Odd temperature aberation, or just cold weather?

gdenby · December 2006

Hi all, [p]A question to those of you cooking in cold damp climates. Do you find that the cold weather changes how the Egg develops dome temperature? [p]The last 2 cooks I've done, one on Christmas day, have been difficult. I set the vents where I usually would to get a 250 dome in about a half hour, but it didn't break 200. So I opened the vents to where I would expect to get 350, and got 250 for about an hour. Then the temperature jumped to 350. Yikes, there goes the low-n-slow![p]I've been keeping a cover on the Egg most of the time, to keep the Egg from absorbing moisture. The nightime temperatures have been around freezing, and the daytime a little above 40. I wonder if the cold ceramic is just soaking up lots of heat. [p]Anyone experience something similar? Maybe I should just add an extra half hour to the pre-heat?[p]gdenby

stike · December 2006

gdenby,
if you open the vents wider, it will get you to 250 faster, as you found. it needs to drive off the cold of the ceramic. but once it's at temp, the vent settings need to revert back to regular old 250 settings. the outside air has virtually no effect on dome temps, except for the short period where the egg itself (ceramic) is coming up to temp.[p]after that, if your vents are set as if for a 'normal' 350 cook, you'll hit 350.[p]same thing for putting in the platesetter and meat, drip pans, etc. the temps drop. you can open it up to goose it along more, but better drop back once the initial drop in temp is recovered, or it'll overshoot.

Mike in MN · December 2006

gdenby,[p]I prefer to open both vents wide open, and watch as the temp climbs. I can't imagine setting it and walking away for 30 minutes while it slowly ramps up to temp. [p]It doesn't seem to take much longer if it's zero outside, or 80°. Now, if it's zero, and there's a really stiff wind.... that can alter things a bit, but it won't make it impossible to use. [p]I have noticed the biggest problem reaching temps to be caused by "fouled" grate vents. If you are reusing charcoal, the ash and small chunks have a tendency to plug the lower vents. I like to make sure they are reasonably cleared every time I use it. Or, if it is coming up to speed too slow, I will use my "jiggle stick" (a bent coat hanger) to make sure the bottom vents are free.[p]Mike in MN

gdenby · December 2006

Mike in MN,[p]Thanks, Mike 'n stike. I should have added a bit more info. I do have the vents wide open till I reach about 200. Then I shut down so as not to overshoot. What has happened is that it then stalls out, and stays at just above 200. I guess I need to keep it going full until just about 250. [p]gdenby

stike · December 2006

gdenby,
i've found that it makes no difference for me in getting to a desired temp whether the daisy is dialed-in or if it's wide open.[p]now i just set the daisy for 250 and walk away.[p]i realized that the draft for any fire that is still under 250 (or still under whatever your desired temp is, 350, 500, etc.) is not already not restricted by the dampers, because it's not drawing enough to 'bump' into their limit. only when the fire gets to your desired temp is the draft restricted by the daisy. with the daisy wide open upon starting, it doesn't draw air any faster, since if it's not at 250, it isn't't gonna be able to draw more air than if it were. see?[p]if my starter cubes are still flaming, i'll keep the daisy open a bit to encourage them to keep going, of course. but when they are done and the lump fire is growing, that's when i shut the daisy to the desired temp settings in advance.[p]the bonus is that i'm free to go back in the house and get stuff together, and no matter how long i'm in there, or if i get distracted, it won't overshoot, and i don't need to keep eyeballing it.[p]just a thought. FWIW

Odd temperature aberation, or just cold weather?

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