Beginnings of my table build

gijoejd · February 2015

30x60x30ish tall. All cedar except the top. I'm going to build it supported for granite maybe down the road but I'll use a butcher block style for now.

Tips/tricks/suggestions?

NPHuskerFL · February 2015

Sounds like a solid plan.

Ladeback69 · February 2015

Kind of what I have been thinking of building for my XL. I was going to go about 8' to 10' long and 3' tall.

grege345 · February 2015

@gijoejd measure twice cut once. What is top of counter to bottom shelf height? Shelf that supports egg. This is the one that had me concerned the most. Take in consideration the air gap, nest, paver no paver, recessed dome (hinge) non recessed. I just know I didn't want my egg sittin way high. Wanted the handle at waste level. I'm 5'11".

gijoejd · February 2015

Top of counter to the very bottom should be right at 31inches. I haven't quite decided on the shelf that supports the egg yet to be honest. I originally wanted it recessed down enough that I was going to cut out the area for hinge movement. However, I've decided against that. i think the table itself looks cleaner without the cut out.

I'm going to be using a table nest that I measured right at 2 inches. The back of the egg shelf will be open as well.

I don't want me egg sitting real high either, but I think there is some wiggle room on that shelf. Not much...but some.

grege345 · February 2015

I think my height is right around 18". Doesn't sit to high and hinge works w/o cut out. I can double chec measurement tomorrow if you want.

gijoejd · February 2015

Smooth cut cedar has been delivered.

gijoejd · February 2015

Used a biscuit joiner to make my top. Also ripped the ends of the 2x4's off so the top is nice and flush with no grooves. I'll case the top once it's installed.

KennyLee · February 2015

Looks like a great plan. I'd cut the hole for the Egg a little bigger than the required minimum as much as 1-2". Makes getting it in and out a little easier and gives a little more breathing room around the perimeter of the Egg.

For a large and using the table nest, I'd make my shelf depth at about 16" from the top of the shelf to the top of the table. Should leave an inch or a little less clearance for your hinge.

gijoejd · February 2015

17" is where I measured at for the top of the shelf to the bottom of the hinge. I got a clean 15" from the bottom of the hinge to the bottom of the egg. I want that hinge to be right on the table. Do you have any pictures of yours at 16"?

KennyLee · February 2015

I don't, but can take some tomorrow. And you're right. 17" should give you a perfect fit and you will be fine, but I just like to give it a bit extra just to be safe. At a minimum, I'd go 16.5" just to ensure you won't get any "rub" later on, for lack of a better word. Hardly a noticeable difference really.

gijoejd · February 2015

Good stuff. Thanks for the info!

gijoejd · February 2015

4x4's all notched out. The nervous part is out of the way...shelf is set for the egg.

Hungry Joe · February 2015

Looks good to me. The only thing I see folks do that I don't like is fastening wheels to the bottoms of the legs. If it doesn't move a lot that may be ok but I like the idea of a solid all thread axle better. With a large egg and all that lumber you are looking a 250 lbs +

gijoejd · February 2015

Well I'm going to have castered wheels but everything will be braced up nicely. I went back and notched the 4x4's for 2x4's to run thru them the length and width of the table. I would continue building but fatherhood calls...my daughter has come down with a fever and is feeling ill.

gijoejd · February 2015

Now she's starting to come together.

gijoejd · February 2015

Let's try that again....

NPHuskerFL · February 2015

How does it look currently. Pics? Hehehe >:)

gijoejd · February 2015

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a92/gijoejd/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps8ad17d39.jpg

gijoejd · February 2015

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a92/gijoejd/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa45d8a9c.jpg

dont mind the uneven bottom...it will be trimmed out and covered.

gijoejd · February 2015

gijoejd · February 2015

gijoejd · February 2015

dont mind the uneven bottom edges in the picture above...it will be trimmed out and covered. this is the back of the table as it sits. I build cabinets for the front tomorrow and start on the top.

egginator · February 2015

May want to consider a hole for a patio umbrella. You'll need a hole in the table top and a support bore in the bottom shelf. I love having an umbrella - keeps the rain and bird crap off the table.

gijoejd · February 2015

Any advice or recommendations on the top? I'm going to join 2x4 and rip off the bevel ends sonits nice and flush.

Should I cap/case the top out so you do not see the ends of the 2x4's or just leave it plain with no case.

Hungry Joe · February 2015

Is this going to be exposed to the elements or under cover? If exposed you may want to look into how the wood is going to move when it gets wet, warms up and freezes up. That is the reason most outdoor wooden tables have spacing between the pieces. Movement in wood is the biggest problem.

What kind of glue did you use for the biscuit's?

If I was building something that nice I would look into making a concrete top. Google "making a concrete counter top".

Everything looks great so far.

gijoejd · February 2015

Thanks! I am using a waterproof/heat resistant glue that honestly Elmers makes. I've had decent results with it. I was going to pocket screw them on the underside as well. After all of that, I'm going to seal it all up with a 3 stage sealer.

gijoejd · February 2015

I am about to start building my cabinets for the front. I'll start on the too after that.

gijoejd · February 2015

I like the idea of a concrete top just wasn't so sure about how pourus it would be.

shucker · February 2015

gijoejd said:

I like the idea of a concrete top just wasn't so sure about how pourus it would be.

Seal it and it wont be porous at all.

gijoejd · February 2015

Finished doors. Now for the top.

Beginnings of my table build

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