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Since we've been talking gaskets quick question

FatMike
FatMike Posts: 464
edited November -1 in EggHead Forum
I installed nomex a 4 months ago. I shrunk it in the dryer several times before putting it on but I still had considerable shrinkage and eventually pulled off in the back from shrinking. The top gasket had to be re glued with 77 after each pizza cook at 500 deg..I did scrub by butt off to get it clean before gluing in the first place...any suggestions before i put a new one on
I tried my best to align the dome and the dollar bill test was decent..
Sorry for another gasket question..I've been without for a while but dropped the lid several hard times so gonna give it a try again
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Comments

  • Little Chef
    Little Chef Posts: 4,725
    Mike...Did it pull away right at the hinge area in the back?
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  • FatMike
    FatMike Posts: 464
    Yes that is where it pulled away
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  • Little Chef
    Little Chef Posts: 4,725
    It may be more a misalignment than gasket problem. If the dome and base alignment are too tight, closing the dome can force the gasket by the hinge to pinch and bunch. I would suggest loosening the nuts with the dome down, then retighten.....I think your dome and base settings are too tight. May even be able to save the gasket with some spray adhesive. Just my opinion. :)
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  • tjv
    tjv Posts: 3,830
    if nomex is the white gasket, my replacment on the dome using the 77 spray on glue lasted three cooks. I'm going with just the bottom gasket until it gives way too. t
    www.ceramicgrillstore.com ACGP, Inc.
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  • Frank from Houma
    Frank from Houma Posts: 5,755
    I think LC identified the problem with the pinch point but just in case your nomex came with the adhesive backing, here is my eggsperience.

    I had a problem with the adhesive backing coming off the nomex when I installed it a couple years ago.
    101_2474640x480.jpg

    I pulled the adhesive off and reinstalled it with the Super 77 - worked fine.
    101_2478640x480.jpg

    After two years, the nomex seems to have become brittle and was getting loose here and there. Getting ready to install a Rutland.
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  • tjv
    tjv Posts: 3,830
    My nomex did not have the tape. I used the super 77 but it still came off. t
    www.ceramicgrillstore.com ACGP, Inc.
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  • FrankC
    FrankC Posts: 416
    I went the nomex route, but ended up blowing them out on hi temp cooks.

    Then I emailed RRP, and he hooked me up with rutland gaskets. It's been quite a while, with lots of hi temp cooks, and the rutland is still just fine.

    I'm considering getting a small this summer, and if I do, the first thing I'll do is remove the factory gasket and replace it with the rutland.

    To me, the nomex is better than the factory gasket, but nowhere close to the rutland.

    Just my 2 cents

    fc
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  • Fidel
    Fidel Posts: 10,172
    If you want it to stay stuck on go by an auto parts store and spend $5 on a tube of RTV silicone adhesive (also labeled as 'gasket maker'). I use the red 650&deg rated stuff. One brand name is Permatex. I use the generic stuff.

    That will hold it in place.
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  • Memphistide
    Memphistide Posts: 207
    http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_High-Temp_Red_RTV_Silicone_Gasket.htm
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  • Ottawa_egger
    Ottawa_egger Posts: 236
    You really only need one gasket on either the top or bottom. Just make sure you adjust your lid so it sits flat on the base so there is no gaps (I'm sure I just pointed out the obvious to you...)

    I'm not sure why the Mothership puts the gasket on the top and bottom anyways.They would probably have problems and complaints if they just shipped with the felt on one edge.
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  • BananaChipz
    BananaChipz Posts: 207
    Well.. I was thinking about that.. however if you actually read the lables, most of those high temp silicones produce fermaldahyde at higher temps.. Sorry not for me....
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  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Burning wood also produces formaldehyde.
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  • BananaChipz
    BananaChipz Posts: 207
    There are clear warnings about the chemicals produced on the labels of these high temp silicones (including Fermaldahyde).. I don't know why you folks continue to use this.

    I'm not sure about Super 77, but If BGE is recommending it, I would *hope* that they have at least tested for that.
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  • BananaChipz
    BananaChipz Posts: 207
    Straight from one of the datasheets:

    "Hazardous Decomposition Combustion will produce silicon dioxide, carbon
    Products dioxide and carbon monoxide. A component of this product can
    generate formaldehyde at approximately 150°C (300°F) and above
    in the atmosphere containing oxygen. Formaldehyde is a skin and
    respiratory sensitizer, eye and throat irritant, acute toxicant and
    potential carcinogen."

    http://www.cslsilicones.com/pdf_files/CSL503MSDS.pdf
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  • FatMike
    FatMike Posts: 464
    Thanks everyone, Little Chef, I did check the back of the egg by the springs and it was really tight so there's no doubt that it probably bunched it up, Thanks.
    Going to give the high temp adhesion a try
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  • BananaChipz
    BananaChipz Posts: 207
    Right.. if you're burning your melamine cabinets... Not if you're using natural non-processed hardwood. It's mainly because of the urea-formaldehyde resins or finishes used on wood:

    http://burningissues.org/formaldehyde.html
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  • BananaChipz
    BananaChipz Posts: 207
    Hmm.. interesting.. this also says burning wood:

    http://www.ohiotoxicmold.com/formaldehyde.htm


    Well then, you are probably right, however you can't get around that.. you need to cook with it. But you CAN get alternatives to a gasket..
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  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Wood with urea-formaldehyde glue isn't needed to proiduce formaldehyde. One of the by products of burning natural raw wood all by itself is formaldehyde. Wood smoking chips and chunks produce it. Charcoal can also produce it if it is not carbonized completely. Charcoal also produces carbon monoxide. Sorry to start an argument. I just thought it would be helpful to know that you can't avoid formaldehyde if you use wood.
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  • Boilermaker Ben
    Boilermaker Ben Posts: 1,956
    The warning statements are vague. Yes, formaldehyde may be produced, but in what quantities? Are those quantities that would be harmful? What then is the route of exposure? Presumably the concern would be from the formaldehyde being on the food? Is that likely? Or would the formaldehyde be vented along with the rest of the gases in the egg? If the formaldehyde DID wind up in some amount on the food, is it amounts that would be harmful? Formaldehyde is already a product of burning wood, how does the amount of formaldehyde produced by the burning glue compare? Drop in the bucket? When is the formaldehyde produced? Is it produced primarily during the first heating and then negligible in subsequent cooks? Or is it every time?

    Warning and labelling laws vary from state to state and country to country, and often create confusion, and sometimes undue concern. That doesn't mean they should be ignored, but it does mean that we should educate ourselves about the issue.
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