cant find anything that says port forwarding. I found port triggering?
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It says forwarded range to the right.... TT
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It wont let me save it as start port 80 and end port 8080. It keeps deleting the info
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It looks like you are still running on OEM firmware. I thought you were doing to do the DD-WRT upgrade? You want port forwarding, not port triggering, but you need forwarding that allows you to specify both the destination IP and the destination port. On my Linksys, it just allows you to forward a given port to a different IP, which won't solve the problem you are having. The DD-WRT stuff seems to allow you to say "forward port 8080 to local ip 192.168.1.123 and port 80". If you can't do this port "conversion" you are blown out of the water because the ISP won't allow 80 and the stoker only listens on 80.
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I thought the OEM upgrade was going to work. I guess not. I will have to research the DD-WRT upgrade. It looks complicated
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Sorry, I thought that you had upgraded to DD-WRT when you mentioned your firmware upgrade.
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