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Can side's of BGE contact wood and other table building questions

edited November -1 in EggHead Forum

I'm building a table and I'm wondering if I can make the hole in the top of the tab fit snug around the egg or do I need to leave a gap?[p]While I'm on the subject of building the table. I just realized that I oriented the legs 90 degrees opposite of what's pictured at http://www.nakedwhiz.com/cart.htm.[p]I'm worried if I try to put wheels (I' have a large egg) through the 2x4 legs, the weight of the egg would be to much. (drilling a 5/8 inch hole through the 3 1/2 inch length of the 2x4 doesn't leave much would on either side of the the 2x4. [p]I thought I'd sister up a 2x4 next to it but I would have to drill through where the 2x4's would meet up and that's the weakest joint.[p]Am I being overly worried? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.[p]Looks like I'll have to wait another week before fireing up the BGE :-([p]Thanks
Paul

Comments

  • HaggisHaggis Posts: 998
    Paul Matzerath,[p]I would not make too tight a fit with any combustable around the Egg. Even though it might not get hot enough to burst into flame, the heat will dry it out over time and make it more likely to have an accident if an ember drops on it. Someone posted a photo yesterday of their egg where it incidentally showed the table - the fit was tight and there were clear burn marks on the table. [p]
  • The Naked WhizThe Naked Whiz Posts: 7,772
    Paul Matzerath,
    I'd definitely leave an air gap. I didn't leave enough room on mine and the wood around the edge is scorched. At least 1/2 inch is what I'd think I would do if I had to do it over again.[p]TNW

    The Naked Whiz
  • RRPRRP Posts: 12,848
    IMG_1136.jpg
    <p />Paul Matzerath,
    by all means enlarge the hole - BUT FIRST - is your BGE resting on the feet (3/4") plus on a stone (2") so when raised like that you may have ample clearance and won't need to cut![p]Furthermore look closely at the bottom of my table where the axle runs through. I merely split a length of 2 x 4 to make a solid cross member and then glued and screwed them on.


  • Paul Matzerath, my eggs only have about 3/8 inch air gap between egg side and wood and after 5 years, no problem. If you have already cut the hole, just lift your Egg up a little higher to gain some side clearance. As for the legs, mine are positioned like you are doing it. I used casters, not wheels. Wheels can often go flat under the weight of an egg. You can add 1x4 cross braces to gain thickness and add stability to the legs....

  • Paul,[p]I used 4x4s for legs and wheels basically identical to the wheels on the "egg crate" for my Large BGE table. I attached the frame to the legs with three-inch bolts; all of the rest of the "decking" was done with deck screws. I have about a half-inch gap between my egg and the wood. The egg sits on three fire bricks. You can see my post, below, about pegging out my egg at 800F+. No scorching at all.

  • Thanks for all the responses. I'll be leaving the gap. I can always stick a few rags in the gap when I have to move it over rough ground.[p]RRP - Thanks for the photos. I went for the full 2x4. I also swung by the local Home depot and managed to fabricate an axle that will work with the 10" pneumatic tires I purchased (they require a 5/8" diameter axle. I used 2 8" bolts as threaded 12" bar and 2, 2" long nuts - wound up with an instant axle. I think it will distribute the weight of the egg better than just bolting the wheel to each egg.

  • RRPRRP Posts: 12,848
    Paul Matzerath, home made axle huh, LOL - mine too is a 5/8" but I went the simple route and just bought a 36" stainless steel rod and cut it to size. You are correct though that the strength of an axle will keep your legs from splaying from the weight. BTW I have a large and a small in my table and the weight is such that I can't move it very easily at all!


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