When I set up my mini tonight, I noticed that the dome didn't close all the way in front. It remained about 1/8" high.
Easy to fix, I thought. I loosened the band bolts (one is cross-threaded) and let the dome settle evenly on the base.. No gap.
After tightening the bolts, I fired it up. Later, I noticed a similar gap to the rear. Did the same again, even raising the hinge a bit to let the top settle fully into it's band, but when the bolts are tightened, the back end rises slightly.
One cause is that the rim under the band is tapered slightly, causing it to try and slip out from under the band on both ends.
The other, and main problem is that the Mini's hinge has NO play or flex. The band position has to be absolutely perfect, or the rear edge contacts first, holding the front open, or the rear edge is held high. One result of this is that the rear part of the gasket has been burnt a bit (no doubt helped by my forced air experiment). [p]Question: On the larger eggs, when closed, can you lift the rear edge of the dome slightly off the base? I suspect that the hinge on these models has some slop built in, so that the dome can sit flat on the gasket under it's own weight.[p]I'm thinking about fixing it by drilling the rivets out where the hinge brackets attach to the bands, then re-riveting them more loosely, so the cover can "float" relative to the hinge. If that's not enough, the same treatment can be applied to the hinge rivets themselves.[p]BTW: I set aside the cap and just laid a small sheet of stainless steel across the stack, which let me control the flow much more finely. I may just cut a circular piece, tether it with a short chain to the thermometer shank, and slide it around to regulate the outlet..