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New Nomex/ Glue

KnaufKnauf Posts: 337
edited 8:11PM in EggHead Forum
Just received my nomex from BGE and 3m 77 spray adhesive is recommended for the install. I checked a can at THD (think big orange store) but didn't see any temperature rating on the can. I work for an industrial supply company and sell several types of adhesives and sealers including a high temp spray adhesive similar to the 3m recommended. I at least know high temp rating on my brand. Does anyone know what the 3m is rated for temp? I also sell all colors of RTV silicone for up to 700* and a rubber based contact type adhesive rated to 176*. Has anyone used anything other than the 3m 77 with any success? Your feedback would really help. thanks in advance.

Comments

  • FidelFidel Posts: 10,172
    I used 650* RTV silicone and it has been perfect.

    This was not with a nomex gasket, but I'm sure it will work fine in that situation too.
  • Bruce at BGE recommends 3M Super 77 so I would go with that. Some here use high temp silicone, my only concern with that is that it can give off formaldehyde vapors when at high temps.
  • I also just recieved my gasket from Bruce and he recomended 3-M. Looking at past threads of types of glue used, it seems that the 3-M has more failures than the silicone. I am still trying to decide what glue to use and will probably go with the Permatex Copper. I am going to wait till it warmes up a little before I do the replacement, it's -3 below zero here today.
  • I also just recieved my gasket from Bruce and he recomended 3-M. Looking at past threads of types of glue used, it seems that the 3-M has more failures than the silicone. I am still trying to decide what glue to use and will probably go with the Permatex Copper. I am going to wait till it warmes up a little before I do the replacement, it's -3 below zero here today.
  • I have had my nomex on for a year with the 3M product with no problem. I think maybe the failures were associated with applying the gasket with the adhesive and the 3M. The adhesive actually failed. Hopefully you were sent the nomex without the adhesive. The following photos show dangling adhesive.

    101_2478640x480.jpg

    101_2474640x480.jpg

    Couple other notes:
    Make sure the ceramic is clean
    Align the gasket so there is no overhang inside the Egg - Excess to outside
    Don't stretch the gasket
    Use the left over material to line the inside of your ceramic cap to give a tight seal when shutting down

    Just my dos centavos
  • If you click on return to index after posting, you won't double post.
  • 4Runner4Runner Posts: 2,947
    I used the 3M and took the time to mask my egg which added time. One poster here had a much better approach. He sprayed the product into a cup and then applied it to the rim with a brush. Much easier IMHO.

    Don't know about the the 3M failure as there are many variables involved but I would go with whatever BGE recommends. If you have a problem using their methods, I would expect them to stand behind it and get you square.

    We are at 21 this morning and we are all freeezing in SC. We hit 8 tomorrow. We haven't been that low for a long time.
    Joe - I'm a reformed gasser-holic aka 4Runner Columbia, SC Wonderful BGE Resource Site: http://www.nakedwhiz.com/ceramicfaq.htm and http://www.nibblemethis.com/  and http://playingwithfireandsmoke.blogspot.com/2006/02/recipes.html
    What am I drinking now?   Woodford....neat
  • stikestike Posts: 15,597
    i have a rutland with silicon gasket-maker/adhesive.

    that said, BGE has tested the bajeezus out of the nomex ans 3M combination. i did mine back when we just had the old gasket as an option

    3M has propellants and thinners, but they are volatile and long gone after it cures. after it cures, you basically have a latex-based rubber cement. it may not be rated to 600, but keep in mind , when the dome thermometer says "600", the dome itself (and the rim) are not anywhere near that.
    ed egli avea del cul fatto trombetta -Dante
  • stikestike Posts: 15,597
    it never gets to those high temps, for what it's worth, unless you spill it into the egg or it's prodtruding out due to poor installation.

    and i hate to beat this drum, but if someone is going to be worried about fumes from the egg, it ought to be the carbon monoxide. since that's not an issue, due to our use of the egg in a well-ventilated area, i can't see how any other fumes (which are likely produced in far less quantities, if at all) could be a concern.

    the point is perhaps based in fact, but the warnings appear to be a little out of proportion as far as the reality is concerned
    ed egli avea del cul fatto trombetta -Dante
  • FidelFidel Posts: 10,172
    Do you wear a vapor barrier when you fill your car with gas? I'm willing to bet your vapor exposure at that point is considerably more dangerous.

    Seriously, the risk of formaldehyde vapors is a bit melodramatic in this situation. If you were burning a whole tube of the stuff in a small concealed space them maybe I see your point, but a couple ounces of the stuff in a well ventilated area cannot possibly be considered dangerous.
  • InksmythInksmyth Posts: 308
    Silicone sealers and adhesives for automotive use are almost totally inert after they cure. This is due to the oxygen sensors which feed data to the cars "brain".
    When the oxy sensor was first put into use, they had major problems with false readings. It turned out to be caused by silicone "fumes". This was corrected by a new generation of sealers. ( I worked at an auto dealership at the time).
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