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Flame Boss 200 HELP....
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corey24
Posts: 386
Just got in my new flame boss today and I've hooked it up for a test run. No meat just to get used to temp and controls. Set pit at 225, it's been running about an hour now and it's at 270 and hasn't stopped climbing. What gives? I thought it would cool down or heat up if needed.
I'm doing an all night brisket for Christmas eve. That's why I bought the controller. Can't be cooking at these high temps.
I'm doing an all night brisket for Christmas eve. That's why I bought the controller. Can't be cooking at these high temps.
XL Egg Owner Since Dec 2013 - Louisiana
Comments
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Is the fan still running?
All pit controllers can do is add air. You need to make sure your exhaust is almost completely closed. You want the FB to have to run with ~30% duty cycle.
If you have air gaps in the inlet, gasket, or the exhaust to far open you will have over shoot.A bison’s level of aggressiveness, both physical and passive, is legendary. - NPS -
Exhaust?
I don't have gasket leak. Fan runs on and off. Pulsing guess you would say. Seems like it would not run at ask if temp has over shotXL Egg Owner Since Dec 2013 - Louisiana
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Process I use:
1. Fill up lump.
2. Light lump in one area.
3. Put fan on inlet and close top.
4. Almost completely close top vent. On a smokeware cap I have less than about 1/2 credit card width.
5. Set temp to 30 degrees below target. After temp settles bump up to final temp.
I prep my meat between steps 4 and 5.
By that time my smoke has cleared and I am sure everything is under control. I have left my exhaust open 1/2" before and my temp overshot by 80degrees. Closed the exhaust and it eventually settled.A bison’s level of aggressiveness, both physical and passive, is legendary. - NPS -
I have daisy open as least add possible.
What do you mean by exhaust?XL Egg Owner Since Dec 2013 - Louisiana
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Temp controllers have a tough time keeping the temp down on a something as efficient as the BGE.
Best way to combat this is to set it up the exact same way as you would WITHOUT a temp controller. Your ideal scenario is that it never kicks on once.
If you fire up the egg and put the controller on it right away, the fan is going to be running non-stop trying to get the pit up to 225F. The ceramic is cool and acts as a huge heat sink. You have a ripping fireball in the firebox and when the ceramic hits 225 that fireball keeps going on very little air. Best thing to do it let it stabilize first before turning on the controller, OR set it 170F, then bump to 190F, 210F, etc. -
corey24 said:Exhaust?
I don't have gasket leak. Fan runs on and off. Pulsing guess you would say. Seems like it would not run at ask if temp has over shot
Fan should have to run at about 30% to keep the temp. If fan stops you want the fire to die down and temps drop. That is a slow process.A bison’s level of aggressiveness, both physical and passive, is legendary. - NPS -
PM sentA bison’s level of aggressiveness, both physical and passive, is legendary. - NPS
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Down to 247 now. Seems to be on fall. Maybe it's learning my cooker.
Is it capable of keeping egg at 225. Best I can do manually is 235-240XL Egg Owner Since Dec 2013 - Louisiana
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Yup, 225 is no problem. Key is not to overshoot on initial fire up. Lowest I have personally tried is 210 on my XL. No problems.
My medium I have never tried below 235.
Make sure your daisy wheel is almost totally shut.A bison’s level of aggressiveness, both physical and passive, is legendary. - NPS -
Just talked to Ozzie _Issac and he helped me out a lot. Super nice guy. So great to have guys like this on the forum.
Thanks again brother!!!XL Egg Owner Since Dec 2013 - Louisiana
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Anytime! Glad I could help.A bison’s level of aggressiveness, both physical and passive, is legendary. - NPS
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I updated firmware when I got mine. Could be a possibility
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Update: back down to 225. Fan starting to kick in again. Let's see if it holds!
XL Egg Owner Since Dec 2013 - Louisiana
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Update: back To 235. Doesn't seem to take much fan to raise temp.
Not sure how close this will keep you to set temp? 5-10 degrees?XL Egg Owner Since Dec 2013 - Louisiana
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Try your set temp at 215 and see what happens. Also try closing your daisy wheel completely.
It holds my temps within +/- 3 degrees without much issue, but don't get hung up on that. If I'm within 15 degrees I don't really worry.
Can you post a pic of your fan arraingment? I push the fan adapter as far left as I can and pull my lower screen and door over the adapter. This seals everything well.A bison’s level of aggressiveness, both physical and passive, is legendary. - NPS -
My experience has been slightly different than @stlcharcoal expresses. I throw the FB200 on as the electric starter is removed from the lump. In the graph below I let the size of the fire get too big, which caused the overshoot during the start-up. As @Ozzie_Isaac suggested, you can set the temp controller 25 or 30 degrees below target temp at start-up help prevent over target start-ups. The sharp dip at 4:00am was when the butt when on the grill. Notice that the lid wasn't opened for the next 12.5 hrs. I adjust the top vent (ugly daisy or Smokeware cap) within the range from slightly closed to slightly open ... it will be different for different eggs.
Electronic controllers (with one exception that I'm aware of) can only blow air into the egg to increase the temperature. They CANNOT reduce the temperature. The only thing that can cause the temperature to go down is the top vent. The ideal setting for me has been to set the top vent such that it will cause the temperature to drop below target temp when the fan doesn't run. Notice two things: 1) the pit temp (red curve) keeps bouncing along the bottom of the target temp line (blue) curve 2) the fan is running approximately 20 to 30% of the time. This is the setting that works the best for me ... and, is achieved by playing with the top vent setting ... and, is different for my two eggs.
Hopefully Ozzie_Isaac has explained this over the phone and you have it figured out already.
Washington, IL > Queen Creek, AZ ... Two large eggs and an adopted Mini Max
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Keep in mind, you don't have a huge hunk of meat in their sucking up the heat. No evaporation from the moisture in the meat or the drip pan. There's going to be more wild temp swings without that "buffer".
Also, where is the pit probe? As the fire moves around the firebox, the probe could be exposed to direct heat or be far from the fire. I always put it over the plate setter let, at least one inch from the meat and one inch from the dome. The grate temp will never be equal to the dome temp either.
Don't get to into the temps......it's going to fluctuate under that dome a LOT more than what you are seeing. It's a 3000 y/o design of cooker--doesn't matter how much computerized stuff you strap to it, it's not going to run like a convection oven or an autoclave. If it's within 20-30F, that's fine for me--because it's only a representation of that one square inch under the dome. -
Also, do you have a felt gasket around your daisy wheel? Some older eggs have no gaskets and get more air leaks.A bison’s level of aggressiveness, both physical and passive, is legendary. - NPS
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babalabashabalaba said:I updated firmware when I got mine. Could be a possibility
Washington, IL > Queen Creek, AZ ... Two large eggs and an adopted Mini Max
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Jeepster47 said:babalabashabalaba said:I updated firmware when I got mine. Could be a possibilityA bison’s level of aggressiveness, both physical and passive, is legendary. - NPS
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@corey24 any luck?A bison’s level of aggressiveness, both physical and passive, is legendary. - NPS
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Yes. Just shut it off. Once it went back down to 225 the temp never exceeded 235 again. Mostly stayed around 230. I consider that a success. I also agree that a huge piece of meat will help stabilize things a bit.
Thanks guys for everything and when I do overnight brisket cook in a couple of days I will update you again.XL Egg Owner Since Dec 2013 - Louisiana
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Keep in mind that even high end ovens fluctuate temps much more than that. No worries.
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