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Gaps between the domes

PigassoPigasso Posts: 111
edited 11:28PM in EggHead Forum
<p />Today I removed the remnants of the old felt gasket on both the upper and lower domes. I them placed the upper on the lower to see whether there was no gap - and ... lots of gap! In fact, .097" according to my trusty caliper.[p]I'd really like to get these surfaces flush before I install the next gasket - any ideas how to proceed?[p]Thanks,[p]Matthew


  • dhuffjrdhuffjr Posts: 3,182
    Kinda thinking that is what in part the gasket is there for. If they fit 100% why need a gasket?[p]You could us some sort of sanding grinding wheel if you really want perfection.

  • StieetStieet Posts: 19
    Use carbon paper like a dentist does when adjusting a bite. Check w/ a straight edge for the high spots. Then graduate to smaller gaps. Grind off the high spots. You may not need a gasket.
    (I always wanted to try this - so tell me how it works.)
    Good luck!

  • ChubbyChubby Posts: 2,956
    Pigasso,[p]I did just this thing a few weeks ago...with the carbon paper and all!![p]I ised a pumice srone and graduated to finer grade sdamdpaper when the two pieces were flush.[p]It takes patience and time, but works beautifully and rewarded me with a great seal when (done after applying a new felt gasket)[p]I've got some tips on dome and band positioning when you need them too![p]have fun!![p]Evans
    I spent most of my money on good bourbon, and bad women...the rest, I just wasted!!
  • GrillMeisterGrillMeister Posts: 1,611
    Chubby,[p]If you have some time Oh Chubbster, I have a couple of projects for you. Heee![p]GrillMeister
  • PigassoPigasso Posts: 111
    Chubby,PLEASE don't be shy! Do share whatever tips you may have handy. I want to do a practice turkey run in the next few days - a cross between Mad Max's ans Alton Browns. I have decided to install a Cotronic's gasket, so I'll keep you informed.[p]My process so far - purched a 22" square piece of glass and layed it over the inverted top dome. Stuck a piece of paper between the glass and dome, marked high spots, fired up grinder with a medium abrasive sheet, made light passes. Repositioned glass, repeated exercise. Will attempt the lower portion tomorrow ...[p]Thanks and Oinks,[p]Pigasso.

  • I have had my egg since august 2005 and already burned out my gasket. I cook on my egg about one to three times a week, and this is a hassle. I think if the fit between the lid and the base were tighter, the gasket would seal better and last longer. Doesn't this make sense to you?
    I will try to make mine fit better somehow before replacing the gasket. At first I thought the bands were installed incorrectly and holding the lid open slightly, but now I have decided that the surface of the sealing area is not true from the manufacturer. If I cut a circular piece of plywood just larger than the lid and covered it with contact cement on the outer edge and glued sandpaper on it then attached a large bolt in the center and chucked it up in my drill wouldn't that take down the surfaces evenly? Better than trying to grind individual spots?
    I'd appreciate your input.

  • fishlessmanfishlessman Posts: 19,486
    David Thomas,
    the only way to see how far off the fit is is to completly remove the gasket and place the dome on the lower section with no bands. remember to line the therm hole up where it belongs with respect to the front of the egg. it may just be one or two small spots that need to come down. the problem with the plywood idea is that how did you make sure its flat as well. if you start grinding, only take off less than half of what you think you will need to and keep checking with a lined up dome. the rutland gasket thatRRP sells also takes up some of the space and is pretty forgiving instead of grinding on the dome. my first egg i did the sanding and a new rutland. if you use the rutland follow RRP's directions to the letter or you may have problems with it.

  • David Thomas,[p]I think you would need a pretty big drill to get that much plywood spinning!
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