Gasketless folks - Help

robnybbq · February 25

I have been going comando (gasketless) since the factory gasket completely disintegrated a few months ago. I have a new gasket but its been too cold out to put it on the Egg.

When I fired up the Egg and the white smoke was going strong I closed the done and smoke pours out the sides and eventually stops when the smoke is clear.

I had allot of issues keeping the temps down on Yesterdays cook. The bottom vent was open 2-3 screen holes wide (~1/8 of and inch) and the DW about 1/4 inch open. Cooking indirect and using a maverick the grate temp was 350. Could not get it lower without shutting it off.

A few weeks back I tried to realign the dome. I loosened the bolts and got the dome to close tight but when I tighten them up the dome lists a hair.

I am guessing this is letting in more air than I would like and resulting in the higher temp at the grate.

Also those that are commando - do you use a Maverick (or other remote probe(s))? How do you get the dome to seal then?

Chubbs · February 25

I am going commando and have a butt on right now with both maverick probes. A little smoke comes out around gasket but not much. If you let you egg get to 350 or so with the platesetter in place it will take a while to get it back down. That ceramic PS holds heat like a sponge. I have no gasket and dome is slightly off center and I have been holding 259 grate temp for 2 hours so far.

robnybbq · February 25

after 4 hours closed the grate was 350

Charlie tuna · February 25

Before my gasket burnt up(first three months) i could hold my "low and slow" cooks to 225 degrees. As more and more of the gasket burnt up, this "low and slow" bottom temperature increased to about 275 degrees. at this point there was no gasket and i could see smoke leaking evenly all around the sealed area. I ordered a good gasket from RRP, and installed it, took about an hour. My bottom "low and slow" temperatures returned to 225 degrees -- but my biggest result was my lump consumption decreased big time. Over the period that my gasket was failing i never realized that i was burning up a lot of fuel during the shutdown. I also realized i had quicker control of temperatures. Yes, you can cook without it, but i think the egg's operation is more easily attainable WITH the gasket in good working order.

robnybbq · February 25

Come on summer. I need to add a gasket.

gabriegger · February 25

Try replacing the carriage bolts with a couple of new ones. Should help in re-aligning the dome and bottom.

Eggcelsior · February 25

It's finally time to replace mine. I have a ~ 1/8" gap towards the back part of my dome that I can see daylight through(this is without the bands tightened, just the dome sitting on the base). Did a cook yesterday then shut the egg down. Went out 3 hours later to cover the egg(typically the egg is cooled off by this time on a low and slow). Egg was still 250 on the dome thermo and when I opened it, the coals were still going. I have the feeling the gasket will pay for itself very quickly as I am figuring that I am able to get around 1/2 the cooks out of the same load of charcoal that I used to.

Little Steven · February 26

The only issue I have is that the lump doesn't snuff out as well when I shut the daisy down. Close your vents up some more

cajunduck · February 26

I cooked a brisket at 250 for 10 hours, and 2 more hours at 300. I don't have a gasket either, but when I'm cooking slow I just build a small fire in the middle and put in the plate setter. I set my bottom vent a little less than an 1/8 and rotate the daisy wheel about an 1/8 to a 1/4 for around 250. Just have to play with it.

SkinnyV · February 26

Hmm I noticed my lump bag going quick. My mini has been gasket less but also has a crack down the side. I checked 2.5 hrs after the cook and coals still has a little light.

As of now can't tell if its gasket or the crack but I think its no gasket causing lump to burn out more. I will be putting a rutland on once my replacement comes but my lump has been going quicker.

robnybbq · February 26

I used to be able to keep the Egg ~ 240-260 solid - pre-gasket failure.
Now I can not keep it below 340 it seems. If I close the bottom vent anymore it will be closed all the way. It was open 2 screen holes - 1/8 of an inch and the top 1/4 the way open.

I guess my dome and base are not perfectly flat/smooth. I can see daylight around most of the gap. Will have to wait until the summer to do some more low and slows (temps below 350) when I can replace the gasket. I still think its a poor design of the gasket and that the Egg I bought LAST year should have had the so called "High heat" gasket already on it. Now I have to replace it and purchase the glue and a grinder wheel to do it and pray it comes out right.

Charlie tuna · February 26

Kind of like buying a new car and find out the manufacturer installed recaps !! :((

michigan_jason · February 26

I used my large for the first time in a while last night, (been using the xl more) and I still have a gasket on it. I noticed that I was able to snuff out the fire WAY FASTER, and was left with much more fuel after the cook. I have been one to preach that one does not need a gasket, while this is true, I totally agree that temp control and fuel consumption is clearly better with a gasket.

Ragtop99 · February 26

robnybbq said:

I guess my dome and base are not perfectly flat/smooth. I can see daylight around most of the gap.

I was wondering whether you had scraped all of the material off

robnybbq · February 26

Its all off. I scraped it all off. There is some residue here and there nut its mostly smooth. One issue I noticed is when I use the remote probes it makes the opening worse and I understand why.

Ragtop99 · February 26

^^^ If there is enough wire, you can drop them in through the top to reduce the air leakage problem

Charlie tuna · February 26

Ragtop99 -- ever check the temperature of that air coming out the top vent?? If you go with the rutland gasket it is thick enough to absorb the probe cable and still seal good.

Ragtop99 · February 26

Charlie Tuna: I haven't measured the air temp at the top. I assume it is around that seen by the built in temp gauge, maybe a little hotter. I've seen others run the wires down to the grate through the top. This was just a suggestion for the OP until he can fix the gasket.

Charlie tuna · February 26

When i'm cooking at 350 to 375 there are flames licking out the top vent at times -- also if you have a thermapen stick it in there or lift the dome up just enough and stick it inside the gasket -- you will be suprised how hot these areas get. After burning up a few different manufacturer's probe wires i started looking around to see what temperature they are rated for -- and most will not stand up to temperatures found in the "hot spots" within the egg. Thats why i double or triple wrap my probe cables entering the egg -- cheap way to protect your probes...

Chubbs · February 27

+1 for wrapping cables from now on. Easy to do and better safe than sorry.

jlsm · February 27

The Maverick 73 was rated 450, but the newer 732 is rated for 700. I still triple wrap the wires, though.

robnybbq · February 27

I have the ET732. I wrapped the probes wires with HD Foil and the food probe still only lasted ~6-10 cooks.

Wrapping the wires makes the opening where the gasket should be larger. Looks like I will go back to a gasket once the weather gets warmer. For now - no more low and slows until then.

michigan_jason · February 27

I only use my probes (bbq guru digiq dx2) when I am cooking at low temps, such as 175-250. What are you guys cooking at temps that will melt the wires that requires you to use a temp probe/controller? I ask because at higher temps, the cook time is much lower and one is typically at their grill while cooking. Just my .02

Charlie tuna · February 27

If i am spatchcocking a turkey i might use my probes to monitor what's happening. I [retty much know my chckens just by time, but haven't done too many turkey. Also fresh turkey breast..

liquidicem · February 27

So where is the best place to source a Rutland gasket from? I'll be do for a replacement in the spring as well. I'm down to a Nomex gasket on the base only. The top one pulled off one day when the two stuck together.

Charlie tuna · February 27

I got mine from RRP on the other egg forum -- cheap and super fast service..

EdwardDaniel · February 27

Ace hardware. I use a rutland and love it.

robnybbq · February 27

I have a new high heat one from the BGE that I will install once it gets warmer out. Is this one not good? Doesn't the Rutland have fiberglass in it? or not food safe?

Eggcelsior · February 27

robnybbq said:

I have a new high heat one from the BGE that I will install once it gets warmer out. Is this one not good? Doesn't the Rutland have fiberglass in it? or not food safe?

It's fine. It is the Nomex one. This is like asking what the best charcoal is. I am planning on installing it as well once I get the logistics of my plan put together. It is still possible to fry both, but I don't think you can go wrong with either one.

Eggcelsior · February 27

Eggcelsior said:

robnybbq said:

I have a new high heat one from the BGE that I will install once it gets warmer out. Is this one not good? Doesn't the Rutland have fiberglass in it? or not food safe?

It's fine. It is the Nomex one. This is like asking what the best charcoal is. I am planning on installing it as well once I get the logistics of my plan put together. It is still possible to fry both, but I don't think you can go wrong with either one.

Oh, the Rutland is not "Food Safe" for the simple fact that it hasn't been tested for this application. You're probably doing more damage with the CO and charcoal dust you inhale from grilling, FWIW.

Ragtop99 · February 28

Charlie tuna said:

When i'm cooking at 350 to 375 there are flames licking out the top vent at times -- also if you have a thermapen stick it in there or lift the dome up just enough and stick it inside the gasket -- you will be suprised how hot these areas get. After burning up a few different manufacturer's probe wires i started looking around to see what temperature they are rated for -- and most will not stand up to temperatures found in the "hot spots" within the egg. Thats why i double or triple wrap my probe cables entering the egg -- cheap way to protect your probes...

I haven't seen that issue at 350*, but I do wrap my wires even at lower temps. I mainly use the maverick for indirect cooks at 300* and below, but I can see if you're approaching 400* direct that it could be an issue. I've worried if there is going to be a problem, it is going to be closer to the fire where the wire is not protected from the fire by my stone (Woo2 + stone; no platesetter).

Howdy, Stranger!

Forums

Gasketless folks - Help

Comments