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I need to revive old cast iron

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Howdy Eggers,
I found my old cast iron pots and skillets!!  Unfortunately, they're rusted to hell.  Any advice on how I can revive/restore them?  I love them dearly, given to me by grandparents years ago.  They need some egg time!
CC, TX
1 Small, 1 Large, BGE Lump... and a lot of love.

Comments

  • Jeremiah
    Jeremiah Posts: 6,412
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    According to lodge, a light scrubbing with soap and water, heavy oiling with veg oil and heat. Then repeat the oiling and heating if necessary.
    Slumming it in Aiken, SC. 
  • Lit
    Lit Posts: 9,053
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    Do you have a power sander? I burnt almonds in one of mine recently and messed up the seasoning so I had to start over. I used an orbital sander with like 150 grit and it took it down to original in minutes. Getting rust off a pan by hand is alot of work. The sand paper will not hurt the pan at all the cast iron is way to hard for sand paper to affect it. There is also some kind of solution you can soak them in for like a week that I have read about before and heard good things about that will strip it.
  • margareedaville
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    Yep, orbital sander, check.  150 grit, check.  I suppose that will be the least work. =)
    CC, TX
    1 Small, 1 Large, BGE Lump... and a lot of love.
  • yzzi
    yzzi Posts: 1,843
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    I've taken some pretty nasty skillets that looked destined for the garbage bin, and I've thrown them in the egg for a clean burn to carbonize all that old stuff on them (800+ degrees for 30 minutes, then shut egg down and let cool. They came out looking like new after I got some 0000 steel wool and hot soapy water and scrubbed them till all the brown was gone. Then I throw it in either a warm egg or oven to thoroughly dry and heat up to accept the first seasoning layer. I've been using shortening and it's worked perfect. I know many people are using flax seed oil, but it peeled on me so I've gone back to shortening.

    For seasoning I like to use the egg because the oven method smells the house up pretty bad, and I've found it helps get a black patina quicker from the smoke I suppose. I usually do 300-350 degrees, throw the cast iron in there for 20 minutes to heat up, then get the shortening and rub it all over till it's completely covered, then get a paper towel and wipe every bit of it off, then put it back in the egg face down for and hour and repeat a few time.
    Dunedin, FL
  • Eggcelsior
    Eggcelsior Posts: 14,414
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    If you want to get all "science-y" check out youtube videos for electrolysis, like below.

  • Griffin
    Griffin Posts: 8,200
    edited November 2013
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    I was just looking that up this morning. It's been awhile since I've totally restored a piece of cast iron, so my memory was a little less than perfect. We went to McKinney this weekend for trade days and I scored a Griswold skillet for $5! Unfortunately, there is no seasoning on it and completely rusted. I'm going to follow this method to get this piece and another old piece in the garage back to good condition. Spray with oven cleaner and leave in a garbage back, then soak in water and vinegar and then do the reseasoning, but I'll probably do that part on the Egg so I don't stink up the house.

    Rowlett, Texas

    Griffin's Grub or you can find me on Facebook

    The Supreme Potentate, Sovereign Commander and Sultan of Wings

     

  • yzzi
    yzzi Posts: 1,843
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    @griffin, that method works really well. But the only down side of that method is the last item on the needed list: "patience" ;-) I'm like a kid in a candy store when I get my hands on an old griswold piece.
    Dunedin, FL
  • Lit
    Lit Posts: 9,053
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    Here is my pan after the orbital sander about to get seasoned. Hard to tell from the photos but its as smooth as glass.image
  • bettysnephew
    bettysnephew Posts: 1,189
    edited November 2013
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    Another option is to have them bead or walnut media blasted.  Bare metal in a couple of minutes.  Many machine shops have media blasters.  I probably wouldn't have them use sand or carborundum unless they kept the nozzle back far enough to not pit the finish of the iron.  Leave them a can of Pam or a veg. oil soaked towel to wipe down with afterwards to prevent further rusting before going in the Egg or oven.  I have used our blaster at work on a heavily rusted pan without a problem, but kept back from the surface so as to not cause damage.  This was a Lodge with the rougher finish, so I then followed up with my orbital sander until the surface was smooth.  Works as good as the older premium priced pans now.
    A poor widows son.
    See der Rabbits, Iowa
  • allsid
    allsid Posts: 492
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    I just did a lid to my Lodge DO that sat out all summer and looked like Denver Bronco Orange.

    I gave it a liberal oil bath with a broken scrubby from the dollar store and then put it on the small at about 400 after a cook.  Left the DW off and the bottom wide open for the night.  Much to my suprise it looks fantastic and is back in the lineup after a summer on the bench.  If I knew how well it would have turned out, I would have given it a system restore a long time ago-

    SWMBO read something about a salt and oil scrub and she restored one that way as well.  

    GL- 
    Proud resident of Missoula, MT
    https://www.facebook.com/GrillingMontana
    http://grillingmontana.com
    https://instagram.com/grillingmontana

    Check out my book on Kamado cooking called Exclusively Kamado:
    http://bit.ly/kamadobook

  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 32,766
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    jar of grandmas molasses and ten more jars of water and soak it for a week or two in a bucket. never did it with a pan but recently did it with some machined steel parts where i didnt want any metal removal, had doubts about this but it worked, even cleaned in hard to get to places like inside bolt threads. after 2 weeks just rinse it off
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • WeberWho
    WeberWho Posts: 11,029
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    Focker has restored some beautiful pieces and wrote a post of the process:

    http://www.greeneggers.com/index.php?option=com_simpleboard&func=view&id=1227398&catid=1#
    "The pig is an amazing animal. You feed a pig an apple and it makes bacon. Let's see Michael Phelps do that" - Jim Gaffigan

    Minnesota
  • Mickey
    Mickey Posts: 19,674
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    Any worse than this? Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos
    Salado TX & 30A  FL: Egg Family: 3 Large and a very well used Mini, added a Mini Max when they came out (I'm good for now). Plus a couple Pit Boss Pellet Smokers.   

  • Mickey
    Mickey Posts: 19,674
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    After a $10 sandblast. Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos
    Salado TX & 30A  FL: Egg Family: 3 Large and a very well used Mini, added a Mini Max when they came out (I'm good for now). Plus a couple Pit Boss Pellet Smokers.   

  • margareedaville
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    :-O
    CC, TX
    1 Small, 1 Large, BGE Lump... and a lot of love.
  • chashans
    chashans Posts: 418
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    It is a very controversial subject but I recommend that you go to one of the Dutch Oven Groups and search their data base.  Each seem to have their preferred method.  View them all and then you decide.
    LARGE, MINI BGE    SAN DIEGO, CA            An alcoholic with a barbecuing problem.

  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 32,766
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    Mickey said:
    Any worse than this? Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos
    that daisy belongs on my egg
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • Tbonez3858
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    It doesnt matter how much I season a pan its one high heat sear away from needing to be boiled and then re-seasoned. I still dont understand the point of a seasoning if you cant hi heat cook on it without it ruining the seasoning. 
  • yzzi
    yzzi Posts: 1,843
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    It doesnt matter how much I season a pan its one high heat sear away from needing to be boiled and then re-seasoned. I still dont understand the point of a seasoning if you cant hi heat cook on it without it ruining the seasoning. 

    Sometimes I put foil underneath, but I do have a dedicated skillet for the egg. It's a Wagner that's pitted and doesn't sit flat but works great on the egg and I never care about the seasoning. Plus it cost $1.
    Dunedin, FL
  • Aviator
    Aviator Posts: 1,757
    edited November 2013
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    Wet and scrub minimally with soap, mainly to wash away impurities/bugs.
    Blot dry and heat it high to smoke. Apply peanut oil or Canola liberally when hot. Let it cool. This will draw oil down into pores in the iron. Next day heat it again, preat oil and cool. Each time, let it smoke lightly before you oil. 

    ______________________________________________ 

    Large and Small BGE, Blackstone 36 and a baby black Kub.

    Chattanooga, TN.

     

  • caliking
    caliking Posts: 18,731
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    I've heard of people using a wire wheel to get the rust and stuff off. I seasoned all of my CI with flaxseed oil last year, and it has held up quite well, despite the fact that I wash my CI with mild soap and water after cooking. I know its sacrilege, but I can't deal with cooking in a pan again without washing it. There was a detailed write-up about the flaxseed oil process in Cook's Illustrated some time ago, based off of a blogpost by somebody. 

    #1 LBGE December 2012 • #2 SBGE February  2013 • #3 Mini May 2013
    A happy BGE family in Houston, TX.
  • Mickey
    Mickey Posts: 19,674
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    THE ULTIMATE WAY TO SEASON CAST IRON Published January 1, 2011. From Cook's Illustrated. We'd seasoned our cast iron the same way for years. But when we heard about a new method that creates a slick surface so indestructible that touch-ups are almost never necessary, we were intrigued. For years we’ve seasoned cast-iron cookware in the test kitchen by placing it over medium heat and wiping out the pan with coats of vegetable oil until its surface turns dark and shiny. When a pan starts to look patchy, we simply repeat the process. But when we heard about a new method that creates a slick surface so indestructible that touch-ups are almost never necessary, we were intrigued. Developed by blogger Sheryl Canter, the approach calls for treating the pan with multiple coats of flaxseed oil between hour-long stints in the oven. We carried out Canter’s approach on new, unseasoned cast-iron skillets and compared them with pans treated with vegetable oil—and the results amazed us. The flaxseed oil so effectively bonded to the skillets, forming a sheer, stick-resistant veneer, that even a run through our commercial dishwasher with a squirt of degreaser left them totally unscathed. But the vegetable oil-treated skillets showed rusty spots and patchiness when they emerged from the dishwasher, requiring reseasoning before use. Why did the new treatment work so well? Flaxseed oil is the food-grade equivalent of linseed oil, used by artists to give their paintings a hard, polished finish, and it boasts six times the amount of omega-3 fatty acids as vegetable oil. Over prolonged exposure to high heat, these fatty acids combine to form a strong, solid matrix that polymerizes to the pan’s surface. Although lengthy, seasoning with flaxseed oil is a mainly hands-off undertaking. We highly recommend the treatment: 1. Warm an unseasoned pan (either new or stripped of seasoning*) for 15 minutes in a 200-degree oven to open its pores. 2. Remove the pan from the oven. Place 1 tablespoon flaxseed oil in the pan and, using tongs, rub the oil into the surface with paper towels. With fresh paper towels, thoroughly wipe out the pan to remove excess oil. 3. Place the oiled pan upside down in a cold oven, then set the oven to its maximum baking temperature. Once the oven reaches its maximum temperature, heat the pan for one hour. Turn off the oven; cool the pan in the oven for at least two hours. 4. Repeat the process five more times, or until the pan develops a dark, semi-matte surface. *To strip a cast-iron pan of seasoning, spray it with oven cleaner, wait 30 minutes, wash with soapy water, and thoroughly wipe with paper towels. FLAXSEED OIL VEGETABLE OIL Even after a run in the dishwasher, the pan seasoned with flaxseed oil held on to its perfect seasoning. The pan seasoned with vegetable oil did not.
    Salado TX & 30A  FL: Egg Family: 3 Large and a very well used Mini, added a Mini Max when they came out (I'm good for now). Plus a couple Pit Boss Pellet Smokers.   

  • Aviator
    Aviator Posts: 1,757
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    @Mikey, while agree with you on the flaxseed stuff, the way the CI stuff originally was meant to and works (i may be out on a limb here) is to use the porous cast iron which is not dense, and use it to hold high smoke and flash point oils, to not let anything adhere to it. 
    If you are going to seal it by polymerization, get a teflon coated **** from china. It is impervious to anything. 
    A good CI is "made" non stick over time. There is no short cut.
    Also, the Lodge pans come pre seasoned and the "seasoning" is pretty tough. You can even wash with soap. but I towel them dry and wipe them with oil right away. 
    My take, if you want CI, don't polymerize. 

    ______________________________________________ 

    Large and Small BGE, Blackstone 36 and a baby black Kub.

    Chattanooga, TN.

     

  • yzzi
    yzzi Posts: 1,843
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    I'll second @aviator on that one.

    "yeah it may have taken my parents 30 years to xyz But I don't want to wait and I want it now without all the hard work."

    Sometimes old fashioned is the way to go. But heck, next pan I'll try this flaxseed oil method again.
    Dunedin, FL
  • Eggcelsior
    Eggcelsior Posts: 14,414
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    @Aviator, cast iron "seasoning" IS polymerized fat. Always has been, always will be. Flax seed oil is one of the only true
    "drying" oils that is food safe. Others, like vegetable and rape seed oil, are "semi-drying" and form softer polymers(weaker seasoning). On account of that, flax seed oil will give you the hardest and smoothest seasoning for CI.

    Sheryl Canter has a nice write up on the science behind this and it is the consensus for the best seasoning oil on many sites.
  • Eggcelsior
    Eggcelsior Posts: 14,414
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    @yzzi, there nothing "shortcut" about the Cooks Illustrated method. Think about how long you cook in CI each time and add it up. What, 15-30 minutes each time? With the aforementioned method, you are investing 18 hours of time into the seasoning process or basically 1-2 months of cooking everyday to get the minimum level of seasoning.
  • yzzi
    yzzi Posts: 1,843
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    I'm not bashing it. It peeled on me but it was my fault and I knew it would cause I tried to take a shortcut byI applying it over an existing seasoning. I'm a big cooks illustrated fan and I know they put good research into things.
    Dunedin, FL
  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 32,766
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    ive had good luck seasoning with lard. not a fan of the presesoned lodges they make now, ive had one start peeling from a cook with tomatoes, my fault, but it was alot of work trying to fix that, eventually had to grind that seasoning all off to stop it from flaking off into the food
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it