MiniMax owners: PSA pertaining to the carrier handle.

egger ave · June 2016

caliking said:

@egger ave your mod looks like it takes care of the problem. Filed away for future reference.

Thanks, I don't like ER visits.

insaneh · June 2016

Good to know.
I think I'll make the handle piece solid. Drill and tap it from both ends ought to do the trick.

chuckytheegghead · June 2016

Anyone reach out to bge for replacements yet?

pescadorzih · June 2016

Not all warm and fuzzy on the replacements as both gen 1 and gen 2 have failed. That's why I had 2 made from solid aluminum.

chuckytheegghead · June 2016

Good job, those handles look great. However, as a side note you may or may not have noticed that @The_Buffalo has updated the
picture on his post. The weld is solid all the way around rather than just tacked in a few spots.

YukonRon · June 2016

When using dissimilar metals, you may enhance the opportunity for galvanic corrosion on all contact points. Watch for paint bubbling where the metals connect. Screws that are different from the metal handles go first. Use of nylon washers help.

FarmerTom · June 2016

I don't own a MM but have been following this thread. I would take that sucker to my shop and simply weld the handles to the the frame. Of course I'm assuming both pieces are mild steel. At least they appear to be. Touch up with a little paint and no more worries.

pescadorzih · June 2016

YukonRon said:

When using dissimilar metals, you may enhance the opportunity for galvanic corrosion on all contact points. Watch for paint bubbling where the metals connect. Screws that are different from the metal handles go first. Use of nylon washers help.

I agree, if left outside to the elements. Mine gets put away after use.
I used SS screw to fasten them. Plus the powder coating on the nest frame is more durable than spray paint.

n8er · June 2016

On their way to get powder coated, solid aluminum.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5017260/uploads/editor/r1/03l39tfb4ras.jpg

RiverRatSkier · June 2016

Aluminum and stainless are not necessarily friendly together. A little bit of anti-sieze will help between the two.

1move · June 2016

Sea2Ski said:

Unfortunately, I had the "new" handle failed me. The part that failed was the welded 6 pointed "nut" that the bolt feeds into. If you look at that part, the whole thing snapped out, and the welds failed. According to the picture that is to be welded in the handle, on mine, it is on the screw.

To me this looks like the first generation not the second. As the star shape is still attached to the screw which broke off at the welds. Am I missing something?

SkinnyV · June 2016

If it was easy enough...someone could sell some of these as a kit. Just a thought those with the tools

pescadorzih · June 2016

1move said:

Sea2Ski said:

Unfortunately, I had the "new" handle failed me. The part that failed was the welded 6 pointed "nut" that the bolt feeds into. If you look at that part, the whole thing snapped out, and the welds failed. According to the picture that is to be welded in the handle, on mine, it is on the screw.

To me this looks like the first generation not the second. As the star shape is still attached to the screw which broke off at the welds. Am I missing something?

GEN 2, fine thread on screw

pescadorzih · June 2016

RiverRatSkier said:

Aluminum and stainless are not necessarily friendly together. A little bit of anti-sieze will help between the two.

I use anti seize on the threads.
But, I build and repair packaging machinery for big pharma and I've seen SS bolts threaded into aluminum for 15+ yrs with next to no galvanic action visible.

bgeaddikt · June 2016

@n8er Did you tap those? Never done it myself and am kinda hesitant to buy the material and then fail tapping it

n8er · June 2016

bgeaddikt said:

@n8er Did you tap those? Never done it myself and am kinda hesitant to buy the material and then fail tapping it

I took one of the original handles to a local machine shop and asked them to duplicate in some solid stock, so it wasn't me that built them. I did ask them to make the threaded holes at least an inch deep in case I want to use longer bolts. Gonna have them powder coated in BGE green for a 2 tone look.

egger ave · June 2016

chuckytheegghead said:

Anyone reach out to bge for replacements yet?

Yes, repair kits are available from the mother ship.

chuckytheegghead · June 2016

egger ave said:

chuckytheegghead said:

Anyone reach out to bge for replacements yet?

Yes, repair kits are available from the mother ship.

Yes, I understand that. I was just curious if anybody actually followed through.

insaneh · June 2016

bgeaddikt said:

@n8er Did you tap those? Never done it myself and am kinda hesitant to buy the material and then fail tapping it

It's not hard. Main thing is drill it and keeping the tap straight. The right size hole. Oil. That size thread is fairly forgiving.
Kinda depends how you're set up. If you've got a bench vice you can pull it off with relative ease. Something to guide the tap would be a definite plus.
A tap block is nothing more than something close to the diameter of the tap
that will help to guide it in straight.

httpwwwlittlemachineshopcomproductsImages4804802571jpg

That being said, by the time you buy the tap, drill, material, it might be cheaper to have a machine shop do it.

NPHuskerFL · June 2016

insaneh said:

bgeaddikt said:

@n8er Did you tap those? Never done it myself and am kinda hesitant to buy the material and then fail tapping it

It's not hard. Main thing is drill it and keeping the tap straight. The right size hole. Oil. That size thread is fairly forgiving.
Kinda depends how you're set up. If you've got a bench vice you can pull it off with relative ease. Something to guide the tap would be a definite plus.
A tap block is nothing more than something close to the diameter of the tap
that will help to guide it in straight.

That being said, by the time you buy the tap, drill, material, it might be cheaper to have a machine shop do it.

Or just hold BGE 100% responsible for any loss incurred by said defective carrier handles. Clearly they already know it's due to poor design and poor workmanship.

@YukonRon I agree on the galvanic corrosion possibility (almost certainty). FWIW I haven't had this issue on mine. That doesn't mean I won't though.

insaneh · June 2016

Very true. A poor design. It does leave the market open for aftermarket eggcessories though.

egger ave · June 2016

chuckytheegghead said:

egger ave said:

chuckytheegghead said:

Anyone reach out to bge for replacements yet?

Yes, repair kits are available from the mother ship.

Yes, I understand that. I was just curious if anybody actually followed through.

yes, they offered to ship the kit the same week.

egger ave · June 2016

FarmerTom said:

I don't own a MM but have been following this thread. I would take that sucker to my shop and simply weld the handles to the the frame. Of course I'm assuming both pieces are mild steel. At least they appear to be. Touch up with a little paint and no more worries.

Two pcs of 1/4" threaded rod cost me $3.00 Drilling out the stock handles with a 1/4" bit took 5 mins. 30 min fix that works.

RiverRatSkier · June 2016

pescadorzih said:

RiverRatSkier said:

Aluminum and stainless are not necessarily friendly together. A little bit of anti-sieze will help between the two.

I use anti seize on the threads.
But, I build and repair packaging machinery for big pharma and I've seen SS bolts threaded into aluminum for 15+ yrs with next to no galvanic action visible.

Cool... I build web converting equipment for pharma industries as well. Anodizing the aluminum (which machinery manufacturers should always be doing) helps significantly. Guessing your home made handles did not get sent out for anodizing. Just trying to save some headaches if you ever need to get the handles off, and so others know in the future as well.

firebike · June 2016

Yeah when I got my MM, I was not that thrilled with the carry handles either. That and the fact when I did carry it I always wanted a shelf or mate with it on the side. This what I came up with. The shelves fold down and lock into place and also become the carry handles. I now realize this pic is for the mini, I made an improved version for the MM. I use the MM mainly for camping and the shelves have been a great addition.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5017260/uploads/editor/4h/a4ftrj5tecxr.jpg

bgeaddikt · June 2016

@firebike I have seen that picture online but never could find the owner. Did you design and make that carrier? Or have a shop fabricate it?

firebike · June 2016

Yeah, I designed and built it. It has been through a few changes since this picture. Even this one for my mini did not start this way. I originally had tubular handles, but needed the side wings and went from there. I cut and bent everything at my house, although I have made a few for friends and actually had the aluminum plate laser cut first and then bent the shelves myself. Although it adds about 7-8 pounds(if I remember right) to overall weight, the usefulness is worth it. It is a handful with the MM but can't imagine not having it. Sidenote, I was really surprised at how well the aluminum sheds the heat from the bottom of the eggs. I originally had designed feet on it to give it space, but since then I have fired it up to around 700-800* with it sitting flat on a wooden table with no marks and can sit my hand right on the bottom no problem.

bgeaddikt · July 2016

firebike said:

Yeah, I designed and built it. It has been through a few changes since this picture. Even this one for my mini did not start this way. I originally had tubular handles, but needed the side wings and went from there. I cut and bent everything at my house, although I have made a few for friends and actually had the aluminum plate laser cut first and then bent the shelves myself. Although it adds about 7-8 pounds(if I remember right) to overall weight, the usefulness is worth it. It is a handful with the MM but can't imagine not having it. Sidenote, I was really surprised at how well the aluminum sheds the heat from the bottom of the eggs. I originally had designed feet on it to give it space, but since then I have fired it up to around 700-800* with it sitting flat on a wooden table with no marks and can sit my hand right on the bottom no problem.

Very impressed. Unfortunately i just ran into this problem since i sold my Minimax that had the new carrier and when i recently acquired a Minimax again it came with the old carrier and on the 2nd carry it started creaking/cracking and i could see the bolt separate from the metal band. I'm going to reach out to my local dealer about this but last time they turned me away and said to reach out to BGE directly since they denied a new or old carrier and said all Minimaxs are the same.

YukonRon · July 2016

pescadorzih said:

YukonRon said:

When using dissimilar metals, you may enhance the opportunity for galvanic corrosion on all contact points. Watch for paint bubbling where the metals connect. Screws that are different from the metal handles go first. Use of nylon washers help.

I agree, if left outside to the elements. Mine gets put away after use.
I used SS screw to fasten them. Plus the powder coating on the nest frame is more durable than spray paint.

Just wanted to comment on powder vs. liquid performance, I get asked this frequently, and you may or may not find this helpful. I mean this in no other fasion, just passng on some insight.

This is what I know; Not all powdercoats are created equal. In fact, there are several dozen brands of liquid coatings, that can, and consistantly do, outperform the specs for many, funtional, and non functional, powdercoating applications.

Typically when specs are written for the product, there are usually 40-50 performance characteristics to the coating. Not all products require a coating as durable as what you will find on an outdoor cable/electrical junction boxes, as an example.

The performance of the coating is intimately reliant on the preparation of the substrate, as it is on the specifications. Poorly prepared substrates, lead to coating failures.

Just because it has a powdercoat finish, is not indicative of the toughness or durability of the finish.

I hope this helps. It was not meant to be offensive to anyone.

YukonRon · July 2016

NPHuskerFL said:

insaneh said:

bgeaddikt said:

@n8er Did you tap those? Never done it myself and am kinda hesitant to buy the material and then fail tapping it

It's not hard. Main thing is drill it and keeping the tap straight. The right size hole. Oil. That size thread is fairly forgiving.
Kinda depends how you're set up. If you've got a bench vice you can pull it off with relative ease. Something to guide the tap would be a definite plus.
A tap block is nothing more than something close to the diameter of the tap
that will help to guide it in straight.

That being said, by the time you buy the tap, drill, material, it might be cheaper to have a machine shop do it.

Or just hold BGE 100% responsible for any loss incurred by said defective carrier handles. Clearly they already know it's due to poor design and poor workmanship.

@YukonRon I agree on the galvanic corrosion possibility (almost certainty). FWIW I haven't had this issue on mine. That doesn't mean I won't though.

In the automotive and aerospace industries, specifically commercial, I see it all the time, even with the most isolating of chemical metal passivating treatments. Different alloys of aluminum when making contact will show GC.

MiniMax owners: PSA pertaining to the carrier handle.

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