getting to temp ? again please

when your opening the top vent, are you removing it from the dome and putting it on the table, not just sliding it open

The amount of heat your lump generates is very simple matter of fuel + air = heat.

If you have enough lump and a good established fire then get a wiggle stick and make some air paths from the bottom of the fire grate up through the lump.

If your medium is like my medium it takes a little tender loving care. Frankly, I think there is a design problem with the "old" style fire ring and fire box.

Take some aluminum foil, build a 'rope' and plug/seal the gap between the fire ring and the inside surface of the egg wall. On my medium, if I slide the fire ring all the way to the back of the egg wall, there is a 2" gap between fire ring and egg wall in the front.

It seams the air enters the lower vent and some goes into the fire box and a lot more flows the outside of the fire box & fire ring and out the top vent. Some amount of the air flow does not feed the lump and hence longer starting times and lower heat.

Simple test, plug that gap and give the medium a spin - watch the temperature as this plugging can put extra stress on the gasket.

GG

man i type slow :laugh:

Here is a picture, if you look at the fire ring you will see the foil 'rope'. fire ring is centered there is a larger gap on the right side.



Some have suggest sliding the fire box to the front and the fire ring to the back thus sort of minimizing the gap.

The burning process of lump and the resulting heat rushing out the dome will create the natural draft. Air will take the easiest path of flow. The more air passing outside the fire 'chamber' the lower the temperature the lump will produce.

I am at 5000' elevation. With that gap plugged, mixture of new and old lump filled to the top of the fire ring. Starting with 1 sheet of paper towel & oil the medium will reach and hold a stable 700° -

2 min - initial max heat of 560° (flame from towel/oil) - the spike
5 min - back down to 320°
8 min - 380°
10 min - 480°
13 min - 690°
37 min - 700°

Same setup & starting method without plugging the gap.

4 min 350° end of spike
10 min 260°
32 min 420°
36 min 520°
45 min 480°
70 min 450° Gloves on & plugged gap & dome closed
72 min 500°
77 min 520°
79 min 540°
92 min 540° - shut egg down.

The second longer test used up a lot of lump in comparison to the 'fast up to temp' test above and I feel that is why higher temp results.

I repeated and timed these is tests about 10 times and the results are pretty predictable.

This summer I am going to run some more tests using different starting methods.

I expect that oil/napkin (possible alcohol) and mapp starting will end up with similar starting results & times.

Weedburner starting of course will have the egg up to and stabilized temperature 1 or 2 minutes.

Fire starters will be somewhat close to the oil/napkin group, however, the cube will remain in the lump much longer - giving off odor.

GG

If you plug those holes watch the temperature and be aware there will be additional heat stress on the gasket.

Vents - I use the lower vent to control the gross adjustment and the upper vent to fine tune.

If you are cleaning the egg I would leave the top vent off. The lower vent will regulate the overall temperature just fine - even if fairly lower temperature uses.

The screen closed will also reduce the amount of air getting into the lump.

GG

new to my egg. what is the purpose of the rings inside? why not just solid. Do these adjust in some way to control heat?