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Issues with New Gasket

Having issues with a NOMEX gasket replacement on my XL

I install a new one each year at this time when I clean up the egg after winter. I always end up setting fire to it doing pizzas!

Each time I take a sander to the rim and make sure all the remnants of the old gasket have gone, then I suck off all the dust with a hoover and finally I clean with acetone.

The gasket on the bottom went on fine, when it came to the top there where sections where it wouldn’t stick. As I live in the UK I keep a stock of 5 or 6 NOMEX gaskets as I always have people bring them back from the US for me, so I even cut small bits from several others to ensure the gasket I was using wasn’t at fault. Nothing would stick.

I re sanded and cleaned the top before finally sticking the gasket, it’s still not stuck in places but I’m hoping the weight of the lid may help.

I’ve never had this issue before, any idea what could be causing these none stick areas?

Thanks in advance for any help!


  • Just get yourself a Rutland from @RRP and install it versus keeping 5 to 6 gaskets on hand. Problem solved!
    LBGE Virginia Beach, Virginia
  • SkiddymarkerSkiddymarker Posts: 8,163
    edited February 2014
    Is it the whole dome? If it is only one area, sound like you may have an oil build up into the ceramic. This can happen where pit probe cable enters the dome. Would have thought the acetone would have cleaned it. Is your Nomex the self adhesive one?
    I have a Nomex that is two years old has seen at least 20 or 30 pizza cooks (seldom above 600ºF), still working like a champ, just make sure it does not overhang the interior of the egg. 
    @EggoMatic - no question the GraphoGlas Rutland will last forever and @RRP has helped a huge number of eggers. Changing the Rutland on my wood stove, I have to wear gloves as I react to the graphite or glass, not sure which, so I steer clear of the Rutland on my egg. 
    @asfish - wood stove gaskets are available in the UK, might be worth a look after you use up your Nomex - which if installed correctly should be good for the next 10 years.  

    Delta B.C. - Move over coffee, this is job for alcohol!
  • Hungry JoeHungry Joe Posts: 1,394
    edited February 2014

    FWIW when I replace a gasket I take a scraper to the egg while it is still warm, actually as soon as I can handle it after a cook or I just warm it up to remove the gasket. When warm the glue is soft and the gasket and almost all the gunk comes right off. A little acetone to clean things up and I'm good. Maybe a light sanding by hand with a 180 grit or higher if it feels rough.

    A sander might work for you but that is something I would never let touch my ceramics.

  • asfishasfish Posts: 25
    edited February 2014

    Yes its self adhesive, for some reason the 3M spray that everyone uses in the US is maybe banned or very hard to get in the UK, not looked into this for a while.

    Might be the pit probe as there are some issues where I normally put that, there is also a bad area at 6 O Clock (looking at the lid front on and lifted up) and there is no way I ever put and probes there as its not very accessible when using the Egg.


  • asfishasfish Posts: 25

    I left the lid down for a couple of hours and the weight pressing down has helped in that none of the gasket is hanging off or anything.

    Might do a sub 300F burn tomorrow and see if that helps things stick

  • asfish said:

    Having issues with a NOMEX gasket replacement on my XL

    I install a new one each year at this time 

    A new one each year!  Wow!  Totally unnecessary.  Put a Rutland on and it will be the last time you put a gasket on.  See EggoMatic's post above for how to get it done.
    Packerland, Wisconsin

  • asfishasfish Posts: 25

    Gasket looks ok after the lid being closed all night, its still not stuck on as well as I would like but its not hanging off either! So hopefully a 300F burn will help things stick

    Will also get  Rutland ASAP!

    Thanks for the advice

  • Jaime_DougJaime_Doug Posts: 57
    edited April 2014
    I think your sander may have filled the ceramic pores.. See this article about the Rutland gasket From that naked whiz article: Re: rotary wire brush "RRP strongly discourages that based on failures experienced by other people. As the wire wears down it fills the minute pores of the ceramic and the edge becomes burnished to a slick polished surface that will not allow the adhesive to bond. Instead, use a 3M product called "Paint & Rust Stripper" that is attached to a 1/4" electric drill. " Not sure that you can get pores back, IF that's it, but there has to be a way to get a surface capable of performing with adhesive even if the prep work hurt your pores.. Good luck!
    Doug/Jaime in Tucker, GA   Could almost walk to BGE Mothership  LBGE
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