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First Egg, First Table, First Problem!

dolphmillerdolphmiller Posts: 2
edited June 2012 in EGG Table Forum
I've been lurking for a while since I decided to take the plunge for a BGE, but this is my first post.  I decided to make my own table but held off on having my large egg delivered until I finished (more motivation to finish faster!).  

I mostly used Naked Whiz's plans (which are awesome by the way) except I used a concrete paver instead under the egg.  

Last night I finished sanding and was ready to stain until I realized I had installed and framed a 12"x12"x1.75" paver under the egg (see picture). I paid for the 16"x16" paver at Lowes and grabbed the wrong one apparently and never thought about it afterwards.  I now have a 16"x16" but have some questions.

1) Will the egg fit on the 16"x16" paver with ceramic feet, I'm confident it won't with the 12"x12"? 
2) When looking for a solution and way to avoid re-framing my table, I saw where there were some measurements here that required 15" from shelf tops (which I have) minus 2" for the paver or insulated material equalling 13".  If it fits, can I just place the 16"x16" paver on top of the 12"x12" paver I already have flushed with the floor and have a 13" space between that and my 21" hole?  Therefore avoiding reworking the table and adding some additional concrete between the surfaces?

I'm sure there is an explanation already out there, but I couldn't find anything so I apologize.
Thanks,
Randolph

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Comments

  • tazcrashtazcrash Posts: 1,851
    FWIW, I can verify that the egg will fit on a 16" square paver with feet.But it's a snug fit. 
    Bx - > NJ ->TX!!! 
    All to get cheaper brisket! 
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  • tazcrashtazcrash Posts: 1,851
    FWIW, I can verify that the Large egg will fit on a 16" square paver with feet. But it is a snug fit on the diameter. Not sure if I missed it, but didn't see the size mentioned. 

    If you put the 16" on the  12" I'm guessing all it will do is raise your cooking surface 2" and give you a slightly larger spacing around your egg in the hole. Some heat will transfer to the stone resting on the wood (since the 12" is flush), but I doubt you will see scorch marks.

    While it would be more work, why not just flip the table, frame out to fit the 16" square paver, and cut out the planks to drop the 16" stone in there? 
    Bx - > NJ ->TX!!! 
    All to get cheaper brisket! 
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  • fish8503fish8503 Posts: 29
    if you are using the feet i dont see why it matters whats under it. i have seen people use the feet directly on wood
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  • I wanted to make sure that the 16" paver would work at the 15" measurement before I redid the table and flushed it. I will go ahead with that and do it right while I have the time, thanks!
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  • cazzycazzy Posts: 7,193
    if you are using the feet i dont see why it matters whats under it. i have seen people use the feet directly on wood
    I've also people like that burn a hole straight trough their table doing so. The feet are not enough and a paver is needed.

    Just a hack that makes some $hitty BBQ...
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  • Why even use the feet? Keep them for a drip pan on top of the plate setter instead...
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  • stikestike Posts: 15,597
    feet because air is the best insulator we can manage cheaply, with the paver to block radiant heat. sure, a vacuum would be ideal, but i don't think we can pull that off in our backyards  ;))
     
    even sitting directly on a paver, the heat can still be conducted thru the paver itself.
    a little air makes it tough for the heat to jump the gap, the paver then blocks the radiant heat, and the separation short circuits any heat that might have been directly conducted. win, win, win 


    ed egli avea del cul fatto trombetta -Dante
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  • TUTTLE871TUTTLE871 Posts: 1,316
    feet because air is the best insulator we can manage cheaply, with the paver to block radiant heat. sure, a vacuum would be ideal, but i don't think we can pull that off in our backyards  ;))
     
    even sitting directly on a paver, the heat can still be conducted thru the paver itself.
    a little air makes it tough for the heat to jump the gap, the paver then blocks the radiant heat, and the separation short circuits any heat that might have been directly conducted. win, win, win 


    Agreed, I use the feet with the paver. It took me sometime to agree on this but after doing it with and without I will stick with the feet.

    "Hold my beer and watch this S##T!"

    LARGE BGE DALLAS TX.

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  • Agreed on it is ideal to have that separation between paver and egg. It allows for heat to be convected away with air movement and the thermal conductivity of air is so low. As it would also be better to increase thickness of your paver or distance from egg to paver. My point is to what end. Are you concerned the heat transfer through conduction will then ignite your wooden structure?
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  • All good points. I'm not concerned with too much heat transfer between the egg and paver as I will definitely use the feet to provide circulation under the egg. My main concen was if the 16" paver would fit the egg with feet and if flushing the paver would be the right move.
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