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Gasket replacement

SippiSippi Posts: 83
edited 2:13PM in EggHead Forum
I contacted Rutland Chimney Fireplace today to order a gasket for my large egg not realizing that they did not sell directly to individuals. I would appreciate suggestions as to what chains carry the Rutland product line. I understand that it is neccessary to replace only the top or bottom gasket, but not both. If this is incorrect, I would also appreciate being corrected.

Comments

  • Char-WoodyChar-Woody Posts: 2,642
    Sippi, Your correct Rutland only supplies distributors or retail stores. There was a post awhile back with a year round retail outlet. Some may have it handy..I will look in my files also. It is 3/8 inch thick and I believe that is more than the "felt" original two combined, so one lip/edge should be sufficient. There is sufficient amount in a kit package to do one side with about 6 to 8 inches left over.
    Good luck with your mod's.
    C~W[p]

  • PainterPainter Posts: 464
    Sippi, I just picked up a Rutland gasket from Menards here in Wis. Also ACE hardware carrys them also. Part# is 95-6 and comes with gasket and adhesive. Paid aroud $7.50 I think.Good Luck

  • SippiSippi Posts: 83

    Many thanks to CW and Painter. Ace in neighboring town has the gasket material on roll along with the adhesive. This is not in a kit but should work.

  • RRPRRP Posts: 21,186
    Sippi,
    hope you measured and took in consideration the required bunching...for instance the circumference on a large is about 67" but when you're done it will have taken about 81" inches of material. BTW the standard Rutland fit has a piece 5/8" x 84" which is perfect.

    L, M, S, Mini
    Ron
    Dunlap, IL
    Re-gasketing America one yard at a time!

  • PainterPainter Posts: 464
    Sippi, Glad I could finally help someone.Someones always helping me, even when I'm not asking. Great forum. Sounds like a good setup. Gasket on a roll.
    Painter

  • Sippi,[p]You can order the replacemnt from any store. It is better to replace the top and bottom at the same time as this will ensure a proper seal. I just did mine and it was a job. The old seal will not pull away clean, so you are left with a bunch of adhesive and torn uneven seal scraps. Buy a can of the sticker remover, it is a spray and will help in the removal of the old seal. Also have a razor blade to do any of the left over scraping. Once the old seal is removed and the lip is clean it is easy to put on the new seal. The roll has enough to do top and bottom with some left over. Temember measure twice, cut once!!!![p]Good Luck

  • RRPRRP Posts: 21,186
    Jeff Wilson, to each his own, but I preferred to use elbow grease vs any chemical on the unglazed poreous edges as that could soak in taking the adhesive chemical properties with it. Also if you bunch the seal you can get by with just one side as it forms a somewhat springy cushion. 3-M makes a paint removal wheel that takes the old seal off fast and clean. Again to each his own!

    L, M, S, Mini
    Ron
    Dunlap, IL
    Re-gasketing America one yard at a time!

  • RRPRRP Posts: 21,186
    RRP,
    clarification about the elbow grease - that came from using a pumice stone to do the final clean up as working on the bottom is easy, but dealing with the top is a another matter which can tire you more than you might think.

    L, M, S, Mini
    Ron
    Dunlap, IL
    Re-gasketing America one yard at a time!

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