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Building a new table

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Duanwest
Duanwest Posts: 4
edited July 2014 in EggHead Forum
So I am busy building a table using the official BGE XL plans. So far its going fine, I am almost done with screwing down the slats on top, and will then cut the round whole out.

I had a question on the 12 1/2 inch gap from the top of the table to the shelf below. It seems a little small. A lot of the photos I see only shows the top of the dome sticking out, essentially just the handle and the rest of the lid. With this 12 1/2 inch gap there would be quite a bit of the Egg sticking out the top.

Does anyone have any tips? Should I make the gap bigger so more of the egg is concealed below the top of the table?

Also, I have a granite tile. Its pretty thin, standard tile thickness. Will that be enough of a heat shield below the egg?

D
image
Based out of San Antonio, Texas. Grilling on a BGE - XL.

Comments

  • minniemoh
    minniemoh Posts: 2,145
    edited July 2014
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    I would also recommend a BGE Table Nest to put under it. There have been a few tables that have burned with the egg sitting right on a concrete paver. The table nest provides an air gap keeping the heat from getting to the wood. I'm not sure what to tell you about the size of the hole - my advice would be to make sure you have an inch or two of air around the egg. I need to re-do my tabletop so I have more space to keep the wood cooler.  

    The picture is of a med and large in a table that was built for 2 L BGEs. I like the bigger air gap around the med and will be making that change this summer in an effort to reduce heat risk.


    image
    L x2, M, S, Mini and a Blackstone 36. She says I have enough now....
    eggAddict from MN!
  • KennyLee
    KennyLee Posts: 806
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    I would go with something at least 2" thick under your Egg or adding pavers/feet/table nest over your tile.  That seems too thin to me.

    As far as your depth, from what I know, you can do the 12.5" gap plus whatever you have under your Egg to give yourself more depth/space (so 14.5" with a 2" paver), but the requirement is more for clearance for what the hinge requires to be able to open fully. 

    LBGE

    Cedar table w/granite top

    Ceramic Grillworks two-tier swing rack

    Perpetual cooler of ice-cold beer

  • Spaightlabs
    Spaightlabs Posts: 2,349
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    Do the table nest.  1st hand experience...I had a 1 inch air gap over a 2 inch concrete paver and it didn't end well.
  • Duanwest
    Duanwest Posts: 4
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    If I buy the table nest, do I still need a paver or something underneath it or can it go directly onto the wood?

    Thanks for the help so far
    Based out of San Antonio, Texas. Grilling on a BGE - XL.
  • NPHuskerFL
    NPHuskerFL Posts: 17,629
    edited July 2014
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    @Duanwest‌ You could do a small mod like this to the table nest. Which then eliminates the need for the stone below it.

    image
    LBGE 2013 & MM 2014
    Die Hard HUSKER & BRONCO FAN
    Flying Low & Slow in "Da Burg" FL
  • nolaegghead
    nolaegghead Posts: 42,102
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    ^^^ the eagle has landed!!!  

    Cool man, I'd expect nothing less from you.
    ______________________________________________
    I love lamp..
  • bigguy136
    bigguy136 Posts: 1,362
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    I took two of the 12" x 12" tile, put silicone in between with a 1/4" gap. I figured the heat wouldn't go from 1 tile to the other with the gap. After my first summer, I took it apart and the wood under the tile was charred black.

    Big Lake, Minnesota

    2X Large BGE, 1 Mini Max, Stokers, Adjustable Rig