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Anyone remove a rutland gasket?

Hungry JoeHungry Joe Posts: 965
edited November -1 in EggHead Forum
I've searched and can't find anyone that removed the Rutland gasket. I installed the RRP kit. I think my problem has been solved and I have what I believe is the new gasket coming. I'd like to give it a shot but don't know how to take the rutland off. Any ideas?

Comments

  • fishlessmanfishlessman Posts: 16,238
    it might come off with a putty knife if you can get it under the glue and then a sander. why are you removing it, the only real safety issue i would see is the fibers going airborn and thats highly likely with any removal process. i would wet it down before removal, and wear a good dust mask during the process.
  • stikestike Posts: 15,597
    mine removed itself. it's water based adhesive, and sometimes the water wicks out of the adhesive into the ceramic, weakening the adhesive joint as it cures. mine popped off in one clean piece in a small area, then continue to pull cleanly off over a short period of time.

    if you really want to take it off, i'd go around it first with a paint scraper to see if there are any loose spots. try the hinge area in the back. either directly in the back, or at 1 o'clock and 11 o'clock.

    if you find a loose spot, you might be able to keep gliding the scraper between the ceramic and the adhesive.

    i think that the ceramic edge should actually be moistened with a sponge first, before spreading the adhesive. the adhesive is designed for cast iron, which doesn't wick the water out as it cures. just a thought.

    the second rutland i installed i glued down with high temp silicone. in fact, i think you could make a gasket of just the silicone.
    ed egli avea del cul fatto trombetta -Dante
  • Grandpas GrubGrandpas Grub Posts: 14,226
    Stike,

    Interesting idea if someone is looking for an alternative.

    When I was asking about my gasket problem someone emailed me off line suggesting the use of silicone as a gasket material.

    They suggested to use a thin dowl as a separator and plastic wrap so the dome does not seal to the base.

    Kent
  • Hmmm... Interesting.

    I have yet to replace my gasket, but I am only 3 months into EGGing.

    For me, the Rutland gasket seems a bit scary with all of the talk about fiberglass and the related vendors not approving it. I realize that some members might disagree with this. However for me, I am not sure that it is worth the risk.

    Contrary to that opinion, I did open my oven to heat up some of my leftovers and noticed its gasket. That gasket closely resembled the Rutland.

    Could the Rutland-type gasket be safe in the oven?

    Does the fire and not the temperature make it not safe on the EGG?

    How many licks does it take to get to the center of a Tootsie Pop?

    The world may never know....

    Greg
  • FWIW, I have contacted Rutland and am waiting for a reply...
    The Naked Whiz
  • RRPRRP Posts: 13,809
    The Rutland adhesive withstands 2,000° and the gasket goes to 3,600°. No BGE is going to touch those levels. As for your observation about a fiberglas gasket around your oven...you btecha that's what it is! Now let's see how many here will kick their ovens to the curb tonight!
    Ron
    Dunlap, IL
  • Not to be argumentative, but why are Rutland and BGE not endorsing the use of this gasket?

    I have heard that the Rutland is not made to be around food.

    If this is the case, what is the gasket around my oven?

    Greg
  • I'm not thinking of removing it because of all the recent discussion going on about it. I may in fact keep it in place. I'm working out an issue I'm having with a gap in the area where the bands bolt together and may try the newer gasket.
  • This is only a guess but I think it is a pretty good guess. Rutland is NOT going to endorse their stove gasket for ANY use whatsoever other than its intended application, i.e., wood stoves and fireplaces. I'm willing to bet that they don't know and don't care if it is safe around food. If they make any statement about it being safe for use around food, that exposes them to liability if they turn out to be wrong. They aren't going to spend thousands of dollars on food safety testing when the product isn't intended to be used around food, so they don't know and thus won't endorse its use around food. We'll see what they say...
    The Naked Whiz
  • The Naked Whiz wrote:
    This is only a guess but I think it is a pretty good guess. Rutland is NOT going to endorse their stove gasket for ANY use whatsoever other than its intended application, i.e., wood stoves and fireplaces. I'm willing to bet that they don't know and don't care if it is safe around food. If they make any statement about it being safe for use around food, that exposes them to liability if they turn out to be wrong. They aren't going to spend thousands of dollars on food safety testing when the product isn't intended to be used around food, so they don't know and thus won't endorse its use around food. We'll see what they say...

    I agree 100%. Now with that I wouldn't do a low-and-slow and eat the gasket as a side ;)
  • Well, at least with the gasket, if you got it half way down and then suffered intestinal blockage, you could pull it back up and out. Gawd, did I just say that?
    The Naked Whiz
  • fishlessmanfishlessman Posts: 16,238
    i would try and reset the dome first and get as tight a seal as possible, then live with it. there are some of us that gave up on gaskets years ago, and run eggs without them. its not that big a deal, the egg runs just fine with some leakage, the real purpose of the gasket imho is to cushion the dome when closing it.
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