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Is Frozen Better Than Re-ignition????

Anthony Up NorthAnthony Up North Posts: 205
edited 12:31PM in EggHead Forum
I just read the responses to my comment about the dangers of an EGG freezeing shut and the warnings there about the possibility of an EGG re-igniting if a thin metal slat is placed between the vacuum felt strips after "making sure the fire is out." I got to thinking about all this.[p]I BBQed this Winter several times when the temp was -5 F and lower. When Qing under those conditions condensation is bound to occur. And we all know the colder the atmosphere, the more condensation. (to a frozen point) Some of that condensed moisture is bound to collect around the felt strips as the dome is opened and closed, especially in extreme cold weather. [p]So now the question. Who would rather have the EGG freeze shut on a very cold Winter night, than than take then take the chance of having the lump reignite? I for one wouldn't enjoy struggling with the EGG the next day, trying to get it open in freezeing the cold on my tundra like terrace. That thought prompted me to think about using the thin metal strip in the first place. [p]Though I've used the metal strip technique more than two dozen times, not once has my EGG re-ignited. The trick is to wait a while AFTER the thermometer is a far south as it can go. But even if the lump re-ignited, SO WHAT? All I would lose is a bucks worth of lump! Better than losing a few fingers to frost bite.[p]Anthony

Comments

  • Wise OneWise One Posts: 2,645
    Anthony Up North, you forgot. The object of the game is to see how little lump you can use to cook the most food. Did you really think the object was convenience in cooking? :-)

  • Nature BoyNature Boy Posts: 8,508
    Anthony Up North,
    I can't imagine that the airspace created by a thin metal slat would be enough to maintain a fire in the egg without some other air getting in. [p]I agree keep those fingers!
    Cheers
    NB

    DizzyPigBBQ.com
    Twitter: @dizzypigbbq
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  • Tim MTim M Posts: 2,410
    Anthony Up North,[p]I must be "thick" tonight -- I can not make anything from this, "about the possibility of an EGG re-igniting if a thin metal slat is placed between the vacuum felt strips after
    "making sure the fire is out." I got to thinking about all this."[p]I must have missed some threads because I can't figure out what a metal slat is and what a vacuum felt is.[p]
    If you freeze your dome shut, just slide in a Webber fire cube in the vent opening. This will be under the grate where I start almost all my fires anyway and in 5-10 min the dome will open. Then just add more fresh lump and off you go.[p]How could lump re-ignite after its out??[p]Tim

  • SpinSpin Posts: 1,375
    Anthony Up North,[p]This is our third winter with the Eggs on an open deck, cooking 3-4 times a week. When the cook is completed, I set the ceramic cap on and close the bottom vent. When the dome temp drops to about 120°F, I cover it (BGE covers).[p]I have yet to experience a freezing problem with this method. Granted, winter temps in my area of the world tend to stay above 0°F. We tend to receive ice storms (can be 1-2") and it is easier (and more comfortable :-}) to break the ice from the cover than the Egg itself.[p]An Egg with the ceramic cap on and the bottom vent completely closed can make little temperature (fire will die out). My large has no seals left and it goes out every time (summer or winter) - even with the leaky seals.[p]Like cooking, if the method works for you and produces the results you intended, then it is exactly what is needed.[p]Spin
  • Tim M,[p]Don't ask me how reignition. Ask the guys below who seemed to think that it did. They cited some post some time back, that confirmed this. Beats me though.[p]For me, I never start my Egg from below. That certainly is an alternative. Good point![p]Anthony[p]
  • Spin,
    Yep! That my sentiment too. I agree with all you said here. I too have a BGE cover. I too cover it when the temp is at the bottom. I too don't know how it would re-ignite. But I put the mental slat in just in case. I really don't know if it is necessary. Just an extra precaution.

    Anthony[p]

  • RRPRRP Posts: 21,811
    Anthony Up North, I didn't use to try the start from below the grate when during the high temp cooking, but I do follow this principal all the time now with great success.
    Cookin high? go below!
    Cookin low? light on high!

    L, M, S, &  Mini
    And oh yes...also a 17" BlackStone gas fired griddle! 
    Ron
    Dunlap, IL
    Re- gasketing AMERICA one yard at a time!
  • Tim MTim M Posts: 2,410
    RRP,[p]
    ""Cookin high? go below!
    Cookin low? light on high!""[p]I like that, may I plagiarize that???[p]
    Tim

  • CornfedCornfed Posts: 1,324
    Spin,[p]I'm also in NJ and I also simply place the cover on when I'm done cooking and I've also never had a dome freeze shut. One time, though, my bottom vent froze shut. After trying for a while to pry it open, and nearly bending the metal which forms the lip used to slide the vent open and closed (I don't have the stainless steel vent), I simply chucked in some lump and lit a cube on top. After about 20-30 minutes, I'd already put the food on at low temps to absorb some heavy initial smoke. By that time, I was ready to raise the temps for the rest of the cook and the bottom vent had thawed and was as good as new.[p]Dome frozen shut? Light cube through bottom vent. Bottom vent frozen shut? Light cube through dome. Both frozen shut? Drop lit cube through top vent, I guess... Run out of beer before cook is done? The only way to handle that is through better planning (ie - start with more beer).[p]Cornfed
  • RRPRRP Posts: 21,811
    Tim M, be my guest! At first I used to have problems getting to the after-burner temps, not anymore as the fire goes up, but conversely since humpty is suckin wind from the bottom and out the top then the lighting for low temps on top is a natural! PS if you liked that ditty, I remember a few from my college days!

    L, M, S, &  Mini
    And oh yes...also a 17" BlackStone gas fired griddle! 
    Ron
    Dunlap, IL
    Re- gasketing AMERICA one yard at a time!
  • Tim MTim M Posts: 2,410
    Spin,[p]Your large sounds like mine - I have no seal left to speak of either and it works fine. There is maybe 1/16" left on the rear but I think its ceramic on ceramic in the front. I have a new gasket and I have had it since last Eggfest but just never put it on since it works just fine and seals perfectly - well, almost perfectly.[p]Tim
  • Tim MTim M Posts: 2,410
    RRP,
    My college days? I remember many things from "Pyro Technic University" Yeee Haaawww. I use to be an explosives expert (aka nut)........ well, that is an whole other story.[p]Enjoy strong combustion![p]Tim M
    tourch1.gif[p]

  • SpinSpin Posts: 1,375
    Anthony Up North,[p]I vaguely remember the post. The important point of the post is that the vents were opened, allowing proper airflow to a very feeble fire that then recindled. No real comparison to your post or experience can (or should) be made.[p]With no intention of seeming arguementative, I can't really reason out how the metal strips would aide in preventing freezing the dome and body together. The metal will cool to air temp (along with the seals), and whatever moisture present would stick it all together in a frozen mass (going along with your reasoning).[p]I would offer that, cooling down from a cook, a covered BGE (100-120°F internal when covered) has little moisture available to freeze. Moisture is only from the meal and this is gone long before the Egg cools to these temps. The higher the air temperature, the less moisture the air can hold. The Egg actually cools down and is quite dry.[p]I have no problem at all with precautions. I do feel you will not have freezing problems when covering your Egg when it is in the 100-120°F range. [p]Best to you and yours,
    Spin[p]

  • SpinSpin Posts: 1,375
    Cornfed,[p]I like your style as it represents a good attitude and understanding of using your cooking equipment.[p]Preparation is part of everything we do. To start unprepared is to not start :-).[p]Thanks,
    Spin

  • SpinSpin Posts: 1,375
    Tim M,[p]I have new gaskets for both the large and small. Just waiting to feel the need that they really should be changed. I will change them when I either have problems with temp control or can no longer make smoke wisp out of the bottom vent when smoking the meal early in the cook.[p]Spin

  • SpinSpin Posts: 1,375
    Spin,[p]My apologies. The lower the air temperature, the less moisture it can hold (not higher).[p]Spin
  • Anthony,[p]I use a doubled piece of cardboard at the front of my cooker to keep a small gap so my cooker doesn't freeze shut which probably works the same as your metal strip. I usually put it in place after I am sure the fire is out. If I forget to put this spacer in, my cooker will freeze shut and usually the bottom vent will also be frozen shut. Another step I take is to be sure to put a grate in the cooker before I shut it down so if I don't get back outside to put my spacer in, it will make for a much easier thaw out job. Three rolled up newspaper pushed thru the top vent and down on the grate plus one more lit and pushed thru the top vent will usually thaw it out. With the cooking grate left in the cooker, all the newspaper ash will stay on top of this grate. My cooker has probably been frozen shut about 8-10 times this Winter as I forget or don't want to go back outside to put my spacer in the cooker.[p]The felt strips are nice but act like a "wick". They really suck moisture from the outside from frost, rain, snow, and probably even from the air on a humid day. If I have forget to put my spacer in and go out in the morning and find a heavy frost on the cooker, I just know it will be frozen shut. If it is not frozen shut at this time, as the temp comes up and the sun comes out, the frost will melt and run down on the felt and the lower track of the bottom vent and freeze it shut. Remember, felt sucks!![p]Like most folks, I do own a cover for my Egg. To me, it's a real pia to use as my cooker is used about 5-6 days out of the week in the cold weather. [p]Probably won't work for you but if I am doing back to back low and slow cooks, I just leave the fire in the cooker overnight. It is nice to go out at 2:00am and drop in 25-30 pounds of meat into a hot cooker with maybe an outside temp of 5 degrees. Works for me!![p]Old Dave

  • Cornfed,[p]Minnesota is not New Jersey!!!![p]Anthony
  • Old Dave,[p]Thanks so much for your good suggestions. This is a post I will copy for reference next December/January.[p]Anthony

  • CornfedCornfed Posts: 1,324
    Anthony Up North,[p]No disputing that! That's why I made sure to qualify where I'm coming from. I'm sure what I consider blistering cold is often shrugged off as slightly chilly by some from Minnesota.[p]Either way you do it, preventing the freeze by the metal method or dealing with freezes with fire cubes, as long as the end result is good BGE'd food you win.[p]Cornfed
  • Char-WoodyChar-Woody Posts: 2,642
    Anthony Up North, since your going to keep this thread in a print-out, I will toss in my two cents worth for the record. I hate to be left out of these discussion groups.
    :-)
    For the record-->(2 cent's)
    All in fun my friend, and I have to agree. Minnesota and Michigan is where Winter really abides. Brrrrrrrrrrr.
    Cheers to ya..C~W

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