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Gasket removal question
TonyA
Posts: 583
Anyone ever consider hitting the residue with a torch after scraping as opposed to the acetone?
Comments
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I recently changed the gasket on my small Ordered the Rutland, but as fate would have it, the replacement from the mothership arrived first so I put it on. After I scraped the the last cinders of the gasket off, I wish I had the paint stripper wheel. Oh well, tried to get off as much as i could with isopropyl alcohol then applied the gasket. If it doesn't last then i'll just apply the Rutland, but the gasket looks like it went on ok.#1 LBGE December 2012 • #2 SBGE February 2013 • #3 Mini May 2013A happy BGE family in Houston, TX.
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I never opened the "Scouring Stick", the 3M Stripper removed the stubborn areas right down to bare ceramic surface. The factory gasket was GONE completely, the "stubborn" areas was burnt adhiesive from the original gasket. Prep work was done in less than an hour.
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+1Charlie tuna said:I never opened the "Scouring Stick", the 3M Stripper removed the stubborn areas right down to bare ceramic surface. The factory gasket was GONE completely, the "stubborn" areas was burnt adhiesive from the original gasket. Prep work was done in less than an hour.
I didn't buy the scouring stick. The 3M wheel did a great job getting everything off so I didn't see a need to run to the store to get a stick. I also didn't remove my domes.Just a hack that makes some $hitty BBQ.... -
I used the paint stripper only. No need for acetone or any nasty remover like that.Packerland, Wisconsin
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I did mine while the egg was warm. The gasket pulled right off. The tough spots came off with a putty knife.
After I used fine sandpaper and sanded smooth as a baby bottom. Just make sure you remove all the dust with a damp rag.Bx - > NJ ->TX!!!All to get cheaper brisket!
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