Welcome to the EGGhead Forum - a great place to visit and packed with tips and EGGspert advice! You can also join the conversation and get more information and amazing kamado recipes by following Big Green Egg to Experience our World of Flavor™ at:
Facebook  |  Twitter  |  Instagram  |  Pinterest  |  Youtube  |  Vimeo
Share your photos by tagging us and using the hashtag #BigGreenEgg.

Want to see how the EGG is made? Click to Watch

OT - Building a fire pit - any advice?

Options

With fall around the corner and needing a project this weekend, I decided it was time to build a fire pit in my yard.  It seems pretty simple (build a ring, light a fire) but I thought I would see if anyone has built one before and see what you would do differently.  I want it to be sturdy so I was thinking of using mortar between the rocks.  Is this a good or bad idea?  Any overall advice for those of you that have built a permanent fire pit?<?xml:namespace prefix = "o" ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

 

I have included three pictures.  The first shows an overall view of my yard (with a red x where the pit will go), the second is a closer shot and the third are the large rocks I plan to use.  And yes, it is going under the crappy walnut tree as that is likely coming down soon and the stump will be used as a seat for the pit.  The tree looks ok in the pictures but years of heavy sring snow have destroyed the branches. 

 

Thanks all!  Happy holiday weekend!

Comments

  • busmania
    busmania Posts: 414
    Options
  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 25,897
    Options
    The need for drainage is often forgotten in our area where the soil is heavy clay with little true top soil. There are several ways of achieving that but if you get a lot of rain consider buried drainage tile which is easier done now rather than as an "oops fix" later!
    Re-gasketing America one yard at a time.
  • busmania
    busmania Posts: 414
    Options
    Hm, good point RRP.  I don't think that will be an issue here (Denver front range) but maybe Ill lay a foot or so of sand under since sand drains well.  good or bad idea?  we see moisture followed by dry out periods here in Denver.  Rarely have constant rain and when we do, I don't have any drainage issues around the property.
  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 25,897
    edited August 2014
    Options
    Then a good base of sand is all you would need. My yard was virgin timber until we built and as I said the soil is heavy clay. In fact when basements are dug here perimeter drainage is critical, plus contractors won't dig basements in rainy months as the hole becomes a pond!
    Re-gasketing America one yard at a time.
  • Legume
    Legume Posts: 14,627
    Options
    we have one in our yard that's built from firebrick on the inside, faced and capped with limestone on the outside/top, also has a floor of firebrick.  three things I've learned from this:

    1) short sections of pvc pipe were inserted at the bottom when it was built to create gaps to let air in the bottom which works well (remove the pipe when it's done or it will melt and clog the gaps)

    2) if you plan on using something to keep the fire off the bottom - log grate or something like that - know what it is ahead of time and build with that in mind

    3) don't go too high with the sides or you'll never feel the fire - we went too high and I've had to add layers of fire brick to the bottom to build it up
  • Maccool
    Maccool Posts: 191
    Options
    I'd be more inclined to use pea rock, maybe even class 5 for the base, rather than sand.
  • Hankyorke
    Hankyorke Posts: 146
    Options
    Mine is 42" inner diameter. 6" below soil level & 12" above. I added air flow gaps but because of the ID and low height, I don't think they were necessary.
    I used pea gravel for drainage and it works just fine. I live in Clay Township (yes because of the soil).

    LBGE

    BTFU!

  • Maccool
    Maccool Posts: 191
    Options
    Neighbor a couple of doors down used pea rock with some buried black pipe running about 20 feet to a propane cylinder. Self-lighting outdoor fireplace.
  • grege345
    grege345 Posts: 3,515
    Options
    My future fire pit will be gas
    LBGE& SBGE———————————————•———————– Pennsylvania / poconos

  • Thatgrimguy
    Thatgrimguy Posts: 4,729
    Options
    Don't build it too high, if you do leave air pockets to warm your feet and to let the fire breathe.  I have built 4 total.  One dug down, one out of those lanscape border blocks you see at home depot and two from free form rocks like you have.  There really is no trick to it, everyone I built was different but worked.  @RRP makes a great point about drainage, but airflow holes fix that.
    XL, Small, Mini & Mini Max Green Egg, Shirley Fab Trailer, 6 gal and 2.5 gal Cajun Fryers, BlueStar 60" Range, 48" Lonestar Grillz Santa Maria, Alto Shaam 1200s, Gozney Dome, Gateway 55g Drum
  • Wolfpack
    Wolfpack Posts: 3,551
    Options
    Just a thought- they sell kits that have fire block for the base and "stones" that form into a circle. I like this system as the "stones" have a flat surface which people can sit or place a leg on. My neighbor put one in a couple years ago and it really works well- think he paid $400 for everything. He didn't use mortar and it's very stable- we have had some serious bonfires without issue.
    Greensboro, NC
  • logsend
    logsend Posts: 17
    Options
    Just finished mine.
    Highland, MD  Egg Family: 1 Large, 1 Medium.
  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 25,897
    Options
    logsend said:
    Just finished mine.

    THAT design is SUPER cool! Thank you for sharing!!!
    Re-gasketing America one yard at a time.
  • tybenj
    tybenj Posts: 58
    Options
    I just put one in for a customer last week and what we normally do is have an 8" piece of steel rolled into a hoop and welded together in whatever diameter you like (we usually go 36-40") and put clay pavers in the inside of the ring for a bottom to make it not only look nice, but it makes for very easy cleanup. after putting in quite a few of these, my biggest tip is to dig out a much larger area than needed and lay the bricks for the bottom of the ring much larger than needed and just set the ring on top of the brick pad rather than trying to cut the bricks to fit inside of the ring. this makes for a much cleaner look and it is much easier to prep your sub grade and final height of the fire ring when it is all exposed. I have also cut a few of these rings into paver and flagstone patios, if you want any pictures Im sure I can find some.